SuperRallyRoo Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 And I did do a search on threads about it and couldn't find anyone complaining that it made their front CV's click under acceleration... I had this problem. Also another note is that the rear struts were an extreme pita to line up without taking the swaybar off and lowering the car onto a jackstand (is that normal?) My axles are brand new subaru axles as of about a week ago. It seems as if the axles need to be longer. I have read on here that you don't need anything else to lift these cars other then the struts. But it seems to me like I may need the outback antilift kit or maybe longer axles? The angle of the axle doesn't appear to me to be to extreme but they may just be stretched more. If anyone knows whats going on please let me know what I gotta do to fix this problem. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I know kelly (can't remember his screen name though...) had issues with his axles. We put complete Outback strut assemblies (struts and springs) on my dad's '94 about a year ago. he's driven it a lot since then, numerous trips to colorado, etc. zero problems. also, yes. disconnecting the sway bar is very common to get struts bolted up. ESPECIALLY if they're a different length. shouldn't have to put it on jackstands (although you should) as long as you're not jacking on a suspension link or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have forester struts on my '92 leggy sedan and I don't have any issues with axles but I as well had to disconnect the sway bar to get them shoe horned in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpty Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have 96 O/B struts on my gen1 (s2) legacy with new King springs (std height). No problems. Coincidental the cvs have started clicking? And yes, the rears were interesting to put in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperRallyRoo Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 I don't really see why the sway bar would cause this. Its really noticable... I guess I could take it off, this car is going to be my offroader anyway so I suppose taking the sway off will give the car better flex. I drove up my buddies driveway last night... The side of it which is about a 3 foot ledge with just the RR wheel. OMG this thing made it up it and the other wheels were all planted on the ground. I couldn't believe it haha. I guess tomorrow I will take the sways off. Anyone know just how scary this thing is going to be to drive with no sway bars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breeke Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 not scary at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperRallyRoo Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 Will it improve its off road abilty much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Will it improve its off road abilty much? yea, it helps a bit. probably adds an inch or so to each corner, which can be the difference between walking through something, or having to use momentum.... How much better depends on your driving style, and what kind of wheeling you do. But chances are, you'll notice a decent improvement off-road, and a little change (that you'll probably quickly get used to) on-road. It's not dangerous, you'll still have lots of traction, and very little chance of rolling.....it's just different. there's pretty much zero chance the sway bar is what's causing your CV issues though. So if that's what you're thinking.....back to the drawing board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karstaedt Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 i have a 94 with floppy shocks and my mom just blew the heads on her 98 obw ( 150k miles duh....) and gave her to me. is this a swap i can do in the yard in a day? doing them one at a time? or is it a hefty task.. i have hand tools and a gravel yard... and sadly ill need to put my old ones back on the obw so it can roll onto a trailer... also are there any other parts i can steal to upgrade my 94 (high roof gt with 90k miles at that!!) and then finally im parting the 98 out so does anyone need any parts for cheap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Yup, easy to do in a day. The fronts will bolt right in, the rear strut tops are different. You can go two ways on that, one is redrill the holes in the body so the 3 studs fit through, the other is to use a spring compressor and swap the strut cap from the 94 onto the outback strut. You will probably need a small spacer washer under the nut that holds the strut to the strut cap, as the outback struts aren't threaded as far down as the older legacy ones. If you don't you will hear a clunk in the back. Outback front brakes are bigger than yours, though you may need to run bigger wheels. When you swap the struts, instead of removing the brake hoses and bleeding brakes, take off the clip that holds the hose to the strut, move the brake hose back a bit, and use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut the bracket. Bend the bracket back so that you can get the hose out of the hole it goes through. Then, when everything is installed, put the hose in, bend the bracket back so the cut lines up, and put the clip back on. Depending on the condition of the Outback, it may make more sense to do the headgaskets in it rather than part it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karstaedt Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 thanks.. thats what i needed to know.. the outback is excelent actually... mom has driven it since new. sadly no garages want to tackle it here and they say it would be 3 grand if they would and add brakes and full exhaust (all flanges leak some) and its almost 5 grand to fix her. im a decent mechanic but im not so sure i want to tackle head gaskets on a machine that might just be cracked or warped and might pop again in 20 k miles... but yes. i am taking the wheels off the obw because mine leak. i've had them ground and re sealed over and over with no luck. and the obw has 15s as apposed to my 14s. and much better looking to boot. i do not have a spring compressor so some drilling will be in order. id like to do a 2.2 swap.. but mom needs a car right away and i cant do that real soon so she is buying a new one and i have this one just to sit around... might even put it on ebay after i kife the stuff i can use. its a shame but its just cheaper to buy another than fix this one. as i said.. if anyone else wants to tackle her i can sell her cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Where is Hagerstown? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karstaedt Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 in maryland right where interstate 81 and 70 intersect about an hour west of washington dc... if someone wants the whole car i will only take the wheels for mine. and ill strip off the rusty exhaust.... ill put the old wheels from mine on her. and this seems cleche but this car was babied through its life... my mom always has subarus but its because she is a school administrator and needs to be on time every day up here in the mountains.. and i never borrowed it to go bombing on the trails lol... i have a subie of my own for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty2Austin Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I dont recall seeing this in this thread, but to answer the clicking-CV problem after installing the OB struts- when you install the struts, to eliminate the clicking of CVs, you need to also unstall the lift-spacers from the outback- they are little mini-lift kit blocks that go in all the usual lift kit places, (like between crossmembers, etc) this makes it so the angle of the CVs don't change as much when you put the taller struts in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I dont recall seeing this in this thread, but to answer the clicking-CV problem after installing the OB struts- when you install the struts, to eliminate the clicking of CVs, you need to also unstall the lift-spacers from the outback- they are little mini-lift kit blocks that go in all the usual lift kit places, (like between crossmembers, etc) this makes it so the angle of the CVs don't change as much when you put the taller struts in Good new axles can handle the angle just fine. It is on;y when the axles are old and worn to one position that they start clicking after the strut swap. I don't install the legacy "anti-lift" blocks. You loose all the extra clearance. Never had problems with new axles. If they are clicking, they were on there way out anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthoodsub Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Good new axles can handle the angle just fine. It is on;y when the axles are old and worn to one position that they start clicking after the strut swap. I don't install the legacy "anti-lift" blocks. You loose all the extra clearance. Never had problems with new axles. If they are clicking, they were on there way out anyhow. Everyone has different results. I put OB struts on my legacy and before that I had forester struts. Ive bought new axles(NAPA-never again) and had them start clicking 5 hours later:mad: Ive also bought new axles from MWE, a quality rebuilt SUBARU axle lasted a few months, some lasted a couple days. And in the end Subaru axles from the Junkyard have always lasted the longest. Who knows maybe the axle is on its way out, but if it was because that CV was old and worn in one spot then shouldnt all of his axles be clicking? Personally, if youre not going through axles, You're not having enough fun:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.