what's it worth?

[Ceejus]

i'm going to look at a 1990 Legacy LS wagon this weekend. the guy wants $1000 for it. 141K on the clock, 5 speed full time AWD car. supposed to run and drive good. got a few rust spots, but really not too bad. it's been on craigslist long enough that the ad expired. that being said, i think i could get it for less..... here are some pics. i'd like to know what some of you folks think it's worth at a glance. i know that you can't give a really accurate estimate from a few pics, but a ballpark figure would be good enough. also, is there anything i should specifically look for on these cars that is a deal breaker? thanks!!!

 

ps. yes, i did notice the check engine light being on in the one pic.

 

 

i'd like for it to end up looking something like this....

[bheinen74]

i would dare say 400-600 due to rust, mismathced bumpers, dented hood, missing corner light, greasey seat, half the steering wheel leather is missing (mileage might not be accurate, i have never seen a steering wheel leather mia like that) crinkled fender along where the hood closes there is a gap like they closed it on a beer can, sunvisor is behind the passenger seat. and, the unknown CEL .

 

If the tires are all good, then yeah, 600

Edited January 5, 2010 by bheinen74

[Ceejus]

that's actually around the ballpark i was thinking. and yeah, i noticed the sun visor in the seat pocket too hahaha!

[SakoTGrimes]

I'd say $500-600 on the count of the CEL, rust spots and pissing parts. Looks like a decent car otherwise.

[Fairtax4me]

I'd try for about $500 if it runs and drives good. But no more.

 

I'd like to have that red one with a big grille guard.

[86subaru]

yes around 600 bucks, check underneith , for bad axles, oil leaks, touque bind,+ parts aleast around here are some times hard to find, but then you can buy them here,

Edited January 5, 2010 by 86subaru

[Ceejus]

how would i know if it has bad axles or torque bind?

[Rooster2]

how would i know if it has bad axles or torque bind?

 

Bad axles result from torn boots that allows dirt to enter the CV joints. Check for torn rubber boots at each end of the half shafts (axles) by looking under the car. It is difficult to do this without raising the front end to get a good look at the half shafts. Suggest this being done at a repair garage, where the car can be put up on a lift, or it can be done driving the front up on small portable ramps.

 

Is this car 2 wheel drive or all wheel drive? Torque bind is only an all wheel drive problem. It can be diagnosed, when driving, if the steering seems to bind up on turns, thus the name torque bind.

 

Most I would pay would be $500, or $495 if owner lets you keep the $5 bill resting in the cubby hole in front of the shifter.

[Ceejus]

Bad axles result from torn boots that allows dirt to enter the CV joints. Check for torn rubber boots at each end of the half shafts (axles) by looking under the car. It is difficult to do this without raising the front end to get a good look at the half shafts. Suggest this being done at a repair garage, where the car can be put up on a lift, or it can be done driving the front up on small portable ramps.

 

Is this car 2 wheel drive or all wheel drive? Torque bind is only an all wheel drive problem. It can be diagnosed, when driving, if the steering seems to bind up on turns, thus the name torque bind.

 

Most I would pay would be $500, or $495 if owner lets you keep the $5 bill resting in the cubby hole in front of the shifter.

 

thanks! looking at the cv boots won't be a problem. the car is an all wheel drive car. if it were fwd i wouldn't even be considering it. is torque bind an issue that can be fixed or is it not worth the time, trouble and money?

i was wondering about that fiver too!

[Allpar Mod]

Another thing that was missed. This car was used for some sort of towing. That puts considerable strain on the powertrain. You don't know how much this poor car was abused and from the pictures, this car didn't live a life of leisure. I tow a 24' camper with a 1/2 ton truck and know how much it gets abused even though it's suited to what I do to it. A Soob really wasn't meant to tow even though any car can tow a very light trailer. Still, you have no idea what was towed and how heavy it was much less how often.

 

I'd wave $500 in unmarked bills under his nose and no more.

[Ceejus]

Another thing that was missed. This car was used for some sort of towing. That puts considerable strain on the powertrain. You don't know how much this poor car was abused and from the pictures, this car didn't live a life of leisure. I tow a 24' camper with a 1/2 ton truck and know how much it gets abused even though it's suited to what I do to it. A Soob really wasn't meant to tow even though any car can tow a very light trailer. Still, you have no idea what was towed and how heavy it was much less how often.

