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Rust in engine block?

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I am building up a spare engine for my 79 Dodge Colt and I was curious about rust in the water jacket. (cast iron block)

 

I have 2 engines that have been stored for LOTS of years, but both have less than 40K on them. When I was looking into the water jacket on both, there is evidence of rust, (albeit) old rust. Some looks nasty, but scrapes off....no water has been in there for like 10 years or more. Engines were stored in dry storage.

 

I doubt that rust through would have happened with thick cast iron and I don't want to tear down the engines, remove pistons, bearings, etc as the mechanicals are in fantastic condition.

 

Can I just do alot of flushing? How can I clean this before I would start it?

 

What would be considered the death nail in the way of rust?

 

Ideas?

 

Thanks, Todd

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I would just flush it. Probably be fine.

 

You are resealing them right? The head gaskets could have suffered damage from the rust as they are probably the usual graphite with corrugated steel typical of the construction of those days. I would be more worried about the head gaskets than the actual block.

 

After you reseal them - maybe fill the engine up with CLR or some other rust eating, metal-safe chemical and let it sit for a bit.

 

GD

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Oh yes, all new seals, gaskets and a fresh head.

 

Start it and run it with CLR? Someone said to put a stocking in the upper rad hose to filter the crap out. Flush frequently.

 

What head gaskets would you use?

 

Thanks, Todd

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I wouldn't run it with CLR in it - just fill it up while it's still together and let it sit in there a while then drain it out. Then dissasemble and do your reseal. I think that would actually be the better way to go since then you have a chance to flush out the chems and knock loose the bigger peices once it's apart.

 

I agree that some sort of inline filter on the inlet side of the radiator would be a good plan. Clogging up the radiator would be a set back.

 

I would see what Fel-Pro has for head gaskets on that engine. If they have the perma-torque like they do for the EA's then I wouldn't hessitate to go with that. I've had great luck with them. Some of the other gaskets I've received for Subaru's have been just paper though at least the Fel-Pro's are thicker than the other aftermarket suppliers. But I wouldn't hessitate to use their head gaskets - just potentially not some of the other one's in their "kits". If the rest of the gaskets are still availible from dodge or mitsubishi then I would at least try to see what they are made of, etc. And I would also consider doing some "gasket replacement" in some areas - like using an RTV product on the water pump, and coating any cork in RTV to prolong it's life and improve sealing. And converting any flanged fits over to a flange sealant like loctite 515 or 518.

 

GD

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I appreciate all the good information GD. I will tell you that cast iron is ALOT heavier to work with! I much prefer slugging around a Subaru engine! LOL

 

 

Todd

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