Ok here is maybe a dumb question.... can I use a set of the 4x140mm 15 inch stock spare rims and have other tires monted to them? Once again sorry am new to the world of swamp rats. Thanks for your help in advance.

It's been done in the past, but, be advised; the 15" spare rims are incredibly thin, and not made to be beating around with larger tires on them. They were designed to be light, and only used as a short distance spare.

 

So, yes it CAN be done.

 

However, nobody around here really does it anymore. The more popular thing to do is get a set of 15" 6 lug Chevy/Toyota half ton wheels and redrill them. The info on that can be found by searching 6 lug wheels. Or find a set of 15" Puegot wheels. However, the 6 lug wheels are often FAR cheaper due to more supply than demand.

I think that the 6 lug conversion will be the way I go just trying to do it cheap and quick.

One of the guys in our group years ago did this. Constantly bending rims and blowing out tires. Not recommended!

You don't need a 6 lug conversion.

 

It is a definite option, however, there are ALOT of people that just redrill the 6 lug rim. That requires NO modification to the car itself, and you can switch straight back to 4x140 rims with no lug stud removal.

 

Just find a spare Subaru hub and knock two opposing studs out. Use the remaining two to bolt the hub to a six lug wheel. This acts as a guide for drilling two new holes in the wheel, making it a 4x140. There are a bunch of posts around here explaining it more in depth.

 

The only problem you may encounter is that tire shops won't want to mount/dismount the wheels on your car. So you may have to remove the wheels and take them into a tire shop. It's a liability issue for them.

 

However, Drilled wheels have been used on some of the hardest wheeled Subarus around, and I haven't seen many problems. Really any now that I think of it. Sure the 6 lugs would be stronger. But, it's been proven that it isn't at all necessary.

 

Good luck to you on whatever you decide.

Drilling the chev rims to 4 lug is the quickest and cheapest method. I did it years ago on my lifted wagon and strength has never been an issue running 28" tires. I've come down so hard on the front the struts bent at the knuckle - lugs have never been a problem. Converting the hubs to 6 lug is nice, but it takes longer and is more expensive so if that is a concern to you I would just drill the rims.

 

There's a couple members here that will setup your hubs for 6 lug pretty reasonable if you just want to send them out and have it done.

 

GD

More info for if you decide to drill rims. The drill bit size is 1/2" and use a 1/4" bit as a pilot hole. I have 3 sets of drilled rims and i have never had problems

More info for if you decide to drill rims. The drill bit size is 1/2" and use a 1/4" bit as a pilot hole. I have 3 sets of drilled rims and i have never had problems

 

What about the countersink?

I see you are in Yakima, if you want to come down to Toppenish some time I can set you up with a 6-lug swap, or almost anything else you might need for your rig

 

-Bill

What about the countersink?

 

 

A 1 1/8" Drill bit works pretty good for a countersink of that size. Can't give specifics on angles, as I don't know what the stock Subaru lugnuts are.

 

However, for the most part; I've seen VERY FEW wheels that people have bothered to countersink. I don't know of any countersunk wheels on the wheelers around here. They are all staying on the cars pretty well though.

Edited April 7, 201015 yr by 3eyedwagon

Many years ago - before I even had a garage to work out of - I drilled my rims with a 1/2" electric hand drill, and chamfered the holes with a dremel tool and a carbide burr. I was careful about it and have never had an issue. They are still on the car and I haven't had any good reason to redo the job or change anything.

 

That said, now that I have a garage and more capability I would do it with a drill press and a chamfer tool if I were going to drill rims - though I would probably just do the 6 lug conversion instead because it looks cleaner.

 

Stricktly speaking, from a machinist's point of view - "counter-sink" is what you do for a socket-head cap screw, or in wood-working to hide your screw heads. "Chamfering" is what is being done to properly seat a lug nut on a wheel.

 

GD

Edited April 7, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

Strictly speaking; we all got each others point and nobody really gives a *&@#$%@(. :grin::grin::grin::grin:

Edited April 8, 201015 yr by 3eyedwagon

and, being one of the people who didn't countersink the holes, you can flip the lug nut over for that extra surface tension.