coldfusion21

Just buzzed mine off no problems with an impact. Same with crank and drive plate bolts. EJ22 though.

My apologies. I would guess (not at the house) 1/4" od? pretty small. quantity of two, so i would ASSume one for each head?

Alright guys, motor is out, heads are at the shop being cleaned and skimmed. In my top end kit i have two blue o rings that I cant identify. Any thoughts? been quite the learning experience, especially the bellhousing bolts. used a ratcheting wrench with a 3/8ths drive converter and a standard 12mm socket. And i have all the AC hoses, compressor and condenser for the car torn out too, should save a few pounds and open up the engine bay a bit. So i notice that the rear seal on one side of the head has a back plate or cover and the other side doesn't, is this normal?

Thats awesome, i cant wait to do this swap. Would there be any advantage to using the OBW springs?

Ya, it has everything from the valve covers to the head gaskets. Valve stem seals intake gasket all that stuff. I already have the kit, and i can't return it so it looks like i'm using the aftermarket gaskets. Probably gonna copper spray them and cross my fingers.

Alright guys got a new front main seal, timing belt, water pump, alt/PS belt and the top end kit. Gasket set is made by stevens, never heard of them. it was ~150 at my local import auto parts place. Total for everything (with a can of PB blaster and some shop towels) was 230. Not to bad. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to get separator plate and screws. Hopefully tomorrow mid day i have the engine out. Any last words of advice? Thanks for all your guys help.

Well, I have an oily film in my coolant, my car overheats and when it does so i have a large air pocket in my cooling system. See this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104607 I'm almost certain its the head gaskets. No external coolant leaks to speak of. The oil seeping is a different and probably completely separate issue. I just wanna make sure I seal up as much stuff as i can while i have the thing hanging in front of me. It is an auto, so if the torque converter moves I have no way of re-seating it? I've messed with torque converters before, always have been a pain, but never trashed one or a tranny yet. How serious should i be about using some sort of retainer to hold the converter in place? Already have a good OEM thermostat. Heads are gonna be 20 or so each to machine flat and clean, all the gaskets should be under 200. So where can i find a re-sealed motor with fresh head gaskets for under 300? Point is, I'm sure I can't. Maybe i get lucky and find a yard with one for 200, but i still would want to go through everything and i know this motor runs, pretty well for its age, and has no other serious issues. Thanks for all the pointers guys, this is my first Subaru motor pull so I wanna make sure I'm ready so I can keep to my schedule. Trying to keep this to a long weekend (this Thursday through Sunday)

My apologies, I thought i had mentioned that in the OP. I have a leaky head gasket and that is the primary goal. Engine seeps oil so hopefully i can fix that as well. Timing belt has no record, so that is a must as well. I will be removing my AC as well. Its a R12 system and I would only try and use it a couple times a year. It didn't work in the 106 degree heat last summer and that's when i wanted it. It hardly works when its 70 out. So that will clean up the engine a bunch.

Well, the engine has 244k on it, and doesn't leak real bad but it seems like a lot of work to fix in the future. I've done main seals before without problems. Is this a common suggestion? Edit: thanks for the info on the separator plate. If mine is indeed plastic, can the dealer supply a metal one for cheap? How about the screws? Or should i find one online?

I will be pulling the motor in my 90 legacy this week, hopefully will be straight forward. I was hoping someone who has done this before can give me a list of the gaskets and oil seals i should be replacing. Tomorrow I'm gonna pick up the top end seal kit which hopefully has most everything, for 150 bucks it better! But I figure i will still have to replace the timing belt, front and rear main seals and an oil pan gasket in addition to everything in the top end kit. Any more suggestions while I'm in there? Trying to keep this low cost, so no bearings or rings. Also I read something about replacing an oil separator plate with an aluminum one, does this apply to my engine? Thanks guys.

Ok, I'll bite. I'm in Portland too, how much can get you get these for? I would have to do a bit more research but I'm gonna be pulling my ej22 for a head gasket and have always wanted a D/R subie. I'm assuming adapter plate+some sort of axle swap?

It wasn't purchased at the dealer but i was told it was OEM. Looked way better then the one it replaced. Was installed the only way it fit.

Well, the body is trashed and the interior leaves a bit to be desired. But its my only (sorta) running car now. I will probably end up doing the gaskets myself. Is this a pull the engine for sure kinda deal?

sorry i guess i more so meant is this a test you can buy or is it something special a shop can only do? That sounds like the ticket if i can get my hands on one. Well i know the 2.5 has headgasket issues but this isnt a 2.5 and its much older so i think that opens it up to other issues like a clogged radiator or something along those lines.