 

I'd wave $500 in unmarked bills under his nose and no more.

 

 

i noticed that flat 4 trailer plug laying there too, and you can just barely see a hitch ball in one of the pics. it would be interesting to know what exactly was pulled behind it. i wouldn't be too worried if it was just a motorcycle trailer or something like that. a camper however, would be a different story.

[Rooster2]

thanks! looking at the cv boots won't be a problem. the car is an all wheel drive car. if it were fwd i wouldn't even be considering it. is torque bind an issue that can be fixed or is it not worth the time, trouble and money?

i was wondering about that fiver too!

 

 

Suggest you read previous posts on this USMB regarding "torque bind." A search here will yield a lot on technically what causes it, and how to fix. It doesn't seem like something cheap and ez to fix.

[Ceejus]

did some reading up on the torque bind thing. at it's worst, it doesn't look like a horrible or impossible job. but it does look like a good bargaining tool if it's there.

[Fairtax4me]

Torque bind on a manual means a trip the the junkyard for a new (to you) center differential. You could probably fix that with the trans still on the car. The FSM makes it sound like the center diff just pops right out when you remove the extension housing cover.

[MilesFox]

dont be afraid of this car. if everything is in good working order, then it is worth between 500 and 1,000

 

if it was not for the rust its an easy 1200-1500 dollar car.

 

for less than 1000 expect to find something with a bad automatic, blow head gaskets, or millions of miles, or completely rusted out. and if that scares you off, then finding something newer with less miles will be more prone to head gaskets than the older design.

 

i would say this car is worth getting into, just work the price down what you can. otherwise if you walk away from it, you will have to tell yourself 'you either want a subaru or you don't'

 

personally i would go towards 750 for this car, if i had the money.

 

you should expect to do a water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles if it has not been done already. this engine can easily see 300,000 miles on its original head gaskets. other than that, typical axle boots or wheel bearing.

 

the mileage is just right to have plenty left

[Ceejus]

thanks for the info! obviously, we'd all like to have a GL with dual range trans., but it seems as though they are all in the pacific northwest! maybe i'll have one of them at some point, but i haven't seen one anywhere near here yet. shipping one from there to here isn't feasible either. so, i'll have to take what i can get for now. i really think this is a decent car more than likely, and it's an easy 2" lift with OB struts and springs. i think it can be made into something cool for not a lot of $. we'll see what happens when i check it out!

Edited January 6, 2010 by Ceejus

[ericem]

And the check engine light is most likely a cracked knock sensor, or bad o2 sensor.

[Ceejus]

well, i'm supposed to go check it out tomorrow. hope it's decent and he'll come down on price considerably. if not, i'll save some more $ and keep looking.

[MilesFox]

hey if you do get this car, and decide to sellit in the future, i would be interested. i am a hoosier born and raised (fort wayne, auburn)!

 

if i land myself a d/r ea82 soob one of thes days i can trade you plus cash difference. for future reference. good luck with the legacy*jealous*

[Ceejus]

dont be afraid of this car. if everything is in good working order, then it is worth between 500 and 1,000

 

if it was not for the rust its an easy 1200-1500 dollar car.

 

for less than 1000 expect to find something with a bad automatic, blow head gaskets, or millions of miles, or completely rusted out. and if that scares you off, then finding something newer with less miles will be more prone to head gaskets than the older design.

 

i would say this car is worth getting into, just work the price down what you can. otherwise if you walk away from it, you will have to tell yourself 'you either want a subaru or you don't'

 

personally i would go towards 750 for this car, if i had the money.

 

you should expect to do a water pump and timing belt at 200,000 miles if it has not been done already. this engine can easily see 300,000 miles on its original head gaskets. other than that, typical axle boots or wheel bearing.

 

the mileage is just right to have plenty left

 

i can deal with some rust i have a mig welder. the mismatched bumper covers don't bother me a bit. that front one will come off and get scrapped anyway. i'll weld up a steel bumper with a winch plate for it!

[Ceejus]

hey if you do get this car, and decide to sellit in the future, i would be interested. i am a hoosier born and raised (fort wayne, auburn)!

 

if i land myself a d/r ea82 soob one of thes days i can trade you plus cash difference. for future reference. good luck with the legacy*jealous*

 

i'll keep that in mind.

i've already been doing some research on tires and what i think i may be able to stuff in there after the 2 or so inches of lift from the OB struts and springs.