wagaru Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 so i have a new gl10. 4wd, of course, with a jdm ea82t (or so im told, im not an expert on these.) and it runs as it should for a low mileage motor, except, when it gets warm. im not talking over heating, but i mean it runs like a scalded cat until it gets to o/t then it feels like its missing, or running rich/lean. its hard to describe, really. i can fix a scooter engine no problem, but with all the control systems on an 80s car, im not as good at trouble shooting. i've had a few other turbo cars, and had a good run with em, so im used to turbo quirks, and vacuum leaks, and when it happened it felt like i had a boost leak somewhere. i checked all the connections, and i still cant find a leak, i looked over the vacuum lines and they seem to be in good shape. no visible dry rot. it sat for a little bit before i got it, so it could be something simple. i have a full tank of good fresh premium, and im going to swap the plugs and maybe the wires today. i am not looking to make it a race car, i enjoy it for what it is, but i do want it firing on all cylinders, both literally and figuratively. anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 When in doubt, start with a tuneup. If the plugs are fairly new, inspect them to make sure they arent fouled. Plugs, quality wires, filters. Also once it warms out, the choke comes off fully, so it can be leaning out. If you accelerate and the problem goes away something may be clogged in the carb. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 No choke or carb on the turbo engines. I agree - start with plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Turbo's in general don't like large plug gaps as the high cylinder pressure's tend to cause misfireing if the plug gap is out of spec. When warm the mixture will lean out and make the problem more noticeable. Also might be a good idea to get a resistance reading on the coolant temp sensor - the computer may not know it's warm. And have you checked for codes? The ECU might be able to give you a head start on troubleshooting if it's got codes set in the memory. Clean the MAF if it has a hot-wire type. Electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner will do the trick. Check the timing - the timing information should be on the hood sticker - it varies depending on the year for the turbo's. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 No choke or carb on the turbo engines. I agree - start with plugs/wires/cap/rotor.GD Ok its been ages since i've seen one, so i forgot i'll sit back and get a refresher course. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Ok its been ages since i've seen one, so i forgot Yeah - I don't like em much so I don't see many either. But it's helpful to remember that Subaru has never made a turbo with a carb. In fact very few car manufacturer's have ever done that. Although the Masarati BiTurbo comes to mind...... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 My car exp goes back into the 60's when they turbos were carbed, and the 70's were carbed and 80's were a nightmare nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 interesting news to report. i was in the boonies in the middle of the night when i filled up, and i remnember that for some reason their "premium" was 90, 90!!! i added the best at the next gas station, when i was on e, and that was sadly only 91, but this seemed to make a noticeable difference. im going to have to map who has the good stuff near my place, since in japan i know they run on like, 103 or something. the difference between what it was supposed to run on and what it is running on is vast. so im going to dump a crap load of octane booster in it. jdm motor, i shoulda made the connection. also, it feels like i am indeed leaning out. i feel that i'll start with maf cleaning, octane booster, tb butterfly cleaning, plugs and wires. maybe a hot coil if i can find one. the only real "mods" i want for the car are things to make it last longer, as i enjoy it a great deal as it is, and want it to run as long as possible before i start stuffing an ej in there or something lol. im thinking of running castrol syntec in it. I'm also REALLY considering using an electric fan, to take some of the load off that over worked hamster motor, lol seems like it would last longer and id get better milage if i wasn't slugging a big metal fan at thousands of rpms:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 No choke or carb on the turbo engines. I agree - start with plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Turbo's in general don't like large plug gaps as the high cylinder pressure's tend to cause misfireing if the plug gap is out of spec. When warm the mixture will lean out and make the problem more noticeable. Also might be a good idea to get a resistance reading on the coolant temp sensor - the computer may not know it's warm. And have you checked for codes? The ECU might be able to give you a head start on troubleshooting if it's got codes set in the memory. Clean the MAF if it has a hot-wire type. Electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner will do the trick. Check the timing - the timing information should be on the hood sticker - it varies depending on the year for the turbo's. GD also, whats a hot wire type maf?? and how can i check the ecu on a car that old, obd back then ment old broken and dented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Actually the difference in octane ratings is purely one of how it's calculated by the laws of the country you are in. There are two common ratings (RON and MON) and some countries use one and some use the other. By govenment mandate here in the US we use the average of the two. That makes our ratings quite a bit lower than Japan for the same grade of fuel. So our 91 is their 105 or whatever..... That said, the EA82T should run just dandy on 89 or higher. Higher is prefered but they have a knock sensor and fairly low boost pressure's stock. 