Just wondering if anyone had any guide to splitting an EJ block. I've tried doing it a few years ago with a junk block, but ended up rounding the heads on two of those stupid 12-point bolts. So I couldn't get it open.

 

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this?

What I followed when I split my EJ25.

 

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t74366-tearing-down-ejxx-block-pictures-head-removal-splitting-block.html

That's a pretty good guide.

 

I actually just split my ej22t motor this weekend. Getting the piston wrist pins out can take some patience and fabrication of the tool shown in the picture. Also, when splitting the block, don't use a metal hammer, use a dead blow plastic hammer and or a normal hammer with a block of wood. You may have issues finding the hex socket for the plugs where you access the piston wrist pins. I think you can get them at harbor freight. Think that's where I got mine....and they look identical to what was in the pictures in the guide.

Is the torquing specs on those 12mm 12-point bolts a well kept secret? Even the guide doesn't mention it. Disassembly guide without an assembly guide leaves you in a sticky situation

Another RS25 engine rebuild thread that resides in my bookmarks with the other one posted in here... http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t71639-engine-building-ej251-sti-rods-pistons-head-work.html

Ah, and they still don't mention torquing specs! Weird!

Ah, and they still don't mention torquing specs! Weird!

 

The FSM does...

I noticed I made a mistake by opening the same link twice. I noticed the torque specs are as I thought (34.7 ft lbs), which is surprising because they were soo much more difficult to break free than the head bolts. Sorry about the mistake, back to cleaning this engine...

A hammer and flat head screw drivers.

I have a question.. maybe I need to look at a video again but if you don't care about saving much from the block can't you just pull the block apart with the pistons still in?

I have a question.. maybe I need to look at a video again but if you don't care about saving much from the block can't you just pull the block apart with the pistons still in?

 

You are going to have to disconnect the rods+piston assemblies from the crankshaft at some point.

I have a question.. maybe I need to look at a video again but if you don't care about saving much from the block can't you just pull the block apart with the pistons still in?

 

You are going to have to disconnect the rods+piston assemblies from the crankshaft at some point.

 

Right. I've done it before, but it doesnt save much time unless the wrist pins are super seized in the rod/piston and you dont plan on reusing the block.

 

I did do it that way on an EA82 one time AND reused the engine. It ran. lol

What gets hurt splitting the block with the pistons still in?

What gets hurt splitting the block with the pistons still in?

 

You'll really twist the crankshaft in the process and mess with the bearings. Its really not a good idea. Also you'll need about nine hands when it all separates and falls down. I already made a big gouge on the cylinder block mating surface am going to have to fix that with a stone. I am thinking of lapping the heads and blocks instead of using 600 and 1200grit. What does everyone think about that?

^pretty much.