Haven't messed with the hoses, but they all seem to be in decent condition, not spongy or anything. Whats this hydrocarbon test you speak of?

Ok, well i get good water pump flow, and the random-ness of this problem has lead me to believe water pump is not the issue. car is high mileage, 244k. the proper coolant mix has also not always been followed... fans kick on strong, run for just a bit and kick off when the car is functioning normal. I frequently hear them running when it over heats too. I think that system is ok. Air over the radiator has always felt a bit cold. I'm not sure that it isn't consuming any coolant. I get some light steam out the back and due to it overheating it fills the expansion tank and doesnt always suck it all back in. so it can be hard to keep an eye on. but if it is consuming coolant its not much. the car runs great, doesnt leak at all on the ground.

Car is a 1990 Subaru legacy. ej22 2.2 liter motor. Thermostat went tits up. Pulled it to make sure that was the problem, sure enough without a thermostat it would heat up real slowly and maybe get close to operating temp in the summer. Well i decided just to leave it that way for a couple months. Fast forward to September where the car never heats up and i have no heat most of the time. I replace the thermostat with an OE one. Do a decent bleed and all seems well for one full week. Then i start to get random overheats. Car will be at operating temp for 5 minutes or maybe 20 minutes then the heat cuts out and the temp gauge starts to rise. If i let it idle it cools back down. Radiator cap is brand new. Just did a compression test today, 160-175 on all four. Bled the system pretty well the other day, per all the subaru forum instructions and it ran for about 15 miles before overheating. Did a half rump roast job today and it has been fine all day. Last thing i need to check into is flushing my radiator to see if its clogged. No oil in water or water in oil either. Anyone else have any ideas? I'm about ready to pull my thermostat again, but i really do like my heater...

Cobalt would be your best bet. Carbide would be ideal but without good feed and speed control its not really feasible. I would buy a nice set from a reputable machine tool retailer. ENCO is a popular one, they are connected to MSC and generally have a good monthly sale flyer with some kind of drill sets. The suggestion for tapping fluid or some kind of cutting oil is a good one, especially on hardened steel. Heat is your enemy.

Hmm, i have never came across a car that halfway was to hot. How sure are you about that? OK, so new gauge to verify water temp. Where is the most accurate place to have the sender? I am used to a single head, and would assume that would be the spot, but not so sure here. Its a 5 speed, so none of that automatic BS to worry about. So, timing+coolant flush+T-stat. New radiator? I would prefer to avoid that, due to cost, how likely is it that its causing an issue for me? Whats the going rate on a good radiator? Is there a "good" one to get or are they all the same?

Temp is always good, gauge stays halfway after a normal warm-up period. No problems with stop and go traffic, or a hard run down the freeway. I will give it a go, but i tend to mix my gas anyways (buying from different stations) i will try and stick with a chevron close by for a couple tanks.

plugs wires cap and rotor were all done within the last 10k miles, by a shop for the PO. I guess i need to start by doing all of that again, to be sure. I ran two cans of seafoam through the gas, that actually seemed to help. I don't use cheap gas, or rather the cheap gas i use runs just fine with all my other cars... Timing i haven't checked. I know that sounds stupid given my current issues but i just moved and my timing light is MIA. That will be my next check for sure. Any other thoughts?

So my DL wagon detonates like crazy at low rpm/mid to heavy throttle and mid/high RPM at light throttle. So there is a very small range that it likes. Normally i would attribute this to something else, as detonation seems like a pretty odd thing in an NA car, but it likes high octane gas alot more (premium is a must for any power) and a few days ago it was really cold at night (20-30F) and it ran like a champ. So, what could be causing this o great Subaru gods? TIA Jared

I'm sure you guys sure get sick of being asked questions about the CEL, seems like there is always a ton of questions relating to it, but know i have my own. So its an 89, so i should have green and black connectors near the brake booster in the engine bay? To check codes, the green connectors should be together? What do the black ones do? When i just went and looked, it seems that both and green and the black were just sitting connected and thats how i have been driving it. The fuel pump cycles with the key on, with both sets of connectors unplugged and plugged in.

I think he's talking about the tool for pushing the piston(s?) back so the fresh pads have room to clear the calipers. Hillholder? I've never heard of such a thing. its disabled anyways, but hows it suppose to work?

Well i noticed something interesting today. First off, the rattle/clicking happened with the car not moving. It sounds like its coming from the tranny tunnel area. Also, i will try and get a pic of it, but what is the cable going from the brake junction block to the clutch? Its not connected on my car...