eulogious Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 So today I decided to go out and try to find why recently I have been smelling antifreeze when my vents blow, so I topped off my radiator and went for a drive. Well, when I got back, my passenger side was flood with coolant, so I think that it's heater core replacement time Damnit. I just got the car, oh well. I then immediately jumped on here and searched for a how to or something like that. I got this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27537&highlight=EA82+Heater+core Sweet, a how to. Half the problem solved. So then it was off to find a heater core. I want to get a new one because I am going to be keeping the car a while, so I want to replace hard to replace stuff with new. This is what I have found. I found one at thepartsbin.com: http://www.thepartsbin.com/repsite/subaru~heater_core~reparts.html There are a couple of options, but it looks like the any of the ones that are 7-1/4 x 5-1/2" x 2", Inlet Size Of 5/8", Outlet Size Of 5/8 will fit. Am I correct? I haven't been able to find an exact one for a 1990 loyale turbo wagon, but it looks like all the other ea82's take this same size. I then headed over to ebay to see what was there. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280412305759&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33548 I then found out that the demensions are the same as the others ones, so would this one fit? It's half the price, so it seems like a good deal, but I don't know. So my questions are these: 1. Am I correct about replacing the heater core? Sounds like it but I am not sure. 2. Is 7-1/4 x 5-1/2" x 2", Inlet Size Of 5/8", Outlet Size Of 5/8 the correct size for my 1990 loyale turbo, and will the one from ebay work for me? 3. Has anyone had any luck with ordering one off of ebay, or should I spend the extra $30 for the other one from thepartbin? I think that just about does it. Thanks in advance for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobaru Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) a little closer and if it dont fit or work ............well you know http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PCE&MfrPartNumber=399340 the size is a misprint no way is that right ebay and internet stores suck......... 10 days out they send wrong part 25 days out, broken part 40 days out Edited November 12, 2009 by bobaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 a little closer and if it dont fit or work ............well you know http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PCE&MfrPartNumber=399340 the size is a misprint no way is that right ebay and internet stores suck......... 10 days out they send wrong part 25 days out, broken part 40 days out This is true, it looks like that is the correct size anyways. That's what I was really curious about. I will probably go through schmucks just because it's close. Maybe napa, they always tend to have better quality stuff. I will call tomorrow see what they say. So I figured since I have the dash out, I should replace all the instrument panel lights, that way I won't have to worry about them going out. So with that in mind, I also want to get LEDs to replace them, that way they would never burn out I found these that are drop in replacements for type 74 instrument lights: http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/74-x.html Different available instrument lights... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html To add another question now... Are these the correct instrument lights? #74 was the part for the light that I found. Also, if I get these, should I get the HP (high power, 6 lumes) ones, or the normal (2 lumens) ones? I always tend to go with brighter must be better, but I don't know if it would be too bright and overpower stuff, meaning that I would have to turn them down, but turning it down also dims everything else that isn't as bright, therefore possibly making everything else super dim and unusable. so has anybody used LED's in this manner before? Maybe I will just order a set of both and then return the other set or just keep it... it's only $20 at the most What do you all think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Ok so one more question for those who have taken the instrument panel out, to make the light green is there a green translucent cap over a white light, or is it a green light? I was thinking about rocking some red led lights to change up the instrument lights. Then it would match my kenwood deck, not to mention be badass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truckerman666 Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 On my 87 there is a green plastic cap over the light bulb. I removed them to make a brighter white light in the dash. It is now a lot easier to read at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 On my 87 there is a green plastic cap over the light bulb. I removed them to make a brighter white light in the dash. It is now a lot easier to read at night. That's what I was hoping for now I can choose my color for the dash lights At least something cool will happen because of this, of course other than the fact it won't leak or smell of antifreeze anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiekid Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Just a fyi, I never pull the cluster out of the dash or pull the entire dash when doing a heater core in these cars. There is enough room to unbolt the dash without removing much of anything from it and pull the heater box out the passenger side. You just need to be able to get to the bolts on the very top of the heater box holding it to the firewall. Just though I would throw that in here, may save you hours of un-needed work. On the other hand, if you going to mess with the dash lights, when you remove the bezel around the cluster pop the "off and defrost" buttons out and unscrew the heater controls same with the fan switch (pop the knob off and unscrew the switch). On the driver side of the cluster, you can get your hand in there and unplug the connectors. I don't know if you have had one of these dash boards apart but knowing how they come apart really helps. Over the years and various subaru's..... been there, broke that! LOL! