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ea82 torques and cruise control diagrams?


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I need a few numbers.

 

What is the torques rating for these bolts (1987 d/r 5spd)?

CIMG3318.JPG

 

Also, Does anyone have diagrams/fsm's for the electrical portion and mechanical portion of a hitachi carburetted ea82 cruise control system. Not my FSM nor my Haynes manuals refer to this.

 

Thanks,

 

Sesh

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There should be no modifications required to use the cruise control system with a Weber. If you use the stock throttle cable it should just work. Nothing about the carb itself has any bearing on the operation of the CC.

 

Torque values:

 

http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx

 

Those are likely M8x1.25 so I would go with 150 In/lbs and call it a good day.

 

Just for giggles - you should note that no real mechanic ever torques stuff like that. There is no reason to. You use a calibrated arm and the right sized ratchet handle. As my shop foreman used to say (ex-Pontiac dealer tech, master fabricator, and one of the guys *I* go to for help) - "Quarter turn before it breaks!"

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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I totally agree about the torques. I was a bike mechanic for 6 years and worked with a lot of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm bolts. My torque wrench was my arm, and when in practice, was pretty close to acurate. I also noticed that different materials could handle different torques. None the less, I'm not so concerned about these bolts not being torqued to their size and hardness standard, but to their subaru spec, for all the vibration they encounter in their position.

 

There should be no modifications required to use the cruise control system with a Weber. If you use the stock throttle cable it should just work. Nothing about the carb itself has any bearing on the operation of the CC.

 

I was so anxious to rip the malfunctioning hitachi off of the engine and install the weber, that I forgot to map out the cruise parts. Now I want to study the diagrams to actually figure it out. Everything was working before the swap, so I figure I'm just missing something... Any input on how this puppy actuates?

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I totally agree about the torques. I was a bike mechanic for 6 years and worked with a lot of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm bolts. My torque wrench was my arm, and when in practice, was pretty close to acurate. I also noticed that different materials could handle different torques. None the less, I'm not so concerned about these bolts not being torqued to their size and hardness standard, but to their subaru spec, for all the vibration they encounter in their position.

 

*shouldn't* be any real vibration there. That's just the main shaft bearing carrier. Vibration would kill the bearing and quick. What vibration were you thinking would be present? Those bolts have lock washers on them - never seen one come loose so I think you should be ok with just the regular metric torque chart.

 

The chart is not real flexible..... what I'm trying to say is that if a different torque value than that listed for the size/hardness of the fastener were required then Subaru would have used a size/hardness that is inline with the torque value they are looking for. Those charts are used by the engineers when sizing fasteners durring the design and development phase as well so they should be very close to what is actually called out.

 

I was so anxious to rip the malfunctioning hitachi off of the engine and install the weber, that I forgot to map out the cruise parts. Now I want to study the diagrams to actually figure it out. Everything was working before the swap, so I figure I'm just missing something... Any input on how this puppy actuates?

 

Hhhmmm - the EA82 CC system works off a chain on the pedal side IIRC - there is not a seperate throttle cable tie-in like the EA81's and EJ's. So if there's a problem to be found I should think it would be with the vacuum supply to the CC reservior - you may have inadvertantly disconnected or misrouted the supply to the big sphere on the passenger strut tower....

 

GD

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Right on. I bet that is exactly it. I disconnected a ton of stuff, but only hooked up a line that allowed my vents to actuate, but there are a few things dangling that might be related. If the CC runs directly off of engine vacuum, that is most likely the culprit. I'll check my lines when I get the engine back in.

 

My last two vehicles had separate vacuum pumps for the cruise control, just like a turbo or a diesel, so I forgot to even check the source of vac for the 87 GL.

 

I already torqued the bolts to snug+1/4 turn, so I'll sit with that unless someone stops me. The feel seems about right, anyways.

 

Thanks GD,

 

Sesh

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