Due to a birth defect in my arms and hands I needed to do a custom steering and shifting setup in my '91 Loyale. I am unable to extend my arms beyond 90*, so the steering wheel and shifter needed to be much closer to my body to safely operate the car.

 

Here are the results:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Momo 7303 Steering Hub Adapter

NRG Quick Release

Works Bell 25mm Spacer

Nardi 350mm Deep Corn Sport Rally Wheel

 

WC Lathe Werks 9" Extension, with 3" Offset

WC Lathe Werks "Mushroom" Knob, 1.8 lbs solid SS

Now that looks like good engineering. It matches the original design concept of the car perfectly: plain, practical, and built for the long haul.

 

A question about your 4wd switch: Is it in easy reach ? I am not sure of your range of mobility, but it looks like it is further away than the original shift knob would be, and you moved the knob, so I am wondering. Instant access can be a real advantage at times.

thats great! nice work on making it work for you.

 

My question tho... do you have a remote control for that radio? Or are you like me and just listen to one station most of the time.

It may be possible to get a knob that includes a switch for the 4WD, if you want it. Industrial joysticks for equipment like overhead cranes, etc., use a standard thread for the knob, and they can be obtained with switches built in. An outfit I have worked with that supplies this type of equipment is JR Merritt, in Connecticut. Not cheap, but their stuff is pretty good, and everything they do is custom, so they know how to deal with a one-off. Worth a try, if you want better ergonomics on the switch.

 

The only thing is, it won't be a 1.8 lb block of beautifully-turned stainless steel.

Now that looks like good engineering. It matches the original design concept of the car perfectly: plain, practical, and built for the long haul.

 

A question about your 4wd switch: Is it in easy reach ? I am not sure of your range of mobility, but it looks like it is further away than the original shift knob would be, and you moved the knob, so I am wondering. Instant access can be a real advantage at times.

 

Thanks! Yes, I can reach the 4wd button with my right elbow. For now this is a temporary fix; I have a few ideas for a permanent location.

 

1) Move it to the dash - left of the cluster - if I get tired of leaning over to activate 4wd.

 

2) Rewire the button to a trigger on the steering wheel.

 

3) Rewire the button to a pedal mounted near the dead pedal - not sure if there's a switch like this...

 

thats great! nice work on making it work for you.

 

My question tho... do you have a remote control for that radio? Or are you like me and just listen to one station most of the time.

 

Nope, no remote, unfortunately. My mechanic gave me a HU that was laying around...so, beggars can't be choosers. I usually listen to one station anyways.

 

It may be possible to get a knob that includes a switch for the 4WD, if you want it. Industrial joysticks for equipment like overhead cranes, etc., use a standard thread for the knob, and they can be obtained with switches built in. An outfit I have worked with that supplies this type of equipment is JR Merritt, in Connecticut. Not cheap, but their stuff is pretty good, and everything they do is custom, so they know how to deal with a one-off. Worth a try, if you want better ergonomics on the switch.

 

The only thing is, it won't be a 1.8 lb block of beautifully-turned stainless steel.

 

Cool, I'll check out their stuff to see if they make something I might be able to use. Yes, it would really be a same to lose that knob...it was a custom one-off and $$$, as you can imagine.

 

 

 

Next up for this car is some Hella 500s I have laying around in the garage. I'll do some poking around to see what others have done, but I'm thinking about mounting them directly to the top bumper, and reinforcing the back with some 1x1 angle.

A highbeam/lowbeam switch out of an old truck would probably work great for that. They're meant to be foot actuated, and they would have both poles to feed the two solenoids.

A highbeam/lowbeam switch out of an old truck would probably work great for that. They're meant to be foot actuated, and they would have both poles to feed the two solenoids.

 

Sweet! I'll start looking for an old switch! Thanks!

There are little switch panels on the left of the dash that just pop out. The switch could be mounted on one, and put back in. Wiring will be fun, as it looks like a copper mine under there, with all the wires, but probably easier than wiring the old dimmer switch on the floor. No holes or brackets to make.

 

For instance, in photo 5, the little rectangular panel next to the vent should just pry out.

Looks great! I love the steering wheel.

Great job!!! Very nice work!!

Sweet! I'll start looking for an old switch! Thanks!

 

My 78 International Scout has a switch like this thats on the floor for the high/lo beams. I don't know if there's any in the junkyards over there, or if you can go to the dealership or anything, but it'll give you something to start looking for.

Looks great! I love the steering wheel.

 

Thanks! The steering wheel feels awesome! The suede provides great grip and feel while driving with one hand.

 

Great job!!! Very nice work!!

 

Thanks!

 

My 78 International Scout has a switch like this thats on the floor for the high/lo beams. I don't know if there's any in the junkyards over there, or if you can go to the dealership or anything, but it'll give you something to start looking for.

 

We do have some u-pull-its around town. I need to source a hubcap (lost one today, and it was MINT) and few other pieces, so I'll keep an eye out for Scouts.

 

 

 

We do have some u-pull-its around town. I need to source a hubcap (lost one today, and it was MINT) and few other pieces, so I'll keep an eye out for Scouts.