91 is prefered but you won't notice the difference much at all. In other words - octane is not your problem. Not even remotely. JDM has nothing to do with how it will run here - the fuel inejction system is USDM and the compression ratio of the engine is still 7.7:1 - requireing the same octane as the original engine that came with the car. GD Edited February 6, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Hot wire vs. vane style MAF. If it's an 85 or 86 it should have the vane style, and all 87's and newer should be hot-wire. Just clean the two little wires with the electronics cleaner. GD Edited February 6, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 wow, i stand educated, thank you, i never knew about the octane ratings system, it seems trivial, but it really is a good solid point you make. mine is an 87, so looking like its gonna be the wire one. im really enjoying the 4wd. i have had about 5-7 subies, so im not totally green, but this is my first GL and its a hoot. im going to the autoparts store in just a bit. let you know what happens! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 i will bet you a dollar the coolant temp sensor is bad or corroded. its located behind the intake near the turbo itself, and is monted on the water crossover casting at the back of the intake. at least clean up the terminals ands see if this makes a difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 i remember reading something about this, i'll try it tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 i will bet you a dollar the coolant temp sensor is bad or corroded. its located behind the intake near the turbo itself, and is monted on the water crossover casting at the back of the intake. at least clean up the terminals ands see if this makes a difference I've had this exact problem on an 87 RX - The coolant sensor does a WHOLE lot of playing with the mixture. I had my RX running on three cylinders when warm, tried new plugs, leads, rotor, cap, everything. Then I had a mechanic whom I know well through work tell me about the coolant sensor. Bunged a new one in - Perfect. Give that a crack, I'm almost certain its what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) well something else came out of the woodwork last night. we were going somewhere and my wife said she was cold so i go to turn on the air, and it's not very warm. so i look at the temp gauge, and it says 1/4 of the way warm. it does not budge from this spot at all, after it warms up. so im thinking that the temp sensor may well be bad, and that the thermostat is toast also, since if a failsafe was used, then they will OVER cool, rather than under cool, to prevent overheating. i got a new one for it, and a new gasket as well. managed to fix the stereo too! there was no power getting to it, turns out that the fused line behind it had come loose, and it had broken the locking tabs off the little fuse block that lock it together, so i fixed that and BOOM, working stereo. On a side note, before i sold a couple of cars i had laying around, i ganked the stereo out of one. i now have a nice little kenwood deck, and 4 6" infinity speakers and will be installing THAT system in place of my current one. Edited February 7, 2010 by wagaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Being a turbo - high likelyhood that it was overheating and some previous owner removed the thermostat completely. These EA82T's rarely overcool - mostly they overheat and blow up. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 These EA82T's rarely overcool - mostly they overheat and blow up. GD Know this all too well,haha. Anyway though, I'd check to see if the thermostat has been taken out too. A new one is always good to have. Something else to keep in mind is. The coolant temp sensor we are talking about supplies temp info to the ecu, to help control the mixture. The coolant temp sender supplies the info to the gauge. They are two diff ones. The one we want you to replace has nothing to do with what your gauge reads inside the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 more interesting details! and questions! question one: where is this sensor located and what does it look like?? question two: are they available locally or is there a special place to get them if they are not. now for the details. when i pulled the over pipe off, the inside of it was spotless, as was the back side of the throttle plate. and everything else for that matter, very encouraging. also, the