Caboobaroo Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 So I have a few questions of my own. I haven't searched yet because I have had limited internet access the last couple weeks and I'm being lazy... (That and my pool table has become a harness table for a short time) So, I have the EJ22T harness mostly spliced into the EA82 SPFI harness and a few wires left on the EJ harness that I cannot figure out. My PDF file isn't loading onto my laptop so I'm hoping to get them answered here. First I have the EJ Alt-1 connection and can't think of where it would go. Its a BW wire coming from the plug on the alternator and then goes into the car. Second, for the check engine light wire (RY) do I make that the new power for the light or how do I go about wiring that into the old harness. Third, the VSS. The EJ harness has a Green/black wire in the harness but I can't figure out where in the EA82 harness I need to connect it to. I'm gonna have more harness questions here soon. Just a few misc. wires left to go and it should run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) First I have the EJ Alt-1 connection and can't think of where it would go. Its a BW wire coming from the plug on the alternator and then goes into the car. That would be the wire to the Charge light. Needs to be mated to one of the wires in the EA Alt connector. you can test by seeing which wire lights the Charge lamp when connected to ground. Second, for the check engine light wire (RY) do I make that the new power for the light or how do I go about wiring that into the old harness. The light already has power. That wire will be the ground side. Hooks up to the original SPFI wire to the light. Gonna have to pull that lower trim piece in the dash that houses the light and trace the path on the board to figure out which wire. Or find it near the ECU by looking it up in the SPFI FSM. Third, the VSS. The EJ harness has a Green/black wire in the harness but I can't figure out where in the EA82 harness I need to connect it to. Again, you can get the signal from near the dash by tracing the path of the circuit back to the round connector......Or I.D. it near the ECU. I'm gonna have more harness questions here soon. Just a few misc. wires left to go and it should run! Hopefully the rest will be just as easy to answer Edited April 28, 2010 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 ^what he said. the VSS is marked as the reed switch in the EA82 speedo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 Ok thanks for the replies guys. Now just a little bit of info on the wiring. I basically pulled the full frontal clip harness, dash and whatnot. I then cut everything engine related from it so it was down to the headlights and accessory stuff. Then started to splice in the stripped EJ22T harness. And thats where I'm at. I knew I should have paid more attention to the factory harness before I stripped it apart:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 Ok so next question. I also have 4 relays that were mounted under the dash (not including the ignition relay) and cannot figure out which ones are for what. So this car was originally a FWD 3AT SPFI. I have one with a blue connector and the color wires Blue/Red, Blue/White, Red/Yellow and White/Green. Next is a white connector and Green/White, Blue/Red, Red/Yellow, Red/White. And finally 2 black connectors; one is Black, Black/White, Black/Yellow and then a smaller gauge Black. Then the final black connector is Black, Black/White, Black/Red and a smaller gauge of Black. In all reality, if I don't "need" to remove it if its gonna get bypassed, I can do that later. I'm trying to figure out my main power that goes back to the fuel pump so I can get it hooked into the EJ harness:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 I might be able to come up Thurs and I have some diagrams etc. Do you even have a FSM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Ok so next question. I also have 4 relays that were mounted under the dash (not including the ignition relay) and cannot figure out which ones are for what. So this car was originally a FWD 3AT SPFI. I have one with a blue connector and the color wires Blue/Red, Blue/White, Red/Yellow and White/Green. Next is a white connector and Green/White, Blue/Red, Red/Yellow, Red/White. And finally 2 black connectors; one is Black, Black/White, Black/Yellow and then a smaller gauge Black. Then the final black connector is Black, Black/White, Black/Red and a smaller gauge of Black. In all reality, if I don't "need" to remove it if its gonna get bypassed, I can do that later. I'm trying to figure out my main power that goes back to the fuel pump so I can get it hooked into the EJ harness:rolleyes: The four relays are Headlights, Blower fan, and Rear Defrost. You are gonna still need those. There should have been also the ignition relay (6 pole, tan) and the fuel pump relay(roundy, should have a green connector). You'll want to locate the Fuel pump relay wire so you can tap in your EJ pump wire. I would say leave the EA harness. That way you don't risk cutting power to things like cruise and what not. You can just run power to your EJ harness and have it be "stand alone" basically from all other circuits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 The four relays are Headlights, Blower fan, and Rear Defrost. You are gonna still need those. There should have been also the ignition relay (6 pole, tan) and the fuel pump relay(roundy, should have a green connector). You'll want to locate the Fuel pump relay wire so you can tap in your EJ pump wire. I would say leave the EA harness. That way you don't risk cutting power to things like cruise and what not. You can just run power to your EJ harness and have it be "stand alone" basically from all other circuits. This is basically what I did, but I cutout the EA FP relay and ign stuff so it (me) didnt get confused with the EJ wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Well I basically have the EJ harness seperate from the EA harness on mine, minus the few wires that have to be spliced between the two. I did cut out all of the EA engine part and left myself with the accessory stuff like headlights, and all the dash stuff. Really it seems to be working out ok for me for the most part. As for my FP relay, I think I found it. Its located under the dash almost behind the glovebox. Its a white 4-pole, 5 wire relay from the looks of it. 2 BW wires, each on different poles, 2 Blue wires going into a third pole and a Blue/Green going into the fourth pole. Now if I'm right, one of the BW wires is the power input for the FP, the other one is the power from the relay to the FP, but I'm not sure why I have 2 blue wires coming out of it. It also doesn't seem to match up with the schematics in the FSM I have as far as the color codes on the blue wires. I am using the '87 FSM section 6 if that helps any. Now I have another question. Since this harness came from a donor car that had an auto, what all do I need to keep in order to make it run good? I noticed in Rob's thread that being from an automatic, the ECU has an effect on the idle when it sees that