Kwhistle Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Ok, I did something really stupid. And I'm sure gonna get an earful about it tomorrow morning. So was trying to replace tranny filter, drained the fluid (the damn thing was almost black from the previous owner), took out all the bolts, and the damn thing just wouldn't come off. Quick internet search came up with somebody saying you can do it by "gently" hammering a screwdriver in there to loosen the pan. I was stupid enough to do it. The pan still haven't come off, but now there is a leak. Had to just put the bolts back on because it was getting late and I was just super tired and it was family dinner time. Whomever was fixing it before used red liquid gasket, and that thing is stuck there as if that was red thread sealer. Anyway, hope to fix that tomorrow, but would really appreciate any advice on how to get it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Pry it off slowly, scrape off old sealant, replace with either a new gasket from the dealer or RTV it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwhistle Posted December 25, 2009 Author Share Posted December 25, 2009 What to do you use to pry it off? Can I try and get a putty chizel in there or would that be too much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 I use a putty knife to separate the trans from the engine. Dont see why it would'nt work removing the a.t. trans pan. It's the thinnest thing you can get in there and less likely to gauge the alu. If you really want to do this with precaution, use two putty knives. Insert one, insert the other using the first blade as an entry path and then gently tap a screwdriver in between. Works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Sorry to hear about your problem. I learned my lesson on dropping the AT pan, when I had a 91 Leggie. I found it a waste of time. There is only a fine wire mesh screen, like you see on some drip style coffee makers. The screen was clean, with no metal shavings, and no gunk. So, there was no reason to change the mesh screen. On reassemble of pan, I had a minor leak. Others have said the same thing, that it is not worth the effort to drop the pan to change the internal filter. IMO, you would have been better off to just change the external filter only, when changing the AT fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwhistle Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 Yeah, I learned that the hard way... gonna get some putty knives at the local megahardware tomorrow morning, and hopefully fix it up. So there is also an external filter or is that some sort of a mod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 So there is also an external filter or is that some sort of a mod? Starting with 1999 models with A/T, Subaru transmissions came from the factory with screw on filters for the A/T. Be sure to get a replacement filter that is designed for A/T application. It cost about $35. It looks the same as the oil filter that fits a Subie motor, but it is not the same. Don't be tempted to use an oil filter as a replacement. The internal filtering media is not the same. Merry Christmas, Larry (Rooster2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leadfootracin Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 early legacys have a trans filter retroed by the left front valve cover, almost looks like a fuel filter, can be bought at the dealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwhistle Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 After having at it, I gotta say that for a long time I'll be cursing the day I decided to do this. Used a simple narrow and stiff putty knife today, it went in with no problem, cut right through the gasket... now the fun part. Wanted to change the tranny filter, a.k.a. oil strainer, but no such luck, since it's held by the cooling fluid pipe, and I didn't want to mess with that. The old one had some shavings on the screen, but not terribly many, so I just let this one go. Cleaned everything up, put dressing on the gasket, started tightening the bolts, torque to 0.5 m-kg like it says in the book... then 4 bolts just break off. Managed to pull 3 of them out, but the drill bit broke on the last one when I was drilling that hole in the middle. The bit went bat************, and so did the broken screw inside the hole. And I can't even access it half-way without taking the front cat converter off, which is way too much for me. Think I'll drill though that bolt/hole tomorrow and put in a bolt with nut/locking washer on the other side, with some blue threadlocker. Hopefully that will work, and I won't have to get the thing towed to where they'll charge me some insane money to take out the tranny and re-thread that one hole. Anyways, thanks everyone for you suggestions. Hopefully this will be all done by tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 As long as you got the sealer on, it should be OK to be missing one bolt. If it were a gasket then you'd have reason to be concerned, but with silicone sealer it's not such a big deal because it will dry to fill the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.