thermostat was the factory unit, so it was replaced for the sake of preventative maintenece, be as it was decades old i also discovered that the belts were shot and replaced them, and that, wonder of wonders, the fan clutch was totally frozen . because of this constant on, the blades were stressed to the point of cracking, and were about ready to come off, dodged a bullet there, and that MAY explain some of my over cooling issues. though that sensor makes me nervous and id like to make sure i get it swapped while i have it apart. Got a new seal also for the thermostat as well. there's hope yet, but lots of little things to tend to. i broke a vacuum nipple off, so im in the process as i type here of letting the glue dry so it can be resealed and put back on. its on some kind of black box thingy not sure what it does lol:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 question one: where is this sensor located and what does it look like?? Rear, passenger side of the intake manifold. There is a coolant cross-over in the manifold and the CTS for the computer is threaded into it. question two: are they available locally or is there a special place to get them if they are not. I beleive this is the one ($16 at www.rockauto.com): also, the thermostat was the factory unit, so it was replaced for the sake of preventative maintenece, be as it was decades old Best to stick with OEM on the thermostat's - should have mentioned that before. High failure/overheating potential with the aftermarket stuff. Dealer isn't that expensive. i also discovered that the belts were shot and replaced them, and that, wonder of wonders, the fan clutch was totally frozen . because of this constant on, the blades were stressed to the point of cracking, and were about ready to come off, dodged a bullet there, and that MAY explain some of my over cooling issues. though that sensor makes me nervous and id like to make sure i get it swapped while i have it apart. Got a new seal also for the thermostat as well. Don't worry about the mechanical fan - leave it off. It's mostly for the air conditioning and isn't even found on non-AC cars. The primary electric fan will handle all your cooling needs this time of year. Plan on adding a second electric fan for the heat of summer. You'll be fine for now though without it. there's hope yet, but lots of little things to tend to. i broke a vacuum nipple off, so im in the process as i type here of letting the glue dry so it can be resealed and put back on. its on some kind of black box thingy not sure what it does lol:lol: That's a solenoid of some kind. Depending on what it does you can likely fake the ECU by installing a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor in it's place and cap the lines. Depends on what it does though - follow the vac lines and see what it's operating. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 stupid evil death box has a 2 wire pig tail going to it and the vacuum lines comeing out of it seems to be connected to a lot of stuff. its like a black cylinder inside a metal box/bracket. a hose in and a hose out. no camera atm, but i'd love to kill this death box, as its falling apart at the seams and i have no idea what it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 !!!!!! >( stupid death box!! the wire broke off at the clip!!!! cmon! thankfully i had an extra connector sitting around, so im ab out to re solder it now on the plus side im making progress:banana: i bought the correct sensor and will be installing it at lunch tomorrow, as i do not have a deep socket here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The evil death box is just a solenoid - EGR, EVAP, etc. It controls the vacuum signal to something. Try to follow the lines - one should go to the manifold or another vacuum source and the other to the device it's controlling. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 the line from vacuum is from the intake pipe after the air flow sensor, the line out is to a silver line, the one on top i believe, metal and it tees off to something in the tb and then goes onward. not sure still what this thing controls... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 re soldered the wires with the new connector, and re attached the nipple thing. heres hoping it works.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 so i put it back together and it SEEMS to be ok. i may have left something off, so i'll be praying i did not this evening. it was way faster and the hesitation seems gone. haven't yet gotten all the plugs changed because its night time, and i can't see much so i'll knock them out at work tomorrow. got one in and then the light left me. the ones that are in there are good but they are bosch platinum 2s and i just dont like that in a turbo car i got good ole ngk's, so i think those will do better. v power i thinks, the regular ones were not available. it seems a bit sluggish off the line till the boost kicks in, and i am familiar with turbo lag, but i guess what im saying is, it feels like its still not 100% still, much much better, but still a bit...off. are they all a bit of a slug off the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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