SoobieDoo Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I have and will search for most questions on the swap, but figured that I'd start this thread for the oddballs. Full build here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95517&highlight=trail+wagon I don't even have the parts, yet, but will very soon and I already have questions. First off, I'd like to stick the ECU in an ammo box in the spare tire area. I've already got the stock ecu in the way, so the engine comp. is fine, but I want it waterproofed. The swap alone is a big step, having no disty, so I may as well go full bore. The last thing I want to do is take a fully waterproof ammo box, then ventilate it. Heat is a problemo, you say...why not vent the box into a snorkel? The question I have now, is how to combat the vacuum? I figured that a larger pipe or hose should work fine...say 1-1/2 to 2" would be smaller diameter than the snorkel and easy to tie in. BUT, would the heat draw out from the "ram flow effect" of the snorkel, or would vacuum just keep it in? I'd like to try this out, but with the EJ swap coming fast, will prob just install a bulkhead fitting in the can that I can tie into later. Thanks, and wish me luck! ~Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 I have and will search for most questions on the swap, but figured that I'd start this thread for the oddballs. Full build here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95517&highlight=trail+wagonI don't even have the parts, yet, but will very soon and I already have questions. First off, I'd like to stick the ECU in an ammo box in the spare tire area. I've already got the stock ecu in the way, so the engine comp. is fine, but I want it waterproofed. The swap alone is a big step, having no disty, so I may as well go full bore. The last thing I want to do is take a fully waterproof ammo box, then ventilate it. Heat is a problemo, you say...why not vent the box into a snorkel? The question I have now, is how to combat the vacuum? I figured that a larger pipe or hose should work fine...say 1-1/2 to 2" would be smaller diameter than the snorkel and easy to tie in. BUT, would the heat draw out from the "ram flow effect" of the snorkel, or would vacuum just keep it in? I'd like to try this out, but with the EJ swap coming fast, will prob just install a bulkhead fitting in the can that I can tie into later. Thanks, and wish me luck! ~Eric How can you have a waterproof box that is ventilated? Just be clever and install it in the roof somehow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 How can you have a waterproof box that is ventilated? Just be clever and install it in the roof somehow That sounds like a major PITA! You would have to completely submerge the car to have water go in the snorkel. Some moisture will get in from rain, but should blow right by the bypass for the ammo box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 That sounds like a major PITA! You would have to completely submerge the car to have water go in the snorkel. Some moisture will get in from rain, but should blow right by the bypass for the ammo box. Definitely is a good idea, but the engine bay is pretty shocking for filling up with water when you're in a river over the bonnet (trust me I know, the whole car is ) I personally thing right up under the dash is the best place to put the ECU. If it were easy I'd have put one on my roof ages ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 I don't intend to cross rivers, but $__t happens off road. I think my idea would hold water...or not!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Run the wires into the cabin and put it under the steering column with the stock unit, much safer, drier and out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 When I did my swap I put the ecu right where the stock ea82 one WAS. Meaning I removed it when I did the ej22 electrical changover. I haven't noticed any effect without it, and it makes for just enough room to put the new one in. As far as the rest of the wiring goes it's just kinda piggybacked in with the original one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) Will having those vent tubes and small snorkels will result in their own issues over time? dirt, bugs, weather, snow, ice, water, mud. There's so much wiring behind the dash, is all that getting wet? the instrument cluster, wiring harness, fuse box, blower fan, all sorts of relays, radio. Edited February 12, 2010 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Ammo can vented into cabin , check our scoobyclimbs he did the can thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Will having those vent tubes and small snorkels will result in their own issues over time? dirt, bugs, weather, snow, ice, water, mud. There's so much wiring behind the dash, is all that getting wet? the instrument cluster, wiring harness, fuse box, blower fan, all sorts of relays, radio. Yeah, even properly designed the snorkel will at least pull in dust. Maybe if the vent tube was filtered like the intake, but then it may trap too much heat? Ammo can vented into cabin , check our scoobyclimbs he did the can thing I saw that, very nice work scoobyclimbs! A vent into the cabin would be the cleanest, as long as its large enough. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Run the wires into the cabin and put it under the steering column with the stock unit, much safer, drier and out of the way. agreed. this business with the ammo can just sounds like more work for something that might be as effective.