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Just a fyi, I never pull the cluster out of the dash or pull the entire dash when doing a heater core in these cars. There is enough room to unbolt the dash without removing much of anything from it and pull the heater box out the passenger side. You just need to be able to get to the bolts on the very top of the heater box holding it to the firewall. Just though I would throw that in here, may save you hours of un-needed work. On the other hand, if you going to mess with the dash lights, when you remove the bezel around the cluster pop the "off and defrost" buttons out and unscrew the heater controls same with the fan switch (pop the knob off and unscrew the switch). On the driver side of the cluster, you can get your hand in there and unplug the connectors. I don't know if you have had one of these dash boards apart but knowing how they come apart really helps. Over the years and various subaru's..... been there, broke that! LOL! Scott Hehe, ya I have taken it apart a little bit to install some LED's for a mod I did, and I also installed an aftermarket LED map light and a switch right next to the fan control knob, so I have taken it apart that much. This weekend I am going to go to the junkyard and take a part the dash there and put it back together so I have some experience working on a car I don't care about That way it should be quicker the second time and save me time and energy, and hopefully I won't break anything on mine At the junk yard now, there is a car that was recently taken apart for the heater core, so the dash is completely apart, so I will look at that and use that for a reference. I think I can also locate the bolts that you are talking about on the car that's apart, that way I know right where to look. Thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Hello all, So here's the deal. The car is a 1990 Loyale T-Wagon. I have replaced my heater core to get rid of antifreeze leaking into my passenger compartment. So after serveral hours, I got the heater core out,replaced it, refilled the system, and now I have more leaks, but at least not on the inside of the car The first one I found was on the turbo cooling outlet. The hose clamp was loose, so I tightened it up and solved that leak, but I still have another leak that I cannot find. It's coming from the turbo side of the motor, but I can't see any leak at all. I have tightened up all the cooling hose clamps that I could find, but I still have a leak. The antifreeze seems to be pooling up on top of the engine, and then trickling down and leaking out the bottom, and seems to only leak when under boost? Seems weird, but driving it around really nicely, it doesn't seen to leak anything. But when I get on it, it starts to leak :-\ I have been driving this car around since September and for the last 10,000 miles, I have not had a problem. The only time this leak came up was after I fixed my heater core, and filled the system, it's started to leak. I was afraid of this. Since the system has never been fully pressurized, I was afraid something else might come up :-\ So what should I look at? I am completely stumped on this one. I have tried to narrow this down over that last two days, so any help would be great! I just hope that it's nothing serious. I am trying to get my car ready to go over the mountains this weekend, but as of now I don't trust it to get me over the mountains. HELP!!! Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Ok, so I finally got the heater core replaced! It was good times to replace it :-\ Thanks for all the tips and the write ups! It took about 6 hours and that included sitting down for easter dinner So it wasn't that bad. Kinda of, I guess. Now I have another problem, more leaks now that the system is full :-\ Sad times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Turbo's are prone to cooling system failure - the added heat of the turbo insures they work extra hard. If I were you I would march straight down to the dealer and order all the hoses in the cooling system plus ask them for a photo-copy of the diagrams on the parts book showing where theh go. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Turbo's are prone to cooling system failure - the added heat of the turbo insures they work extra hard. If I were you I would march straight down to the dealer and order all the hoses in the cooling system plus ask them for a photo-copy of the diagrams on the parts book showing where theh go. GD I take it then that it's probably just the hoses? I have an 88 FSM that has my car and I looked at all those hoses and they don't seem to be leaking/bad (I have checked...), but I also am not very experienced with cars in general so ya, but I am trying to learn I guess I am afraid that a gasket blew, or something broke that is not a hose and something else is going on with it... That's my biggest fear. Do you have to remove the turbo to replace all the hoses? I am planning on replacing all the hoses, but am I just trying to figure out if there is something else that I should be worried about, that and funds are low so I don't have the $150 or so I will need for all the hoses, so I am trying to figure out what exactly is wrong so that the leak stops and I can drive it, and then I can replace all the hoses. Good idea to ask the dealer ship for a photo copy of the parts location. Thanks for that, I will do that for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Well - it's possible that you could have a blown intake manifold gasket - coolant runs through the intake manifold from the heads to the thermostat housing and then to the radiator. Look at the seam between the manifold and the heads - see if it's wet or green looking around there. I know a lot of the hoses on the turbo's are hard to get at - the coolant line below the turbo is a very troublesome little number. But as I don't own any of the EA82T's and haven't for quite some time - someone else would be better to comment on the specific hoses that might be causing you trouble. