jboymechanic Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 This is all part of an on going saga. Last weekend I finally got my recently purchased wagon road ready by replacing front axles, so I drove it to Milwaukee to meet Mile Fox and some of the other local USMB guys. The car drove great and cruised down the road smoothly at 75 mph with good power. But, on the way home on the freeway the car randomly shut off and wouldn't restart. I have since solved that problem and it's running again (iginition issue) but when I went to take it for a test drive through the neighborhood I noticed that it was completely gutless. It also idles a little rough, but it did before. I've already replaced the plugs and wires (NGK), distributor cap, and the entire coil, bracket, and coil wiring harness (which is what the problem was). I haven't touched the timing from before the car died and the only part I haven't replaced is the rotor as it wasn't in stock at my local Napa (it's been ordered). What could be causing my sudden lack of power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Check for simple vacuum leaks, or exhaust leaks before the turbo. But the idleing poorly part leans more to the vacuum leak side. If there big enough you will beable to hear them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 I think I found the issue, I beleive the timing is off. The timing covers are off and the engine happened to stop with the cam for the odd cylinders (left when looking at engine from front of the car) at top dead center and the cam for the even cylinders was at bottom dead center. I then looked at the flywheel and noticed that the timing marks were at least 1 inch passed the arrow marker on the bell housing. I also noticed that the distributor was loose, so the previous owner must have had the cam timing off slightly and made up for it as much as possible by adjusting the ignition timing. I will be retiming both the cams and the ignition during the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Oww. That can do alot too. Heh my guestimate was way off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 That's okay, at least you didn't use the response "your old Subaru lacks power, what's so unusual about that?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 you get those int. parts yet? timing sucks with these things, im still fiddling with mine. one of these days ill learn to do it right RV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 I have to wonder if you are looking at the correct timing marks for the belts and especially the flywheel. If they are off as much as you stated I don't think the engine would run. I think your trouble may just be with the distributor timing. If I understand your original post correctly the car was running ok before you made repairs on it so the belts should be ok I would think. You can't compensate for incorrect valve timing with the ignition timing. Your disty just isn't in the correct position. Make sure you got the plug wires in the proper positions also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted August 25, 2010 Author Share Posted August 25, 2010 The cam timing is definitely off, I'm well aware how to read and set the cam timing in these vehicles. The previous owner may have attempted to compensate the cam timing with ignition timing. It was definitely running better before I had the random engine stalling, the only other possible explanation is that the timing belts jumped when the engine suddenly cut out why at free way speeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Somehow I was thinking from your statements that the engine had trouble after you worked on it. I could understand the belts slipping while the engine was running hard. Perhaps a bearing went bad. Replacing all the cam belt wear related items may be order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 Today Tom and I corrected both the cam timing and the ingintion timing and put in a new water pump in the process. Still runs the same way, I think I might not be firing on all cylinders. Going to check the plugs and wire resistances tomorrow to be certain, perhaps one is bad or maybe I accidentally got some anti seize on the electrode. I can't find any vacuum leaks, so if any one has any ideas, let me know. I'll post what I find tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 When you took the distributor out did you mark which way the rotor was turned? If not and just put it back you, the timing gear on it will be way off. We might have to pull the Dist tomorrow and then turn the engine to 0-TDC then find out where the timing gear needs to be and then put the dist back in. I think this is your problem. Even though we turned the top of the dist and it showed 20 BTDC with a timing light, if the timing gear on the rotor shaft it off I think that will cause a major issue, as timing won't be true. GD, do you have any input? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 ............ to stop with the cam for the odd cylinders (left when looking at engine from front of the car) at top dead center and the cam for the even cylinders was at bottom dead center. I then looked at the flywheel and noticed that the timing marks were at least 1 inch passed the arrow marker on the bell housing.......... . With one cam dot up, and one down, the the timing marks should not be visible at all. What should be visible are the 3 belt alignment marks (3 hashmarks with no #s) When the center mark is lined up with the arrow on the bell, the cams should be one up, one down. Sooooo.....let's try it this way..........rotate the engine until "0" TDC mark lined up with the arrow on the bell, and drivers side "dot" down and out at at 45 degree, and the passenger side up and out at a 45 degree. Once you've got it like that, install the disty with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. that should get you to basic timing. Adjust with a light from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 (edited) Well we figured it out, Turns out one of the plugs for the Fuel injectors (MPFI) was all corroded and wasn't getting good contact (No.1 Cyl) so that is what was causing the miss-fire. As for the timing, yes I set it to the 3 lines (Middle line) I think there was a misunderstanding that post by Jon. Only issue with the car now is it bucks sometimes during take off, which could just be dirty air passages and a Dirty MAF. Jon, post up how it runs now after you've been driving it all day! Edited August 28, 2010 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 It's been running pretty good, but now the rear windows and stuck down. I haven't checked the fuses yet, I hope that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 I tells you its one thing after another with the GL-10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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