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 How involved would it be to take out the original ECU? I know the fuel pump will no longer be used, but will I be into a lot more splicing and wiring for the original harness? I could use that space in the engine comp. anyway...for a air tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 "involved"? just take it out. 4 plugs and 3 (?) nuts holding it on the steering column. un-plug it, stuff the wires up out of the way, ziptie the EJ one where it was, done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 ^^^^^Exactly what I did..... Easiest part of the install! ^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 It may not be the easiest, or best idea...but I like it. Considering that Rob's old sedan has never even had the ECU enclosed in the spare tire area, I think mine will be fine in the can. No snorkel, though. I'll just leave the lid cracked for ventilation and shut it up watertight for serious swimmin'. The biggest benefit may be no wiring through the firewall and no pulling the instrument cluster!?! Correct me if I'm wrong, but all the instrument wiring is already in the engine comp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 pulling the cluster is independent of the ECU. decent EA82 diagrams are hard to come by. the only one I've found that's 100% reliable is the plugs right at the cluster. also, no. they don't all go to the ECU. temp, oil pressure, and tach signal come from other sources. so you'll be tracking things down from a few places, and size, shape, and quantity of plugs on the rest of the harness changed a few times, so you'll have to be sure to get the right diagrams. I don't know, I haven't done it any other way. but the ones I've done were pretty simple, and had the correct number of surprises (none). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Cool, so if the gauge wires are independent of the ECU anyway, then location of the comp. should be the only difference. I'm using your write-up, Chux, so I'm hoping for that zero failure rate as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Everybody has there likes and dislikes in terms of what type *** work they want to do or what they dread. For me, running wires behind throught he firewall and behind the dash is easier and more elegant than mounting a new box. But I am good with trim tools, wiring diagrahms, and soldering irons. Others feel more comfortable with drills and hammers, and avoiding areas they might not understand (like the nest of spagetti called a harness behind the cluster) If you put the ECU in the Engine bay, you can tap into most wires in the engine bay (power, tach, temp, oil pressure) but you will need to run wires into the cab for ECS light (CEL), The speed sensor, and for the power to the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks Gloyale, I think that's what I'll do. Made some progress on the harness today. It's slow work, especially since nothing was marked, but it's a start. I started on the dash side wiring, and got all the plugs marked except for those that pass through the center firewall and instrument cluster. Those sections are still intact, but I have been cutting some cruise wires going into the firewall. I'm assuming at this point that everything there will be plugged into the engine, so is it a safe bet that I can just use process of elimination there to thin it out? I also have no clue how to identify the needed wires for the cluster. Any thoughts? ~Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks Gloyale, I think that's what I'll do. Made some progress on the harness today. It's slow work, especially since nothing was marked, but it's a start. I started on the dash side wiring, and got all the plugs marked except for those that pass through the center firewall and instrument cluster. Those sections are still intact, but I have been cutting some cruise wires going into the firewall. I'm assuming at this point that everything there will be plugged into the engine, so is it a safe bet that I can just use process of elimination there to thin it out? I also have no clue how to identify the needed wires for the cluster. Any thoughts? ~Eric Nevermind...figured it out meself. I could use some input on what can be eliminated from the center firewall harness. I'll only be using the ac pump for onboard air , so that wiring can go...anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 bump... Guess I'll just have a fat harness, as the FSM doesn't really identify any of the plugs. I'm now onto stripping the fuse box out, is it fine to eliminate all of that wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrettenmayer Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 They should be identified by shape and color on the bottom of the FSM pages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 They should be identified by shape and color on the bottom of the FSM pages. It didn't make any sense to me why subaru would label each plug but not identify them, until I downloaded the full FSM and saw the missing pages. I was starting to wonder if I'd get any important questions answered, since the ammo box fiasco, so thanks for clearing that up man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 I just ran into this situation : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68357&highlight=obd* My harness and ECU were taken from a different car than the engine, so the harness has three plugs at the battery, and the engine harness has two. It's extra work that I wasn't prepared for, but I can put a 3-plug harness on the engine, just so long as it really is a '94 and OBDI. How many plugs are there for the OBDII's, and is there another way to identify the engine? Thanks, ~E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Bump. So I found the dual port heads mean it's likely phase I...anything else a good identifier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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