Chessie92 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 (edited) I have a 1999 Outback, and I am the original owner. I recently noticed a strong antifreeze smell, and I really only noticed it after a long (an hour or so) drive. I took the car to the dealer, who diagnosed the problem as leaking core/freeze plugs. Since the engine is still under warranty ( a Jasper rebuilt was installed in 7/08), the plugs were replaced at no cost to me. The very next weekend (this past weekend) I noticed the smell again, although fainter. The next morning, we looked under the car and noticed a radiator hose that was pretty much flattened. We looked online, and found that this seems to be indicative of a faulty radiator cap. We removed the cap, and found there was a ton of nasty-looking greenish slimy crud all over it. Also seemed to be a tiny amount at the top of the radiator, around the inside - and we also noticed that the fluid level, inside the radiator itself, seemed to be low. So we went down to NAPA and bought a new cap, and replaced the old one, and wiped out the inside top of the radiator as well. When we did, we also added water to the radiator until it was full. The little plastic overflow container already appeared to be at the "full" level. After we drove the car, the hose was fully round again, as I would have expected it to normally appear. When I drove back home last night, I didn't notice any smell, but it was at night, and much cooler of course, so that may have been a factor. However, this morning, I looked under the car before starting it, and the hose was collapsed…though not completely flat as it appeared when we first noticed it. So…is the collapsed hose normal? If not, since I already replaced the cap, what else could cause this? Is it a problem if the car is not overheating? Also, wouldn't the dealer mechanic have needed to drain (and completely refill) the cooling system to replace those plugs? And doing so, would it not be a reasonable expectation that he would have noticed both the collapsed hose, and the cruddy cap? :-\ I'm starting to think I am taking my car to the wrong place for service. Edited May 17, 2010 by Chessie92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 The green stuff could be the remnants of the Subaru Coolant Conditioner. Get a rad cap from a Subaru dealer, the aftermarket ones don't fare well on Subaru's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Depending on what type of coolant was used, when the engine was installed or the last time the coolant was flushed. If it was regular green antifreeze the crud could be silicate dropout which is what happens to old school green antifreeze when it gets old. But two years isn't long enough for that to happen. More than likely it's either the Subaru additive or dropout due to mineral contamination. If your area has hard water, the minerals in the water will stick to the insides if your radiator and engine if tap water is used to fill the cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 I concur with fitting a genuine Subaru item I also suggest that when you do, you remove the old one, then start the engine with the cap OFF. Let it idle, with the heater on full, the fan on 1. The fluid will expand, and some will spill out, so put a tray under the car, and have a cloth handy. Don't let the coolant run into a drain. Anyway, as the engine heats, the thermostat will open up, and air bubbles will be pumped out. The fluid in the radiator filling-neck will rise...burp a bubble..sink...rise..burp..... If you are patient, and the ambient temperature isn't freezing, the engine will eventually warm so much that the ECU switches ON the radiator fan. This is your cue to top up and install the new rad cap. This is my tried and tested (and tested again) surefire way to purge all the air out. I think your hose is collapsing because there is a big air pocket inside your engine, and it contracts a lot as it cools. Please take note that a weak coolant solution will produce boil-bubbles forever. Make sure the coolant has a boling point over 100 degrees C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Every time I have experienced a collapse radiator hose it was caused by a clogged radiator. New radiator and problem solved. All that green stuff you discovered could suggest the tubes in the radiator are also now full of the same stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 an FYI, never use tap water in an aluminum engine. Use 50/50 pre,ix or demineralized water. I go for the sooby cap first, then a clogged radiator second. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chessie92 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm not sure how a new Subaru cap would make a difference in the hose since the cap on it now is brand new, but if it doesn't cost much, I might try it. Still...if the car is not overheating, do I need to be concerned about the hose? Or is this a problem waiting to happen? Also, no one addressed my question on the dealer repair. Any thoughts on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Also, no one addressed my question on the dealer repair. Any thoughts on that? They are full of crap. There aren't any "freeze plugs" on the outside of an EJ engine. The only ones are on the heads, and if you lost one of those you'd have motor milkshake in the oil-pan. Hmmm.....let's think about this guys......... DOHC 2.5, coolant smell, Air pockets, sludgy coolant........ I hate to say headgaskets.......but........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Hmmm.....let's think about this guys......... DOHC 2.5, coolant smell, Air pockets, sludgy coolant........ I hate to say headgaskets.......but........ Best way to confirm HGs is to do the Combustion Gases in Coolant Test http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm yellow=HGs (or less likely cracked block/head) Spend the $50 and do the test yourself and if it fails, take it back to shop that put the Jasper engine in it and get it fixed. You could also remove the rad, flush it out or have it tested for blockage and refill (using method above) to eliminate radiator issues before you take it back. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chessie92 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 (edited) They are full of crap. There aren't any "freeze plugs" on the outside of an EJ engine. The only ones are on the heads, and if you lost one of those you'd have motor milkshake in the oil-pan. Hmmm.....let's think about this guys......... DOHC 2.5, coolant smell, Air pockets, sludgy coolant........ I hate to say headgaskets.......but........ They didn't say I lost them....but that they were leaking. And he said they were also called "core" plugs...so I guess different people call them different things. They ordered 2 new ones...and replaced them. And they are on there...I saw them myself. This is frustrating. How do I get a dealer to test this stuff? I have to rely on them to do what is needed. :-( Edited May 18, 2010 by Chessie92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chessie92 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 Best way to confirm HGs is to do the Combustion Gases in Coolant Test http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm yellow=HGs (or less likely cracked block/head) Spend the $50 and do the test yourself and if it fails, take it back to shop that put the Jasper engine in it and get it fixed. You could also remove the rad, flush it out or have it tested for blockage and refill (using method above) to eliminate radiator issues before you take it back. Good Luck! I read about this test, but the site states "Perform this test, at your own risk, and do not do the test, unless you are experienced and are wearing clothing and equipment to protect you from burns, or injury." I am far from experienced, and I think I'd be inviting disaster to do this test. Couldn't the dealer do this? Wouldn't they have checked that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 I read about this test, but the site states "Perform this test, at your own risk, and do not do the test, unless you are experienced and are wearing clothing and equipment to protect you from burns, or injury." I am far from experienced, and I think I'd be inviting disaster to do this test. Couldn't the dealer do this? Wouldn't they have checked that? I prefer the tried and true, and safer method. Let the shop use an emissions sniffer to look for products of combustion in the radiator. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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