99 Legacy GT. It's one dipstick verses another. Automatic transmission dipstick won't budge or turn.

 

Casualties: piece of meat hanging from my hand and a bleeding gash in my elbow from the conflict so far.

 

Current situation: The ring/handle is destroyed, it cracked in half and broke off. Then I tried the base and it's starting to crack and a huge chunk broke off.

 

I need reinforcements and medical attention!

 

Debrief: Do not drain fluids before making sure the dipstick comes out and wear protective gear at all times.

Gary,

 

I probably have a couple of tubes here.

 

Sort of a common problem.

 

IIR the dealer had the tubes for like 40-50 bucks.

 

I try and keep 2 ahead but I'd have to look. Haven't been spending time in the garage lately.

 

Not bad to replace. Hardest one is the top support bolt. I get it from the bottom IIR but you may be able to get it from the top.

 

I believe a 10mm down at the pan (from memory so I could be wrong).

 

I'd purchase a new Oring for where the tube hits the pan.

 

But yea - those aren't fun.

 

Often they get broken no matter what you do. For science sake I've taken some, put them upside down in a pan, sprayed PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, ATF, etc and tried "working them". It's never ended well so I no longer experiment.

Woah - so you're saying you've pretty much seen them permanently "welded in place"? That sucks.

Yea Gary - you're screwed with that dipstick/tube.

 

Makes you wonder how often it was removed - doesn't it?

Yea Gary - you're screwed with that dipstick/tube.

 

Makes you wonder how often it was removed - doesn't it?

 

No. If it's stuck that bad you know the answer. It's almost scary to think about it.

Got it, I 'win'. LOL. I pulled the entire tube off, thanks Dave that was easy, just one 14mm bolt.

 

With it off the car I pounded the lip from underneath with a hammer and screwdriver and it eventually worked it's way out. It was like pounding a bearing out - press fit. Oddly enough there was hardly any rust or anything? I mean a very light bit of surface rust inside the tube at the top where it seats but not much to speak of.

 

Here's the odd thing - I reinstalled the same tube and used the dipstick out of my daily driver Lsi - went in perfectly smooth just like it should. But the original dipstick wouldn't even reinstall after I had removed it, it was like it was "too big" or something, would have had to be pounded in....can the dipsticks "swell" or something?

No. If it's stuck that bad you know the answer. It's almost scary to think about it.

you're right it's the original fluid. only has 58,000 miles so the fluid wasn't terrible but definitely a more dirty orange than pink color - it's over a decade old, change the fluid people!

You lucked out.

 

I belive a new dipstick is cheap. I have some of those around here somewhere but a JY one or the dealer isn't so bad.

 

Mine that were stuck seemed to have the Oring at the top (I suggest a new Oring for the bottom of the tube).

 

I guess it's just condensation? ANd of course never being checked. I put a little ATF or Petroleum jelly on the tight ones at the top where they seat.

thanks for the tips dave, i would have waited longer to try and remove the tube, glad i did that and got it over with.

 

You lucked out.

i was planning on installing the entire tube from my daily driver into it, but thought i'd try pounding it first. put the old cracked up dipstick into the DD and can replace it when i get home, i should have a couple lying around too, though i never knew to save the tubes.

No. If it's stuck that bad you know the answer. It's almost scary to think about it.

 

Come on now...the car only had 50k some odd miles on it. Also, I know for a FACT it used to come out. I checked the transmission fluid at the dealtership when i bought it 20k miles before it blew up.

you're right it's the original fluid. only has 58,000 miles so the fluid wasn't terrible but definitely a more dirty orange than pink color - it's over a decade old, change the fluid people!

 

I suppose I was thinking more in terms of miles...not years...great point - my bad.

I have been there. It is not the O ring but the stich hnadle itself. It took me a week to get it out. I used channel locks, working it a little bit at a time. It is a real fitch to do. Once you get it out take fine sandpaper to the plastic and see if you get it any better.

 

nipper