I just came back from a quick bite to eat and I go and start the car and I'd say it took about 3 seconds of cranking before the car started.. a quick search here says the coolant temp sensor?

 

I think the sensor is located right under the throttle body right? One thing I must ask is it really needed to drain the coolant out just to change the sensor?

Has this happened before?

Was it 3 seconds of continous cranking or 3 seconds, stop, then retry and the car fires up.

Has this happened before?

Was it 3 seconds of continous cranking or 3 seconds, stop, then retry and the car fires up.

 

No has not happened before but I've noticed in the last 48 hours it seems to take longer then normal..

 

Also it was 3 seconds continuous cranking

 

It idles fine.. would live data from my scan reader tell me anything? Might not really matter much since I can almost see the outcome of this.

 

One thing I have not really checked for is if it's worst when the car is cold or warm or the same when cold or hot.

The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens.

The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens.

 

 

 

It's under the intake manifold right passenger side? I just know it's in a tight spot but what do I need to remove to get to it?

I honestly do not remeber as I just do it. Someone will chime in. I never found it that hard to replace.

Uhmm the car has two coolant sensors right? One is the sender for the gauge and the other for the ECU?

 

I ask because I'm seeing two parts one that is a blade connector and the other with a 2 pin plug in.

Read this and follow the links:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108631

 

Good luck.

yep I just ran into that thread I just ordered the part also I don't get any idle issues but I do want to see if this will clear up one thing is the erratic start/run/idle on a warm engine but that has been going on for like 9-10 months now.. only happens on a warm engine never cold.

yep I just ran into that thread I just ordered the part also I don't get any idle issues but I do want to see if this will clear up one thing is the erratic start/run/idle on a warm engine but that has been going on for like 9-10 months now.. only happens on a warm engine never cold.

 

 

It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too.

It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too.

Well I will have to see when the part arrives.

I think my sensor should be here tomorrow.. question.. does a sparkplug socket fit the sensor?

 

i don't have a deep 19 mm socket.

fine job from the USPS....

 

http://trkcnfrm1.smi.usps.com/PTSInternetWeb/InterLabelInquiry.do?strOrigTrackNum=91019314%209006%200063%207928%2075

 

mind you I got home at 9:30 AM and I've been home all day long...... No knock, no note, and no door bell ring.

does anyone have the ohm values that the sensor should be at? I know one of the many threads someone posted some numbers but I forgot to copy and paste that and save into word.

 

I just want to compare with the new senor here.

replaced.. painless except the thin rubber line from the passenger side intake header to what looks to be the fuel pressure regulator just snapped.. SO far it's good no erratic idle as soon as it's done starting.. will check out some more for a longer period of waiting with the car off instead of 5 min.

 

replaced the Rad cap as well.

 

Old sensor

 

 

old cap

 

Ok the verdict is....

 

 

No change...

I know I replaced the CTS but I did not want to make another tread.. but as you know I said how the car kinda runs rough for like the first 20-30 seconds after a cold start or sitting for like an hour or so..

 

Well after moving my car out of a friend's driveway and checking out another car I got back into my car and I had to quicky jump in and pull off.

 

I almost never do this by pulling off right away and never when it does that rough running when you give it gas.

 

Anyways I went to pull off and I had such a hard time getting over 2,000 rpms and after it did the car "opened up"

 

I can't think what on earth this is... I'm not sure what temp the oxygen sensor goes back into Open or closed loop but I was thinking of installing a A/F wideband just to see if it's running rich during that time.

 

It seems like the colder it seems to get the rougher it will run if giving it gas after started but it goes always always after a few seconds.

 

today would of been a perfect time to have a damn camera mounted in the car...

hmm one person said could be the idle air control valve but I used seafoam on that before and it really did not help all that much..