I have a 1982 GL wagon 4WD D/R 1800 engine,

 

Hi all.

 

Could someone please tell me the correct way to install a new front crankshaft seal.

 

I have searched and found many ideas and methods:

 

1 .Coat seal inner/outer edges with clean engine oil.

 

2. Coat outer edge with silicon spray. http://californiavan.com/subaru/engineseals/

 

3. Pack white lithium or wheel bearing grease between the two lips on the inner edge of the seal where it rides against

the crank. Smear Permatex #2 gasket sealer around the outer edge of the Seal. (From HTKYSA Book)

 

4. Use High tack sealer [almost glue] to hold in the seal. ??? Don't know what this is.

 

5. Blue loc-Tight on outer edge of seal.

 

6. Coat the outer portion of the seal with a thin coating of silicone .

 

 

 

Could someone please tell me what is the best way to install a new seal?

 

Thanks in advance..........RonVee

Edited September 15, 201015 yr by RonVee

I should avoid commenting in threads like this 'cause alot of times I find out what I do isn't "right"...But,I go with the "coat in fresh engine oil" method. For no other reason than it just makes sense.And,I usually have clean motor oil around.

 

I'd definitely would Not use any kinda Hi Tack or any other sealent. I have used multi purpose grease before,too.That seems to work Ok.

It doesn't really matter - it takes all of 15 minutes to change the front crank seal on an EA81. Most of those methods are fine. The unromantic truth is that the outer edge of the seal doesn't really need anything if it fits properly and the inner edge only needs a little lubrication of some form to prevent it from running dry on the first start-up.

 

Personally I use Loctite 248 (blue in glue-stick form) on the outer edge and I use Dow Corning 111 valve lubricant on the ID when I'm being really anal. On a Subaru engine seal I just coat the ID in oil with my finger and knock the seal in. Not a big deal.

 

GD

I never coated the outer edge with anything either and never had a problem (watch, now that I've said that this latest one I just put in will leak!). Clean the block seal seat to remove any old material. Get it started as straight as you can and use a wood block and hammer to tap it in.

Thanks to all that posted up with help!

 

Good news:

 

Seal is in! Had to take radiator out to get new one in.

 

Not so good news:

 

Still have a small oil leak. I gunked engine good and the oil seams to be coming from above the lower part of the oil filter mount then running the length of the bottom of the oil filter.

 

Guess I should have replaced the oil pump gasket. (it only comes with the whole kit with the O rings)

 

I also was gunshy as I never have messed with a Soob oil pump in 25 years of driving the 3 that I have. I was just trying to stop the oil leak that I put up with the last 3 winters. I'll have to drive her to see exactly how much leak I have compared to before the new seal. It was really slinging it up to the hood and belts.

 

Maybe it slowed it down enough to wait till next year to fix the pump leak!!!

 

Anywho.....thanks for the help and good to see GD and the rest all still here and helping ********************* me out ! LOL

 

Peace.......Ron

 

PS: I don't know where everyone gets the philip screwdrives to fit the hole to lock the flywheel down. I tried 20 or so and could not find one that could clear all the obsticles around the timing hole. Even my punches were all too long. I had to resort to an allen key to unlock and it broke upon locking the nut back down. Lucky me ....I did manage to remove it all without dropping it down the hole.......Gettin old does suck and don't let anyone else tell ya different.