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EJ25 experts I need some information.


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I'm trying to find an EJ25 to fit into my 97 OBW. I got a used ej25d, but it has 6 tranmission to motor bolts and 2 studs. My original 2.5 only had 2 bolts and 2 studs. Is this motor with more the same, and what else is different?

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Yep, that doesn't matter. Bellhousing pattern changed in 98, but it'll still bolt up just fine. Use all the ones that line up.

 

What does matter is that the EJ25 changed from Phase I to Phase II in 1999/2000 (depending on model). Since yours has a different bellhousing it could be a 98 or 99. If you cross referenced then it doesn't really matter, I'm sure you just didn't go randomly buy a subaru engine right?

 

As long as you have a 1996-1998, or 99 Phase I it'll drop right in and plug and play.

 

Phase I is easily identifiable as DOHC - which means dual cams on each side - the timing cover will look the same with two "indentations" for the cam sprockets. if the timing covers look different then it won't work.

 

Of course - you'll want one with the proper EGR set up, but you already know that from your other debacle. Sorry to hear you couldn't find a way around that, what a stinking mess.

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I dont really have timing covers from these motors, they are cores motors that were going to be scrapped. Is there any other way to tell between phase 1 and phase 2? I assume the older ones being phase 1 is what I have. What would I need to make a phase 2 fit adn work if thats what I had. But most importnaly how else could I identify it. If I had to guess I believe its a phase 2, cause the crankshaft is also different. The thrust is on position 5.

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Phase II = SOHC and Phase I = DOHC.

I believe the thrust bearing was moved (i know it was for EJ22's, probably same for EJ25's). So you probably do have a Phase II.

 

I haven't done it but options that might be possible are:

Bolt Phase I heads to Phase II short block

Install Phase I engine wiring onto Phase II long block.

 

The intake manifolds are not interchangeable, so it's not as easy as just swapping manifolds.

 

I believe Phase I to Phase II went MAF to MAP so that confuses things if the "Phase I heads on Phase II short block" doesn't work.

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Thank you very much, seems like I got kind of a rare EJ25D. Its one of the last dual cam 2.5 used in outbacks... and it has the changes to the crankshaft that came at the end of its life, so its like the newer bottom end but still dual cam:). Also this motor I got is in pretty fine shape, should be able to throw her all back together with new rings and bearings probably, do up the heads nice and see how it works out. Oh and of course make sure the head gasket surfaces are extremely flat and smooth to help avoid the terrrible problem the ej25d suffers from.

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What you had specifically was a 2.5 from a Manual transmission 99 OB. At least that is the defining matter that I have seen. 8 bolt bell housing instead of 4.

 

The flywheel and clutch are the same size, etc. However there might be a holding capability issue with a 2.2 cover plate. I do know that all new clutches, discs, and flywheels have superseded to all the same number. If you are unsure, and don't want to go there again, buy new ones. If you want to split hairs on this. the clutch itself won't matter. They all measure .330 when new. Clutch covers, (cover plate, pressure plate, etc) had a different clamping capacity in the past. new ones *should* be the same.

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I just did a ton of looking around at clutches and flywheels, and the best I could tell the only difference between 2.2 and 2.5 was the pressure plate. The rest was the same. So I figured the clamp force was probably the only difference for the 2.5.

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OH boy, found out some other things they changed. They went to a one piece belt tensioner.... and the one piece tensioner i have has an awfully bad bearing. I have the older style tensioner and pulleys and that is all in pretty decent shape, so I'd use that if its all interchangeable. And is the one piece design far superior or something?

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Actually you might get lucky here. It's the opposite - the older style two piece tensioners are far more reliable than the newer style. The newer style has issues, I hate them because of it. Totally annoying going to a less reliable design right around when you start introducing interference engines.

 

Anyway - you can actually swap the old and new style tensioners if you have the bracket they bolt too. If you have the old engine you're golden, swap the whole bracket and tensioner onto the new engine.

 

I'm a bit confused though - you have an EJ25 with an old style tensioner on it, a 1997? Every 1997 i've seen has had the new style tensioner. Wonder if yours was previously worked on/replaced sometime in it's past?

 

OH boy, found out some other things they changed. They went to a one piece belt tensioner.... and the one piece tensioner i have has an awfully bad bearing. I have the older style tensioner and pulleys and that is all in pretty decent shape, so I'd use that if its all interchangeable. And is the one piece design far superior or something?
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I have my original 1997 with the spun rod bearing, and it had all the old style stuff on it, so I have all those parts. Then my 99 had the new style, and in my haynes manual it says in 1998 they switched to a redesign, good to know its interchangeable though. Only wondering if the belts are the same?

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pretty sure the belts are the same. look them up online, subaru, ebay and see if 96-99 are the same.

 

i've seen the newer style tensioner on 1997's, so that 1998 year seems a little off to me. i did two just last year that had the new style tensioner a 1997 Impreza OBS and 1997 Legacy L sedan, both 2.2 liters though.

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