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I need a new carb.


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Looking for a weber. i'm gonna need everything for it. the adapter plate for a ea81 from a 85 brat, a rebuild kit if necessary. maybe a manual. it has a right side throttle cable. I live in the Portland area. anybody know of one of these around or know of some good places to look for one? thanks a bunch.

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You are better off buying a kit with a brand new carb and adaptor plate included. By the time you figure the cost of the used carb, the adaptor plate, the rebuild kit, some jet changes, and possibly a choke change you will be at or near $200 and a lot more labor. The kit will be jetted, the carb will have no throttle shaft wear - overall it's a much better option for very little more money and a ton less work and hair-pulling. The kits can be had near or slightly over $300.

 

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Discount Import Parts can get them but will still have to order the kit and that can take a day or two. Personally I don't lilke the Redline kit as well as what carbsunlimited.com can build for you. Call them and tell them what you need. If your car isn't lifted let them know you need the "short" air filter or they will give you the tall one that won't fit under the hood. You can also specify what type of choke you want, etc. With the redline kit you don't get that choice. I prefer the manual choke DGV-5A.

 

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I just found this article about tuning carbs. This is the guy who jetted my Weber, and he's very respected in the VeeDub community. I got the Redline kit and jetting made it run so much better.

 

Anyway, I've been wondering about the gasket at the top of my carb being gas soaked. The article mentions the need to check and possibly regulate fuel pressure. I've seen no mention of it here on the board, but there are people getting lots better mileage from their Weber equipped EA81s than the mid 20s I get.

 

Hopefully, this will help others with the Weber upgrade as well. Could I swap out my aftermarket pump that shoots too much pressure for a factory pump and solve the problem? Or do I need to pony up the cash and install a pressure regulator? If I use a regulator, will it simply hold the built up pressure in the line behind it? Or does it need a return line? While I'm at it, did I mess up by not installing a return line to the carb?

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Hopefully, this will help others with the Weber upgrade as well. Could I swap out my aftermarket pump that shoots too much pressure for a factory pump and solve the problem? Or do I need to pony up the cash and install a pressure regulator?

 

Factory pumps seem to work just fine on the Weber. Pressure regulator would do the trick as well. Regulators are cheap - like $25 to $35.

 

If I use a regulator, will it simply hold the built up pressure in the line behind it? Or does it need a return line?

 

Depends on the regulator. Inexpensive one's just drop the pressure. More involved unit's are capable of returning excess to the tank - usually one's that are designed to raise the pressure via a vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold (often used for forced induction).

 

While I'm at it, did I mess up by not installing a return line to the carb?

 

I've used it on some and not on other's. Doesn't seem to matter much either way.

 

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im using a stock fuel pump relocated under the hood on my weber, no regulator and it seems fine, i have a toggle switch to operate my pump and forgot to turn it off a few times, letting it pump all night, started rite up, didn't flood or anything.

 

I love my webber! by far the best single upgrade i have done to my subie!

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im using a stock fuel pump relocated under the hood on my weber, no regulator and it seems fine, i have a toggle switch to operate my pump and forgot to turn it off a few times, letting it pump all night, started rite up, didn't flood or anything.

 

I love my webber! by far the best single upgrade i have done to my subie!

 

 

None of that is a good idea - the pump being on a toggle switch is a fire hazzard in a wreck or when left on overnight :rolleyes: - at the very least it should be on an ignition switched relay with proper fusing. And the pump should be back by the tank as they are more efficient (last longer) when they are pushing the fuel as opposed to pulling it.

 

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