Car has been running rough recently. Will be great for a while and then it sputters and sometimes just dies. More often it drives just like it always has. It only seems to do this at low rpm/light throttle. But not always, more like 10% of the time. Seems like its slowly getting worse though.

 

Pulled the codes today and got a 22 23 and 35.

 

22 should be taken car of (replaced the knock sensor)

 

35 is just the purge thing.

 

23 is what has me worried. Does this mean my maf is toast?

 

Also, with regards to the knock sensor, i replaced it a couple weeks ago in an effort to increase my slowly declining mileage. It helped, maybe just a bit but the code is still there. Should it go away on its own or do i have to clear it?

 

Thanks guys, you keep my car running!

Bump

 

Tomorrow i should be able to get my hands on another used maf, but they don't take returns so any insight would be helpful.

 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Jared

I had the same problem with my old 91 a few years ago. Was also throwing a code 23, replaced the MAF and was good to go.

 

Here is my old thread:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83464

Sweet, thanks! That gives me some hope. I have the code 35 too. Need to wire up a resistor and get that cleared.

 

If anyone has any more info i would love to hear it.

 

Is there a way to field test a maf? Buying used and with my luck i will surely get a bad one at least once

Suddenly 3 months ago my OBS would not idle for more than 10 mins before dying out. It did not leave the driveway. I finally bought an OBD scanner 2 weeks ago and then last week I ordered a used MAF off Ebay, it arrived Saturday and today is the 3rd day that I have used that car. I bought another MAF last night as a backup to carry in the car (you can swap one out in 5 mins. at roadside if needed) and maybe I will get a 3rd one to keep on hand! Total investment including shipping so far, $39 for 2. Worth the gamble? I think so!

 

The code will not clear on its own. It stays in memory until cleared. Disconnect the negative battery cable AFTER you make any repairs to erase the code. If the problem persists that code will come back.

Best I can offer is page 72,section 2-7 in part 2 of the ej-22 manual here

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

 

Might want to look at the ea-82 maf stuff too.

That service manual is super nifty, thanks for that link!

 

Seems that i have no good way to field test a MAF, at least not that they specify.

 

Looks like i will just start collecting them

You can try some MAF spray cleaner by CRC and see if the sensor is just dirty. I got my can at Advance Auto Parts prior to sending for the part. Obviously a dirty sensor was not my problem.

Not that I recommend doing this but, you can tap on the MAF with the handle of a screwdriver and see if the idle changes. If you do go to the junk yard for a MAF, make sure and leave the upper portion of the air box on. This makes for a quick swap in the junk yard parking lot. My mechanic also told me to make sure the part numbers match up on them, not sure if the auto got a different one from the 5 speed.

gonna pick up two used-but-pulled-from-running-car Maf's from a local wrecking place today.

 

It was 1 for 75 or two for 100 so might as well have a spare.

 

Wish i could find them cheaper though.

http://car-part.com/