coldfusion21

The power wire feeding the fuses was totally the issue!! Thanks a lot for that hint. Once I started poking around the fuses it was pretty obvious, wire was heavily corroded and had severally overheated. Gonna try and find a suitable donor tomorrow at the pick n pull, along with a faulty taillight harness. Thanks guys, really appreciate the help and hints.

Bulbs are not burned out (or rather they've been replaced with new with no change) It's an auto. I guess my question is what actuates the switch? And it sounds like what I thought was two switches is actually one assembly with multiple contacts? Sorry for all the questions but I don't have access to the car currently and once I do I wanna be able to get to the bottom of this ASAP. Dealer quoted 140 for a new one so I wanna be sure there's not something else going on before I order that.

Sorry to bump such an old thread but I've got a similar question. It looks like the switches for both the backup lights and neutral safety are internal to the transmission? I have a 90 legacy with no reverse lights and intermittent neutral safety starting issues (moving the shifter around gets it to start) could this be a power/ground issue to both switches or are they just both failing? Car has 300k so wouldn't be surprised if they are just worn out.

I didn't see the other response thanks for reposting that. I'll have to carefully examine those wires. As for your reply Ivan: You think all those things went bad at once? This was a turn the car on and one day "x" didn't work sorta deal. Blower relay was checked and is good, blower is getting 12v (signaling the relay is working as well) Blower works well when supplied with 12v outside the car Will check hazards in the am and report back! Thanks again for all the help, I'm gonna get this figured out!

Bump. So far its been a year almost and I'm ready to fix this for good. Plus it's getting cold again! So to recap, no blower, no horn and the shift lock don't work, all stopped working at the same time. I figure it must be a bad ground or a broken wire or something. Blower motor works fine when powered outside the car and is getting 12v at the connector.

Can someone expand on the notching? Getting ready to change transfer clutch assembly on a 1990 legacy. No torque bind that I recognize. On gravel or snow I seem to have fwd only. Sounds like the duty c solenoid might be a good idea while I'm in there? Thanks for all the help.

I have a 1990 legacy with a confusing issue. Over the last 18 months the blower would stop working for a couple days to a couple weeks and then start working again, usually before I had a chance to investigate. About two or three times ago I (10-12 months ago) it was non working long enough for me to pull the blower. It was full of leafs and debris. I cleaned it inside and out and bam worked again. For a couple months. Around this time I connected the blower issues to the shift lock issues (have to push shift lock button to shift) to a non working horn. About a month ago it all stopped working again and this time it seems to be permanent. Blower is clean and when jumped to straight 12v, it works just fine. Blower connector is getting 12v whenever fan is on, yet the blower doesn't work. Relay has been bypassed with no change. I have some wiring diagrams off alldata but they are hard to follow and I'm having trouble making use of them. Fuses appear all good. I can't find any link between the three functions, so is this just bad luck or is there something that all these functions share? I know someone out there has my answer, thanks for your guys help in advance! Jared

I will be checking both of those asap but if it's a fuse wouldn't it just work or not work? The relays could be an issue for sure. Any suggestions where to start? I'm not familiar with all the relays and locations. Thanks guys. This legacy has 285k and counting thanks to US.

Im gonna bump this. 90 legacy wagon, auto. Blower will stop working, along with the horn and shift lock. Every time one stops working they all stop working. I didnt think the shift lock was related and pulled the blower motor out and cleaned it and replaced, all was well for a month or so. Now its been 3-5 days of mostly not working and i discovered the horn is not working either. Thoughts? Thanks for any ideas.

awesome info guys! im gonna hunt down a set of rails and swap to newer injectors for sure now! Can someone take a pic of a old style rail next to a new style? I wanna make sure i got the right parts. I just bumped another thread on this same topic, maybe i should post a link to this thread as well for anyone that goes looking in the future?

sorry to bump an old thread but this seemed like a good place to ask about first gen legacy injector differences. I have a 1990 legacy AT. I need to source some injectors for it, but have been told that 90 injectors commonly fail and are specific to that model year only, hence making them rare on the used market. I wanna know what other injectors will work with my car, including the AT vs MT thing. i went and looked up some injectors on rockauto and noticed the AT injectors were almost double the MT ones... If other injectors will work i will likely source a good used set, hopefully from mountain tech.

