snake05 Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 I bought a 98 outback with the ej25 with a blown head gasket. Pulled the motor, bought a gasket set, got the heads resurfaced, valve job, replaced the gaskets, put the engine back in the car. Started it up, fired right up but rough idle with a *ting* during acceleration. Engine had no power and threw a CEL. Computer-ed it and bad fuel injectors on #2 and #4 cylinders. Changed them. No more CEL still rough idle though. Checked the coil pack, timing, spark plugs, spark plug wires, o2 sensor, cam sensor and coolant sensor, all good. I check compression and I have 65psi in #2 and 75psi in #4. Before I go crazy and start pulling heads off and stuff I need some advice. I super frustrated with the whole project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 First thought is the most common problem with these, incorrect cam timing. What was the compression in the other two cylinders? Is this a SOHC or DOHC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Compression is awfully low.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 I agree that his cam timing is off. Not really an unusual problem. Just hope that he didn't damage the valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake05 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 Compression is 165psi in #1 and 175psi in #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 98 is a DOHC unless it's been swapped. hopefully this should be an easy fix - you have the cams mistimed probably. so the valves are opening/closing at the wrong time. if it's too far off then the valves can collide and bend. hopefully they're not that far off. more than likely you're just a tooth off. just pull the side timing cover on that side and check, only takes a minute or two to take that off and have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake05 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 The timing has been checked and checked again. If its off it doesn t show to be off. All the timing marks align and the timing light showed it to be in sync too. Not saying thats not the problem, but is it possible that the timing could be off but yet show to be on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Another thought is that the cams are not in the right position. By that I mean they got swapped when being reinstalled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 (edited) The timing has been checked and checked again. If its off it doesn t show to be off. All the timing marks align and the timing light showed it to be in sync too. Not saying thats not the problem, but is it possible that the timing could be off but yet show to be on? you can't see the crank timing mark with the crank pulley and timing cover on. so if it is off you would not know unless you removed them both. so yes it could be off with out looking like it. the other possible way it could be off is if the crank key way is boogered and the crank sprocket is off. but usually the pulley wobbles as a result and usually not so soon after an install. did the shop check the heads / valves on the driver side, #2 & #4?? probably not the problem, but.... what timing mark did you use for the crank sprocket? Edited September 1, 2010 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 visually checked the alignment of all 4 cam sprockets and the crank, removed all the covers? they have multiple marks on them, which has confused folks before. you've verified you're using the right marks on all 5 of those components? cylinder 2 and 4 are the same side, so it really sounds like that's the issue. did you use a Subaru headgasket or aftermarket? aftermarkets are known to not hold. cam sprockets are labeled exhaust and intake, so you can read those right on the face. intake cams are up top, exhaust are on the bottom. they are aligned when both double notches come together on each cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 All the timing marks align and the timing light showed it to be in sync too. A timing light proves nothing as this has nothing to do with ignition timing. Compression on the other two sounds good, so it's either cam timing is off or the gasket didn't take. Did you follow the torque procedure to a T when tightening the head bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snake05 Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 The timing covers have been removed and all the notches have checked. I was extremely cautious with the sprockets and marks. I had pictures of everything from the tear down and was labeled all parts. And if I had swapped the intake and exhaust sprockets wouldnt compression be off in both sides? I am using subaru gaskets and followed the haynes repair guide instructions so carefully my eyes still hurt. But it is the side the head gasket originally blew. The machine shop pressure tested them, set the valves, and resurfaced the head. Would a bad tensioner cause this? I used the original and am now thinking I probably shouldnt have. Should I pull that head back off and start over, new gasket and all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Not until you confirm the path of compression loss. Time for a leakdown test. Another thought is that the cams are not in the right position. By that I mean they got swapped when being reinstalled. 2 and 4 are the drivers side right? The intake cam sprocket on drivers side has the ring for the cam angle sensor. If the sprocket was the wrong one would the engine run at all? Or would it just give a code for the cam sensor? Or are you thinking the sprockets are correct, but the cams themselves are in the wrong place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm thinking that perhaps the cams are in the incorrect positions, but the sprockets are in the correct position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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