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 EA82T Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I had a similar problem about a month ago where I was seeing coolant on the top of the engine on the turbo side near the throttle body. I couldn't see anything when it was idling but it would only leak when the motor was rev'ed up. I had my wife rev it up while I watched the coolant spray the spare tire... Check the following lines: 1) 1/2" rubber coolant line that goes to the turbo that is on the top of the engine on the turbo side next to the throttle body 2) 1/4" rubber coolant line that is the preheat line for the throttle body that comes off the intake manifold On a side note, my operators manual says that the turbo model is a high performance car and that you should let it idle for a minute before turning the motor off to let the turbo cool down... Hopefully you just have to replace a hose and not the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 (edited) I see my threads were combined... I was really confused for a min. there. Anyways... I haven't really had any motivation to fix Mr. Roo, that and I put him in time out for pissing on everything :-\ Stupid car. Hopefully in the next few days I will care enough to do something about this leak Well - it's possible that you could have a blown intake manifold gasket - coolant runs through the intake manifold from the heads to the thermostat housing and then to the radiator. Look at the seam between the manifold and the heads - see if it's wet or green looking around there. I know a lot of the hoses on the turbo's are hard to get at - the coolant line below the turbo is a very troublesome little number. But as I don't own any of the EA82T's and haven't for quite some time - someone else would be better to comment on the specific hoses that might be causing you trouble. GD I don't think the intake manifold is blown since the coolant is pooling up on top of the manifold, so I think it would be difficult for it to run upwards to pool on top of it's self. So that's good. I was just really afraid of something else being blown, but if blown hoses are all that can really go wrong, then I will start replacing hoses and hope for the best... I see that hose on the bottom of the turbo, what a PITA. It was already difficult to tighten the damn hose clamp on it, so replacing it should be fun :-\ I had a similar problem about a month ago where I was seeing coolant on the top of the engine on the turbo side near the throttle body. I couldn't see anything when it was idling but it would only leak when the motor was rev'ed up. I had my wife rev it up while I watched the coolant spray the spare tire... Check the following lines: 1) 1/2" rubber coolant line that goes to the turbo that is on the top of the engine on the turbo side next to the throttle body 2) 1/4" rubber coolant line that is the preheat line for the throttle body that comes off the intake manifold On a side note, my operators manual says that the turbo model is a high performance car and that you should let it idle for a minute before turning the motor off to let the turbo cool down... Hopefully you just have to replace a hose and not the turbo. I am not worried about the turbo cooling down, this turbo is oil AND water cooled. That's pretty rare for a turbo, and this is one small turbo as well. I highly doubt that I "cooked" my turbo, even if it wasn't getting water to it, the oil should be plenty to cool it. So I don't think the turbo it's self is to blame. Ya, I see those hoses you are talking about. I think that I will replace them since they seem easy to replace and they are right on top of the intake which is where the coolant is pooling, so it would make sense to replace them. It can't hurt it anyways. I have tried just revving the engine with it running with me standing outside the car, and I can't seem anything spraying anywhere obvious, so I will have to try something else to try to narrow down this leak if replacing those hoses doesn't work. Thanks for the tips! Anyone else got any ideas for me to try in the mean time? Edited April 8, 2010 by eulogious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 88 EA82T: What did you use to replace those two lines? It looks like just generic 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch coolant line should work. Just cut to fit. Doesn't look like there is anything special about it. I think I am going to replace those tomorrow morning just to see what happens. I will grab some new hose clamps as well, so that will narrow down my leak, if I still have it after replacing those hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 EA82T Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I just used generic 1/4" and 1/2" coolant line. Just the stuff you buy by the foot. Good luck and post again if you fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 I just used generic 1/4" and 1/2" coolant line. Just the stuff you buy by the foot. Good luck and