Numbchux Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 OBD II has the plugs above the passenger side cylinder head. so if the plugs are over by the battery, you're fine. phase II wasn't until 1998 (?), so that's not the right term. dual port was still common on '95s, even though those were OBD II. so that's not a good indicator of OBD I. intake manifold is also pretty different for OBD I vs II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Thanks, 'chux...you confirmed my hopes! I'll be pulling the manifold tonight to get the new harness strapped on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Wow....it didn't fire right up!!! Right now, I have constant power to the L. green wire on the ignition relay, and am not using the fuel pump relay. This is a temp configuration just to hear it run, so that will probably be the next step. The ecm is giving me codes unrelated to those systems though. Am I correct in thinking that any codes you get without using the test connectors are critical for running? I'm now down to just two codes, MAF and knock. The wiring appears to be routed to the correct ecm pins, so they have me a bit stumped. The knock especially, since it is only one wire at the sensor, but two at the ecm. It was slightly frayed at the connector, but I wrapped that up well. Any help will be greatly appreciated...I need to get this car back on the road and return Jeff's loaner very soon! ~E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 The previous questions still apply, but I'm thinking the MAF and knock both would not keep it from running. I checked the fuel pump today, and it runs continuously with the key on...probably because this is a feedback carb model. That makes for some fun in trying to find any info in the books. :-\ I can't even find a relay for it. Now I'm checking all grounds and power to the ecm. All the grounds checked out, as most are routed to the engine harness and should be grounded there. I did find a yellow without power, going to B58#12, but there is no explanation for it in the write-up. What next...any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Go to the FSM section 6-2 to the section on "Engine Electrical (MFPI)" (mine says page 12 at the bottom) It shows pin # b12 (#12 of 12 on the B58 plug) connecting ignition switched power to the fuel pump relay(one side of the relay coil) and the ignition coil. It also shows the other side of the fuel pump relay coil connecting to d23 that grounds the relay coil. I believe yours is wired funny due to the continuous pump operation. (I guess the fuel pump relay contacts could be stuck connected but I doubt that is the case) The FSM selective labeling of the ECU connectors can get a little confusing. (plug "a" one time "B48" the next) Hobart Kennedy's method of labeling the ECU makes it a tad easier by combining the two methods of identifying the various plugs. I hope this helps you get it sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 Runs great now, I had missed a power wire to the ignition coil! Progress here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=909180#post909180 Thanks to all who helped out here, especially 'Chux whose writeup made this even possible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 K, I'm not done with the questions just yet. Yes, it runs and drives but now I need to work out the bugs and wire it properly. First off, I wired in switched power from the ignition switch, and it wouldn't start. Tested all the wires with a MM, and found a switched one, but it just plain don't work...so I'm back to constant power and pulling a battery cable. Second, in trying to locate to stock wire for temp, I may have plugged it into a ground or something. I heard a faint pop possibly, and a change in the engine running. Did I just fry the sensor, or what? And lastly, where should I get vacuum for the heater controls? That said, it's a rocket...sure I'll be replacing the clutch soon!!! Thanx, ~E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 K, I'm not done with the questions just yet. Yes, it runs and drives but now I need to work out the bugs and wire it properly. First off, I wired in switched power from the ignition switch, and it wouldn't start. Tested all the wires with a MM, and found a switched one, but it just plain don't work...so I'm back to constant power and pulling a battery cable. Second, in trying to locate to stock wire for temp, I may have plugged it into a ground or something. I heard a faint pop possibly, and a change in the engine running. Did I just fry the sensor, or what? And lastly, where should I get vacuum for the heater controls? That said, it's a rocket...sure I'll be replacing the clutch soon!!! Thanx, ~E Gonna have to work out the switched power stuff on your own. But for the temp gauge, grounding it shouldn't have blown anything. But I would recommend running a wire seperate from the EJ harness. Put a spade connector on a wire, and run that from the gauge sensor to the temp wire in your original wiring. or alternately.....run the wire all the way to the dash and tap into the temp gauge there. Leave the EJ harness spade unhooked and tape it off. I removed all my cars original wiring except headlight and horns, so I had to run mine to the dash. the reason I suggest this, is that the EJ harness in stock configuration somehow uses the gauge sender as a back up to the ECU's temp sensor. I am pretty sure this is the reason some people have had toroubnle hooking up to the EA gauge with the 270 ohm resistor trick.......the stock harness somehow connects the two EJ sensors together in parallel. I plan on chopping apart an EJ engine harness soon to find and document the splice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow Gloyale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Time to work on getting her out of limp mode, if it's even in it. I'm getting a code for the MAF, and am hoping this is due to mismatched parts. I have a 5 wire connector and MAF, but if I'm correct, there are two different types of them for the early legacys. If the wrong one is used, then the 5th pin will ground out and cause the ecm to freak, so how can I identify and tell the two apart? I'm also getting a knock code, but it looks to be one of the old ones that likes to crack. At least it may be partially working, 'cause I am hearing no pinging or knocking in the least. Performance seems to be great...but this is coming from an EA82. Mainly I'm concerned about the limp 'cause of gas mileage. Just two trips to work, and I've already used a 1/4 tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 21, 2010 Author Share Posted March 21, 2010 Gas mileage isn't that bad, considering the 27" tires. I figured it out today, and put 87 miles on, topped off the tank, and came up with 23 mpg! The MAF is at least doing something, because the car will die when the plug is pulled. So I'm not as concerned with gas/limp mode now...pitch bar and exhaust work next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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