stealth Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 i always guot an eye for the classics , altho i did think it was a toytoa at 1st, then went back...seen it was suby and thouhgt...im going to own one of them one day! and now i do-ish...(waiting for it to arrive) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 kiwi - when did they stop putting the tighter bumpers on in NZ? Over here '74 + had the fat square "shocked" fugly bumpers. Jose,did you also get the engine tranny manual from the same guy? I'll try to dig one up and help. I do have the factory parts manual here if that helps. And yes, go to disks in front at least. There's even a crate engine or two out there. Some showed up recently in CO and near Sacramento CA , and I'm pretty sure there's still one near Sane Diego too. Those copper rings - shims - people are talking about go under the cylinder liners. Not in gasket kits. Very hard to find. Sorry, I'm not giving up the few I have but if you check a FPM they list the sizes and making shims shouldn't be all too hard if you know a machinist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacobeagle Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Datsun- thanks for the specs. Moosens- I'll be on the hunt for some front discs and proportioning valve as well. I'm glad to have seen the vid. See, there is a vacuum line coming from the air cleaner(about 11 o'clock) that I have nothing there. So at least, by looking at the vid I have an idea of where that line goes to(pass. side shock area). I really don't think I'm going to use the OEM hubcaps.....I only have three anyhow. PM me and we can work something out, I have no idea what you are talking about with those copper rings. A crate motor would be AWESOME. Also, how can I correctly find the paint for the air cleaner? Thanks again everyone, this is great. Oh, I bought the book from another vendor. Still waiting to hear from the guy with the engine book. Jose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Those copper rings - shims - people are talking about go under the cylinder liners. Not in gasket kits. Very hard to find. Sorry, I'm not giving up the few I have but if you check a FPM they list the sizes and making shims shouldn't be all too hard if you know a machinist. Yeah, that would be easy to do. If there are some people interested, I could run a batch of them. Will- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsunrides Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 If you do decide to stay with the stock hubcaps, there are a few on eBay. (been hearing that alot). the engine you have is a "wet" sleeve motor, that is the bores that the piston rides in is replaceable, unlike a "normal" or dry sleeve motor that the bores are part of the block. Since the sleeves are not part of the block, there need to be a seal between them and the block, to keep the water out, hence the copper rings. For the air cleaner paint, it seems to be very close to the color Datsun used. I believe you can buy rattle can paint from classic datsun motorsports. Or, take it to a local paint shop. I think most have the capability to color match and provide it in a rattle can also. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I'm glad to have seen the vid. See, there is a vacuum line coming from the air cleaner(about 11 o'clock) that I have nothing there. So at least, by looking at the vid I have an idea of where that line goes to(pass. side shock area). OK I'll skip the old Hose A and Hose B joke 'cause you've probably heard it enough already:grin: But seriously,there's 2 large diameter hoses that go from the air cleaner to the rocker covers. Smaller diam. could be to T fitting,disty,control valve assy.,...I'm going to attempt to scan from the FPM with the exploded views, after this post. I really don't think I'm going to use the OEM hubcaps.....I only have three anyhow. PM me and we can work something out, I have no idea what you are talking about with those copper rings. I'll scan those too. they're under the inserted cylinder liners since these blocks are not bored for piston travel. A crate motor would be AWESOME. Also, how can I correctly find the paint for the air cleaner? Earl,a.k.a. "pooparoo" has a pretty decent match and has some left sitting on his shelf. He offered at something like $15 a piece to shoot,but don't quote me on that. I'm thi9nking about prepping and send him some items too. He kind of over did it shooting some items on his Brat that were never that color but they look kind of cool. Mostly we need that blue for the air cleaner and rocker covers for later 70's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Well,I figured out scanner. I'll do what I can for now. This is non Cali. The Cali. cars have an EGR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 This is for the Coupe but it'll help you with the cowl. I need to clear out some pics so I can add more scans. Also need to run some errands and get to sleep so you might see more or might not ...untill later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 1400 engine,same as 1300 and 1100 ,but what happened in most people's opinion is that Subaru bored out the 1300 and it left too little material to properly handle these "rattling cans" so the 1400's were notorious for headgasket issues if not outright head warpage. Liners shook loose. Part # 8 is the copper ring we're talking about. Located in this pic on the driver's side incase the numbers are too tiny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 See that small diameter passage coming up into the air cleaner? Could that be what you're supposed to be connected to? I think that goes to the T fitting,but maybe Subafreak can verify or one of the FEW other 1400 guys here. Only have this manual for reference right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) Does this have the "city horn , country horn" pull out switch left of the steering column? I'm pretty sure they only had those for '74 and '75 Party over for me, I need to sleep. See you later from work or tomorrow. Cheers! Edited February 15, 2010 by moosens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealth Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 moosens what manual is that out off.. gunna have to get me one of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Factory Parts Manual - US/CN version Gotta love exploded views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealth Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 yeah they are a great view...going to hunt for a manual now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hey guys, I'll try and add a little info on doing an EA81 disc conversion up fromt. I did it on my old '79 wagon and am not sure how different the front suspension setups are vs. the older ones but lets give it a shot. I use the EA81 control arm minus the radius rod and it bolted into the engine crossmember. Then I took some round stock (not sure on the size since it was