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ej22 swap clutch question


obk25xt
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I have a question, and I have used the search function! (love that thing!) I have an ej22/5mt d/r setup in my lifted wagon. I am going to replace the clutch as I feel like it's time, especially after the clutch smoke-show at sand lake! My question is this, can't I buy a performance clutch for say, a legacy or an impreza or basically anything that uses a 225mm (8 7/8"), 25 spline 1" shaft? I've been looking on ebay and finding some discs fairly reasonably priced that are 6/12 puck, dual friction, ceramic and organic material. I realize that some of these options may be a little overkill for the stock ej22 but I'm looking for a little more holding force than the stock ea82 disc/pp. I am going to have my flywheel resurfaced and the pp step taken down as well. Does anyone have experience with this? I would like to get some feedback and or suggestions from people who have experience with this. Thanks in advance, Spencer

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Ok, so I searched again (I guess it could be called re-search!) and found tons of info. Thanks for the reply I try not to ask questions that have already been answered, sometimes I'm a little slow in finding the correct info. Thanks to all who have traveled this path before me to prove that it can be done! I'm thinking... Re-machine ea82 flywheel to xt6 specs, lighten a few lbs. and put an aftermarket ej disc in it. The xt6 pressure plate is what I'm having difficulty finding by itself. Is the difference in clamping force due to the difference in flywheel step? Or is it actually a different pp? Would a turbo pp compare more to an n/a ea82 one or an xt6 one? Does anyone have a part # of the different pressure plates ala carte? (not in a kit!). thanks, Spencer

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i don't know answers to any of your questions - but some of the huge vendors on ebay will piece together kits for you if you call and ask them. some of us do it for timing belt kits "I'd like these two style pulleys with an idler gear and tensioner" - eventhough none of their pre-packaged kits are like that.

 

eventhough this is across different styles, once you figure out what combination you want it might be worth a call to see if they can do the same with clutch parts since you're looking at EA, ER, and EJ stuff.

 

i think the import experts might be one of them, i can't ever remember their names. folks like davebugs has mentioned it several times in threads regarding timing components.

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Now I've searched several parts manufacturer sites and am coming up with the same kit #'s for the xt6 and loyale/gl/gl10 etc. this is getting really confusing. So I'm figuring either the manufacturers I am looking up use the same kit for all applications or the difference is in the .012 of the step in the flywheel. I read in other posts some where that the clamping force is...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94121&highlight=xt6+flywheel+specs

 

ea82-350kg

ea82t-400kg

xt6-500kg

 

Can that be because of flywheel step difference? I am doing my best to come up with some proof that the xt6 actually uses a different pressure plate. So far all I'm finding is that the only difference is in the flywheel step. Anyone have any solid info on this?

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nope, from the factory it's a different plate.

 

some aftermarket suppliers use the same part (Beck/Arnley being one of them) though.

 

 

 

there's very little gain to be had by using an EJ disc. the different materials are used so they can handle heat better. But if you're still using a relatively weak pressure plate, you won't have any more holding power.

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So I just went ahead and ordered an xt6 clutch kit from rock auto, $193 for a rhinopac kit. Should be here in a few days. I also took my flywheel into a buddy who works at a tranny shop to have it surfaced and machined to xt6 specs, he may take another couple thousanths off it also we'll see when I go to pick it up. I'll post measurements when I get everything home, and results after I get it all together again. Also going to pick up a vlsd tomorrow woohoo! And another rear disc brake setup.

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So, the "extra couple thousanths" he was gonna take off ended up being more like 30..... Now my step measures 0.785, I do not recommend doing this!! Everything works but my clutch cable is adjusted almost as tight as it will go and i can only push the pedal down halfway before resistance. I will cut some .030" shimstock into washer shapes and shim the pressure plate out to correct this problem. Car drives fine like this, but it bothers me the small amout of pedal I actually have and the amount of temsion that the pressure plate springs are under.

 

I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to.

 

On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer

Edited by obk25xt
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No it won't, no I don't. He took too much material from the surface the pressure plate mounts to. In essence all I'm doing is putting it back (the material).

 

I'm going to try an install the shims one at a time thru the starter hole, that will lead to some swear words Im sure and possibly removal of the engine, we'll see. Thanks, Spencer

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The reason I had him take material off was to make the flywheel step the same as the xt6. I was very clear when I explained to him what I wanted, was telling him all the numbers and such and he nodded and smiled like he understood. The price was right! Ten bucks! Just goes to show, you get what you pay for! Other than the measurement being off he did a wonderful job, everything is surfaced and even. Just not EXACTLY what I ordered. Oh well, live and learn, on the plus side now I have the ability to adjust pressure plate to flywheel distance based on the amount of shim I install. If there are any millwrights on the board they can appreciate this line of thinking.

Edited by obk25xt
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I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to.

 

JUst make sure you don't space them up "off" of the locating dowels. .030 should be fine.

 

On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer

 

OEM Subaru 2wd rear struts sould be physically longer by about 2 inches.

 

But alot of aftermarket Strut makers seem to be splitting the difference, and making one replacement for all.

 

What I did was this. Purchase a new set of rear struts (or scavenge an extra set of old ones) The new struts come with the spring perch not installed on the body yet. It is a collar that slides down and seats on ridges on the strut body.

 

So first thing, use the perch from your old struts, and slide it UPSIDEDOWN. Then, install the new perch ontop of that "rightside" up.

 

This yields a good bit of lift, and preloads the springs. Does reduce total uptravel a hair......but not anything to notice......and having something limiting uptravel is good on these rearends after a lift....since the bumpstops are rendered useless with the lift.

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