 

and if you find any, let me know because I need scout parts! Haha!

and if you find any, let me know because I need scout parts! Haha!

 

lol Will do. Any parts in particular?

lol Will do. Any parts in particular?

 

Visors, mirrors, whatever little stuff.

First of all; excellent work on making a vehicle accomodate you. I really enjoy seeing this kind of stuff. If you ever get a chance to look at some the Bonneville salt flats race cars you should definitely do so. There are countless example of injured racers designing their own control systems to accomodate paralysis of all sorts, both racing wreck related, and natural.

 

Secondly; the dimmer switch that everyone is thinking of would be an excellent option for you. They are incredibly simple, and pretty reliable. They'll usually last for years before the water off your shoes ruins them. Either way it doesn't matter as they are cheap. They have a simple tab mounting system, so, you wouldn't need any special brackets or anything. Just a wiring harness extending down to the switch and back. The switch could easily be mounted with two large self tapping screws, and a hole cut in the carpet for the round button to stick through. I'd recomend going to a reputable parts house like a Napa or Carquest, and asking an experienced counterman to get you the Electronics picture book. An experienced counterman should know exactly what you are talking about when you ask for an older style floor mount dimmer switch. At Napa It would be the Echlin Picture book, and you would want to look under SW 001 -250 for these style switches. There are many of them, but, they are all virtually the same. They just use different wiring harnesses throughout different manufacturers.

First of all; excellent work on making a vehicle accomodate you. I really enjoy seeing this kind of stuff. If you ever get a chance to look at some the Bonneville salt flats race cars you should definitely do so. There are countless example of injured racers designing their own control systems to accomodate paralysis of all sorts, both racing wreck related, and natural.

 

Secondly; the dimmer switch that everyone is thinking of would be an excellent option for you. They are incredibly simple, and pretty reliable. They'll usually last for years before the water off your shoes ruins them. Either way it doesn't matter as they are cheap. They have a simple tab mounting system, so, you wouldn't need any special brackets or anything. Just a wiring harness extending down to the switch and back. The switch could easily be mounted with two large self tapping screws, and a hole cut in the carpet for the round button to stick through. I'd recomend going to a reputable parts house like a Napa or Carquest, and asking an experienced counterman to get you the Electronics picture book. An experienced counterman should know exactly what you are talking about when you ask for an older style floor mount dimmer switch. At Napa It would be the Echlin Picture book, and you would want to look under SW 001 -250 for these style switches. There are many of them, but, they are all virtually the same. They just use different wiring harnesses throughout different manufacturers.

 

Thanks, thanks, and thanks!!!! Very good info in your post. I've always wanted to drive a manual, to be honest, but I didn't want to risk spending $10k+ on a vehicle to find out if I could drive it. Granted, I'm not an expert driver, but I was able to drive the vehicle on my first attempt. I'm an engineer, so I know how clutches work and was able to quickly figure out the best combination of clutch and gas. Today I drove the car 32 miles (roundtrip) to/from work in heavy traffic, and I've had the car for less than a week. (Ok, enough mental masturbation...lol)

 

Thanks for the info on the switches. I'll check them out this weekend. I think I'd rather have the switch for the Hellas on the floor, since I can quickly turn it on and off with my left foot, rather than taking my hands off the wheel. My reach sucks, and the steering wheel allows me to sit further away from the dash than I otherwise would, so dash-mounted switches are difficult to reach. I can reach the dash more easily with my left elbow than with my right...don't know why. For now, I'll probably keep the 4wd button on the shift lever, and wire a floor mounted switch to some Hellas.

Sweet! I'll start looking for an old switch! Thanks!

 

ask for a switch for an 88 ford pickup. i just got done replacing my floor switch, aw some job on the custome work

what hub/adapter is that? and was it a direct fit?

ask for a switch for an 88 ford pickup. i just got done replacing my floor switch, aw some job on the custome work

 

 

He should really take a look at the picture book and decide which wiring harness would best accomodate his needs. Especially since he'll most likely need to get the plug harness with the switch. Most of these are 3 wire, but, a few are 4 wire. They are a simple switch, but, a good understanding of what they do and how will benefit him greatly. He may be able to run things more beneficially with a little research. That's why I avoided stating "get one for this".

what hub/adapter is that? and was it a direct fit?

 

It's a Momo hub adapter. The part number is 7303 and it was a direct fit. They've been discontinued for several years and I got lucky finding one new.

 

He should really take a look at the picture book and decide which wiring harness would best accomodate his needs. Especially since he'll most likely need to get the plug harness with the switch. Most of these are 3 wire, but, a few are 4 wire. They are a simple switch, but, a good understanding of what they do and how will benefit him greatly. He may be able to run things more beneficially with a little research. That's why I avoided stating "get one for this".

 

Yeah, I need to put together a quick electrical schematic for the lights, so I can figure out how I want to wire them. I think the Hellas use a 3 wire switch - ground, load, and supply.

Pretty work! Custom fab always makes me smile when done well. Just a thought but how about a push push latching swith in the door panel that you could hit with your elbow for the 4wd. Here's a sample sheet.

Jim

 

http://www.apem.com/pushbutton.html