post again if you fix it. Sweet, that's what I thought. I think I am going to head to the parts store here shortly so I will find out soon if I have bigger problems or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 After tightening all my hose clamps again, my leak went away. I think it was coming from the turbo outlet cooling hose, because that one had a few turns left in it I checked and tightened those earlier too. Oh well. I have new hose clamps that I am going to put on there, but as of now I am not leaking any more antifreeze! Glad that it was something simple. I am going to replace all my hoses but not until next weekend. I am just glad that I am not leaking anymore, what a relief! Thanks all for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) Ok, so now I have yet another problem. It's not leaking anymore, but it's getting hotter than it has in the past. It's getting up to the halfway mark, but not any higher, but that's hotter than it's ever run before, and that was before I fixed my coolant system Before I replaced my heater core, the temp would sit about an 1/8 to a little more than 1/4 of the way up the gauge, not halfway. So I am thinking that this is most likely an air bubble? If it's not an air bubble, anyone got any other ideas on what it might be? Also what's the easy way to bleed the system if it is an air bubble? I have never had to bleed a coolant system before... Thanks all! Edit: Link I found to bleeding the system: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45849&highlight=bleed+cooling Is this the easiest way to do it? Edited April 13, 2010 by eulogious Linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) Update: On my break at work, I went into our parking garage and parked the car on an incline, took the rad cap off, and let the engine warm up. The radiator was higher than the heater core I believe. The incline I was parked on was about 45 degrees or so. Well, nothing changed. I let the car warm up and the temp went to right above the half way point and stayed there. I sat there for about an 1/2 hour, and then took it on a short drive. It got a little hotter on the drive, but it wasn't near the red. I then parked to see if it would cool down, and the temp stayed the same. I must have an air bubble, but a simple park it and let it warm up on an incline didn't help or burp it. Did I do that right? I didn't have the resources or the time to try anything else on my break, so what should I try next? I am kinda at a loss :-\ Thanks! Edited April 13, 2010 by eulogious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Today on my way to work, the car almost overheated I did not get into the red, I pulled over and let it cool down, but I turned around and took him home :-\ What's the easiest way to get rid of this air bubble? Should I just drain and fill it? I really don't have the money to do that, but if that's going to be the only way I can get rid of this bubble... Is this the best way to drain and fill? It's for an EJ, so does it apply to EA's? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 I feel dumb One of the main reasons it over heating was because it was missing about 3/4 of a gallon of fluid. I thought that "reserve" bottle would drain if the car needed water, but apparently I was wrong. The reserve tank was full, but the rad was basically empty :-\ I also managed to find my actual leak this time, at least I HOPE this is the last thing I have to deal with. It was the line that goes from the under intake to the AAV. What a PITA that sucker is. How are you supposed to get a hose clamp on that thing without taking the intake off? Seriously, I had to rip the hose off, and then use a pair of pliers to pull the hose clamp off. Luckily it was one of the hose clamps that has two "rings" around it, so it pulled off easily, but now I can't get a new hose clamp on it. Well, I can get the hose clamp on it, I just can't tighten it. I ended up using a couple zip ties, because that's the only way I can get anything to be tight in that spot. I know, I know, zip ties are not ideal at all, but what else am I supposed to do beside remove the intake? I really don't want to do that at all :-\ I will post pictures in a bit to show what I am talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Welcome to the world of the EA82T owner Angled tip pliers really help out a lot. A pair of 45* and a pair of 90* are very helpful for weird hose locations. Spring clamps rather than screw clamps are best for hoses like that. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 Welcome to the world of the EA82T owner Angled tip pliers really help out a lot. A pair of 45* and a pair of 90* are very helpful for weird hose locations. Spring clamps rather than screw clamps are best for hoses like that. GD Ya, the only way I got that screw clamp off was with angled tip pliers. I thought that there should be some sort of other clamp to use, I will look into getting a spring clamp and using that instead of zip ties Good ole zip ties came through in a pinch though for sure! I would honestly say that so far the ea82t hasn't been THAT bad for me. I think that I am one of the lucky few that has an ea82t that was well taken care of and treated properly. Other than this coolant leak, the damn thing just runs and doesn't leak a drop so I can't complain at all. I love this car! It has it's few quirks, but so far I actually like this motor. Yes, a pain to work on, but hey, I guess if I can fix an ea82t, then I can fix almost any subaru! At least I keep telling myself that Don't get me wrong, as soon as the ea82t starts giving me trouble, I will be calling you GD to help me with my EJ swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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