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Turn key: click. Turn key: click. New starter, battery, cables. Still no start ???


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quick answer: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SR176N-New-Starter/dp/B000BZN69Q/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Model=GL|59&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Subaru|13&Year=1984|1984&carId=002

 

bosch rocks my world, those reman starters from advance/auto zone/o'reilly are a joke. i blew through four starters thinking it was everything from the ignition switch, to the switch harness, to the relay, to the battery, to the cables, and so on.

 

long answer: i bought a multimeter, printed the wiring diagram out for my car and started troubleshooting. the mature, realistic approach to old subarus far trumps quick fixes and stupid money wasting crap. after everything checked out (relays, fuses, etc - continuity across circuits, voltage where it should be and so on) I bought the NEW bosch starter above and it's never started better. the old one was returned to advance where it blew the breaker on the bench testing machine twice (something was obviously grounded internally) and the guys were thoroughly amazed the starter was "that bad".

 

note to self - use multimeter first rather than just throwing money at it, take your time to really think about what's happening and why, then move on and make repairs.

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Glad you got it working. The bad short inside the starter was most likely due to the head of the stud bolt for the main cable connection. The bolt can be over tightened which causes the square head inside the starter to move and then contact chassis ground. When power is applied to it....Blam.

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Glad you got it working. The bad short inside the starter was most likely due to the head of the stud bolt for the main cable connection. The bolt can be over tightened which causes the square head inside the starter to move and then contact chassis ground. When power is applied to it....Blam.

 

i see. i'm always worried about breaking or mucking up stuff on the car, looks like the incredible hulk approach isn't always good. :-p

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Yep, you got it. All you need is reasonably tight. If the stud does turn and cause the problem it is pretty easy to turn it back slightly and clear the short. Over tightening the battery post clamps is a real common problem. It stretches the clamp out and damages it. Tightening the clamp just enough so it dosen't turn on the post is good enough and making sure the connections are clean are a good thing. It is amazing how many folks have electrical trouble just due to dirty battery connections that get over looked.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well, battery (brand new Optima RedTop) was showing 10.8v at rest, hooked it up to my trusty Shumucher charger and got it back to full charge in no time. Also threw in new 2 gauge battery cables and cleaned the connections super well. Battery goes back in, starts right up no problems.

 

Never underestimate low battery charge levels. :o

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Hm maybe they hadn't charged the battery in a long time. I have a yellow top that is 10.8v at rest too. Unfortunately yes it will still start the car but it has shorted cell in it so its not ideal. Optima suffered some quality issues a few years back, seen many postings of shorted cells. I switched to Odyssey after that.

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  • 6 years later...

Im having similar issues with my 1998 Subaru Impreza L wagon 2.2

New Starter,

New Neg cable,

New Ignition Switch

Cleaned all Ground contacts

Battery Holds a Charge

 

When It just Clicks when I turn the key, The clock on the dash shuts off, and the Radio loses power as well, but the first click Power is fine 

 

"Turn Click, Turn Click, Turn Click,"

Somedays It just clicks, some days it fires right up, Its a hit a miss, Trying to PinPoint the issue

 

Any feedback will Help, Thanks in advance!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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