years ago when I did this) but it was roughly the same size as factory. I measured and cut 2 pieces the same length as the gen 1 radius rods, threw them into a metal lathe, turned down one end on each one the same size as the threaded end. I then cut threads into them and used just some standard threaded nuts and washers for it. I then took these pieces, bolted them into the car at the radius rod mounts, bolted the EA81 control arms in and set the weight of the vehicle down onto the control arms until both pieces were touching. Tack welded the pieces together (just like the factory gen 1 control arms), pulled them out and laid down some nice, strong welds to hold the pieces together. Then painted them black to prevent them from rusting and after the "new" control arms were bolted back into the car, I attached the EA81 knuckles and vented disc brakes in. I also used the factory gen 1 struts but the gen 2 struts should be used. I don't know if the tophats are different between the gen 1s and the gen 2s. Here are some pics of the build. After the rods were made and bolted into the car, ready for welding (the suspension is currently unloaded which is why its not lined up) Tack welded and ready for disassembly and final welding (suspension is currently loaded) Making the threads on my "custom" holder, aka the hole for the handle on my engine stand and a pair of vise grips The car sitting back on 4 wheels with EA81 parts up front. I had also cut 3 coils out of the front to lower it and I was planning on reclocking the torsion bars to drop the ride height in the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) Hey guys, I'll try and add a little info on doing an EA81 disc conversion up fromt. I did it on my old '79 wagon and am not sure how different the front suspension setups are vs. the older ones but lets give it a shot. There would be a lot more work required to do this conversion on a 1974 sedan as they do not have radius rods like the later models, hence no mounting for the 'rods' in the body. Edited February 16, 2010 by Leeroy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacobeagle Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Okay, here goes a serious question. What are the chances of taking an 81-82 Brat floor pan, drivetrain and have it welded into my '74 chassis? I know it's a big undertaking. I may have found one at the back of used car lot. It's rusty and has the fenders removed as well as the front glass. This model is a t-tops and those are in decent condition. I will post pics of the Brat if I get it. If I do, my plan is to somehow transfer everything off the Brat and have it put on the '74. This would be EPIC. 1.8l 70+hp motor & AWD!!! This would solve some much. Then it would be off to paint. Hee Hee Hee. Jose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Yikes! I think you have a better chance of location an early Coupe with the disks. Coupes had them from '72 up. T-tops means its a Gen II from 1982-87. Not sure but seems like there'll be a LOT of work there. So,did any of that scanning help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacobeagle Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 I'm gonna have to get your phone number and call you. I did find a 91 loyale wagon AWD 5spd at the Pull-a-part today. I was wondering if the front brakes would work. I haven't looked at those scans, but I did save the images to my computer. Should be helpful. The vacuum line I'm speaking of is a regular small size(same as vacuum advance) and comes out of the air cleaner housing at about 11 o'clock. From there I have no idea where it's supposed to go. Jose 251-382-7342cell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subafreak Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I'm gonna have to get your phone number and call you. I did find a 91 loyale wagon AWD 5spd at the Pull-a-part today. I was wondering if the front brakes would work. I haven't looked at those scans, but I did save the images to my computer. Should be helpful. The vacuum line I'm speaking of is a regular small size(same as vacuum advance) and comes out of the air cleaner housing at about 11 o'clock. From there I have no idea where it's supposed to go. Jose 251-382-7342cell Well on mine i dont have an air cleaner (Paul?) But i do have a small diamiter vacume line comming from the firewall around the area of the fuel pump that is just hanging there and has no home that i can find so i assumed it must go to the intake. It's the fuel vapor hose from the gas tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subafreak Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Yeah that little black hose thing comming out from behind the right strut tower area next to the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi subbie Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 So has any one up graded the brakes on a 1400 coupe to some off a leone with vented disks? Thats something I was thinking of doing on the GSR eventually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well on mine i dont have an air cleaner (Paul?) But i do have a small diamiter vacume line comming from the firewall around the area of the fuel pump that is just hanging there and has no home that i can find so i assumed it must go to the intake. It's the fuel vapor hose from the gas tank. errr,uhhh, geez I can't remember for sure but if it wasn't in the trunk it must be back in my storage. THat's the wingnut type,right? Like in the scans? I might have a couple extras this spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacobeagle Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well on mine i dont have an air cleaner (Paul?) But i do have a small diamiter vacume line comming from the firewall around the area of the fuel pump that is just hanging there and has no home that i can find so i assumed it must go to the intake. It's the fuel vapor hose from the gas tank. Perfrect, sounds like the culprit alright. I'll double check it tonight. I had to take the battery for charge. Luckly for me Autozone checks and charges them for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacobeagle Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 A small victory....I managed to find the Haynes manual on Craigslist for $5! Well, it arrived yesterday and I now have all sorts of specs for various engines. Having these specs I decided to take a look at why my engine ran like a turd. I double check spark plug gap and points gap. I also verified that the ignition wires were in the correct order. Finally, I adjusted the "octane selector" to the middle. That final adjustment was the key. She now starts without having to spray fluid down the carb and she'll also stay running.:banana: Only thing is now I hear an odd noise which I think is the water pump. Oh, I added an air filter and changed the oil. I'm so excited!!! Up next......brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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