Pictures, awesome! Yes it is auto, edited the original post to clarify. So the tailshaft housing comes off and that contains the clutches? It sounds like you sourced some used ones off a tranny you had around, can they be had new? Is that the duty "C" solenoid everyone speaks of? Does the tranny puke all of its fluid when doing this? I hate auto tranny fluid, looks like i'm gonna be bathing in it doing this job. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure out all the details before i get knee deep.

I have a 91 legacy automatic that i've been driving for a while, done a few rally cross events with and do some logging road exploring with as well. Recently on a trip into the woods i wanted to test my traction on the gravel up a real steep slope. Imagine my surprise when only one front wheel was spinning. I tested this out on some other areas and it seems like my awd car is now a fwd car. Question: Is this the result of heavy wear on the clutches that transfer power to the rear? The car has 252k on it and i drive it hard, so i wouldn't be shocked if this was the case. No, the FWD light wasn't on, just so no one asks. If it is the clutches are these an item that can be replaced separately? Can i do it without pulling the tranny? Its not something i'm concerned about right now, but rally cross season is quickly approaching and i would like to fix it by then. Thanks in advance. Jared

gonna pick up two used-but-pulled-from-running-car Maf's from a local wrecking place today. It was 1 for 75 or two for 100 so might as well have a spare. Wish i could find them cheaper though.

That service manual is super nifty, thanks for that link! Seems that i have no good way to field test a MAF, at least not that they specify. Looks like i will just start collecting them

Sweet, thanks! That gives me some hope. I have the code 35 too. Need to wire up a resistor and get that cleared. If anyone has any more info i would love to hear it. Is there a way to field test a maf? Buying used and with my luck i will surely get a bad one at least once

Bump Tomorrow i should be able to get my hands on another used maf, but they don't take returns so any insight would be helpful. Thanks in advance. Jared

Car has been running rough recently. Will be great for a while and then it sputters and sometimes just dies. More often it drives just like it always has. It only seems to do this at low rpm/light throttle. But not always, more like 10% of the time. Seems like its slowly getting worse though. Pulled the codes today and got a 22 23 and 35. 22 should be taken car of (replaced the knock sensor) 35 is just the purge thing. 23 is what has me worried. Does this mean my maf is toast? Also, with regards to the knock sensor, i replaced it a couple weeks ago in an effort to increase my slowly declining mileage. It helped, maybe just a bit but the code is still there. Should it go away on its own or do i have to clear it? Thanks guys, you keep my car running!

Ok. Changed knock sensor. Averaged 20 mpg over 300+ miles. Sounds ok, but not what the car was like when purchased. 24-26 mpg was common. 20mpg for a first gen with studs sound normal? O2 is next on the list.

Sorry i wasnt more clear, I'm curious how the light itself is mounted to the cross bar. I think that plus the waterproof connectors is a great idea. Thanks!

What about those lower ones? Are they just mounted into the bumper? While i have no reason to avoid drilling into the roof i do think the cross bar thing is best. how did you mount yours nipper?

Ok, I won't use them on the road. I mean, i still might, but thats not the primary purpose for these lights. Any more advice on MOUNTING the lights, instead of using them? Its a first gen legacy and is my DD right now, so i don't wanna mount some huge lights on the bumper...But might look into that. Pics of any lights mounted?

I figured this would be the best place to put this. I wanna mount some big driving lights because my high beams just don't cut it. I have lots of bits for a yakima rack setup and was gonna buy a basket to use their light mounts, but that is all fairly expensive, would rather use the money on the lights. So, two ideas. One is make some sort of mount to hold the lights on one of the cross bars for the rack. The other (which is more tempting) is to just mount the lights right on the top of the car. Drill some holes and then all the wiring would be sealed and everything. Downside would be figuring out how to gain access to the headliner area without tons of work. I want these to not only be bright and good for off-road but would like them to be aimed well enough to use them while driving highway speeds on open road. Thoughts? Pics of lights mounted to your guys cars?

:mad: Car started overheating tonight. Hoping its just a thermostat or something. Just did the head gaskets a couple thousand miles ago. Super bummed guys. Take pics! I will be there next time.

Power output seems ok. maybe a bit on the low side, but ok. Plugs were done recently, wires i haven't done, so atleast 10k miles or so. Probably been a long time on those guys. Idles ok, probably could use a IAC cleaning though. Its my DD, but i drive my cars pretty hard... Ran a can of seafoam through the fuel system shortly before changing the fuel filter, that was done in the last 4k or so. Will do knock sensor soon, run a tank through and see what happens. Will report back