its either in P/N or in gear. Since my RX was an auto at one point in time (since then I cut most of that crap out), I don't have a clutch neutral switch either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tturnpaw Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Blue/green should be your fuel pump Power wire. It's most likely an aqua color. Just did it today. If you can get a volt meter and hook up the power to the batt and test it. It should click when you turn it to the run position. It gets power for a few seconds then shuts off. That's your wire. I rewired my fuel pump ground to the relay so the ecu will control it and power is routed to the run position on the ignition. You could just route this wire to constant power and let the ecu control it but I wanted a fail safe in case something happened with a fuel leak etc. Ground the neutral safety. Put the clutch in yourself before starting. Some say the ej22 will have issues with the thrust bearing over time but either way it saves you the hassle of installing a switch on the pedal and wiring it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 1, 2010 Author Share Posted May 1, 2010 Ok I think I got it! Now all I need to do is to get the harness back together and reinstalled before I do the FP wiring! Sweeeeeeet, I know what I'm doing this weekend:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Sorry I didnt make it down yesteday, I was working on mine...again I had to get my tail lights resealed, they were filling up my back end with water. Then for some reason, my electrical decided to go wonkers. When I first started it that morning, the dash looked like a x-mas tree. I popped the hood, but everything looked ok. I pulled it under my canopy and started looking around, but couldnt see anything wrong. When I went to start it again, it wouldnt start. I checked the ign fuse - blown. I went thru that about 6 more times I started checking out my harness by the battery and noticed my overflow tube for the rad was dripping right on a junction. I moved it and messed with the wiring and it fixed it. Dang, its the little stuff that messes with ya Drove it to a meet tonight with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 2, 2010 Author Share Posted May 2, 2010 Does it still have the nasty knock and the oil spewing everywhere? It make quite a bit of mess under my alignment rack... But it made me want mine to be done. Comparing that to your old EA82T was night and day:slobber: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Ok some progress but now at a spot where its time to do some diagnosing. Got the harness installed into the car today and after a couple hours getting everything plugged in and a few loose ends taken care of, went to start it. It cranks over but no spark and no fuel. I know the harness inside the car is getting power since the accessory relays are clicking on but the one for the fuel pump is not clicking when I crank the engine over. I'm going to be digging into it further this next week when I get time but I'm thinking somewhere I'm not getting power to the ECU or power through the EJ harness. I don't wanna pull it back out again:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Does it still have the nasty knock and the oil spewing everywhere? It make quite a bit of mess under my alignment rack... But it made me want mine to be done. Comparing that to your old EA82T was night and day:slobber: No more knock since I changed the oil (just 300mi). I tried hunting down the leak today but couldnt see anything obvious. I may have a leaky HG :-\ I did replace the IAC and TPS, so hopefully my idle problem is fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) Ok some progress but now at a spot where its time to do some diagnosing. Got the harness installed into the car today and after a couple hours getting everything plugged in and a few loose ends taken care of, went to start it. It cranks over but no spark and no fuel. I know the harness inside the car is getting power since the accessory relays are clicking on but the one for the fuel pump is not clicking when I crank the engine over. I'm going to be digging into it further this next week when I get time but I'm thinking somewhere I'm not getting power to the ECU or power through the EJ harness. I don't wanna pull it back out again:-\ There is a Light green/Black wire that supplies "on" power to the ECU and to the IG. relay trigger. In the factory set up, the wire starts as a yellow wire, and gets switched voltage on the ALT-2 circuit (yellow wire from EJ alt) then it goes into a diode,(becomes the Light green/Black wire) through the SMJ and splits to be the 2 wires that go to the ECU and Ig. Relay. Now if you left the diode, make sure you are powering the yellow wire side of it....that will send power through to the ECU and relay. If you cut it out, make sure BOTH of those LgB wires are getting switched power. And then you will also need to supply switched power to the Yellow wire on the EJ alt. I cut mine and spliced around the SMJ, but otherwise set up as factory. Edited May 3, 2010 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Well here's the deal with the factory ej harness. I got it when it was mostly stripped by another board member for a different board member. It still has the diode in it and I finished cutting out the smj and soldered all of the connections from it, one wire at a time. I need to work more on it tomorrow when I get more time but I know the yellow wire going into the diode js power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Well here's the deal with the factory ej harness. I got it when it was mostly stripped by another board member for a different board member. It still has the diode in it and I finished cutting out the smj and soldered all of the connections from it, one wire at a time. I need to work more on it tomorrow when I get more time but I know the yellow wire going into the diode js power. Funny thing about that wire is that it goes into the SMJ and through, makes a loop, and then goes back out the SMJ to the ECU and relay. I am sure you have got a good handle on it, but just worth double checking that all came out right. Props on eliminating the SMJ......I hate that thing. The lack of the SMJ on the 96 OBD II donor I used for my most recent swap made everything WAY easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Its just getting me all frusterated. I think ill pull the harness again and double check everything I did. Or start with a non cut ej harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I'm going to send you a scan of the EJ ECU pin outs, it might help a little. Oops, send me your email addy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I'm going to send you a scan of the EJ ECU pin outs, it might help a little.Oops, send me your email addy. or, get it here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 I got the ECU pinout paper when I inherited the harness that was butchered. I also have many pages printed out from the Legacy FSM pdf file. Just need to go through and double check everything:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.