DBOZ Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Long story short got the demon roll pin out after 3 days(right tool makes it easier) Now I got the nut off with the cottor pin. I cant get the darn thing to separate, ball joint is bad(its almost separated in the boot) but I just want my new axle in. Anyone have some nice tid bits of advice? Thanks in advance and remember if you see a pearly SVX bajaing in E.WI thats me =) Darrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 This is the front axle? You're disconnecting the wrong end. You should take off the arm from the inside where it connects up to the car. It's a 14mm bolt IIRC and comes out nice and easy with a good dousing of PB blaster. If that ball joint is bad you really should replace it if you don't want your wheel flopping off while you're driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 This is the front axle?You're disconnecting the wrong end. You should take off the arm from the inside where it connects up to the car. It's a 14mm bolt IIRC and comes out nice and easy with a good dousing of PB blaster. If that ball joint is bad you really should replace it if you don't want your wheel flopping off while you're driving. This^^^ Or take a chizle and hammer it into the small gap in the back of the wheel bearing housing. Where the small gap is then use a pry bar and put it between the A-arm and the bearing housing. Or maybe a small amount of hammer. Works for me everytime. GL -cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBOZ Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Yes it is the front right axle part. Gotcha, I still cant get the other bolt to even budge yet(yes PBing the hell out of it). Maybe in a few days I can get it to break. And I ordered the darn ball joints just a pain to install and remove the old ones. Thanks for letting me know of my own stupidy somedays. If you only knew the story of this brat and what i've had to replace just to have fun with my buds with there BIG mud trucks. Darrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Now that I think of it, I may have taken a breaker bar to that bolt, in any case, it did come loose without any extreme measures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Yes it is the front right axle part.Gotcha, I still cant get the other bolt to even budge yet(yes PBing the hell out of it). Maybe in a few days I can get it to break. And I ordered the darn ball joints just a pain to install and remove the old ones. Thanks for letting me know of my own stupidy somedays. If you only knew the story of this brat and what i've had to replace just to have fun with my buds with there BIG mud trucks. Darrell Ok, I misunderstood you. I thought the bolt holding the ball joint was already out? -cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Is it the ball joint on the end of your tie rod? Or the one attached to the A-arm? -cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBOZ Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Its the ball joint really, I have the nut off, and cant get the two to move off, so I can swing the assembly so I can remove the axle. But like stated above, I was just trying to get the wrong one out(well i need to replace the ball joint anyways) Once I get the Long bolt from the lower A arm(I think its called) it should drop and I can swing it(Sorta the same thing i had to do with my 97 sebring, but much much easier with the bolts not rusted tight. Darrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Ok, gotcha. Butya like I said about using the chizle on the back of the hub. Sometimes they are a PITA to get to pop apart. GL -cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 ball joints are easy, just get a pickle fork, they come out every time in less than a minute. can't believe how much time i wasted before finally getting one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBOZ Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Thanks so much from everyone! I will get a pickle fork tommorow. I found Nug's nice picture guide(YAY!) so hopefully ill get it out. One question, theres a bolt that is right above that ball joint. Seems like 14mm but even after 3 days of PBing the crap out of it, nothing, i think it semi-holds the ball joint in there so i cant really separate it(I could be wrong) but his pictures show the nut out of it. Well anyhow ill get the new axle in tommorrow at least. Darrell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 From my experience, pickle forks work great if your not worried about ripping the boot. And yes that is a 14mm bolt that does need To come out. Try hitting your ratchet with a hammer it may jar it loose. When you put everything back together put some antisieze on everything. Or just some grease, that'd what I do anyways. That way next time it will all come apart easily. -cg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I believe the 14mm bolt he is referring to is the knuckle to strut clamping bolt, and it does not have to be removed to do what he wants. As far as the ball joint.... Make sure your tie rod is off. Remove the nut (leave it on just a few turns), turn the steering so the tie rod is all the way out. Hit the knuckle portion of the mount with a large hammer, and but some muscle behind it. This will pop the tie rod out. Remove it the tie rod from the knuckle. Now you can take the same hammer and hit the lower control arm where the ball joint goes through. Doesn't damage the ball joint or cause any structural damage to the control arm. It will most likely take several good blows to free it. No pickle fork required (save it for the serving line ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBOZ Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 Well Long story short, that pinch bolt snapped, finnally got the unit out, got other side out with NO problems. Now just waiting for my ball joints,struts, and roll pin to come. UGH, my Brat just to have "FUN" Darrell P.S. This must have been 26yrs of rust OEM stuff that has NEVER moved on this truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 When you go through hell to get your car fixed it's just that much more fun to drive it afterwards. I had a hard time doing my rear bearings, but after 3 days when I finally had it done that first quite test drive made the whole thing worth it. Hang in there, you're doing it right the first time, getting it done, and when it's all finished it will be more fun to drive than if you got it that way. It's a wonderful feeling of accomplishment on that first test ride after hours of painful work. Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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