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Belt cover replacement/ oil pump gaskets


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I was going to replace the gaskets on my oil pump ('87 GL) and one bolts on both the left and right belt cover on the bottom are stripped or something. At first I thought the hex was stripped but when I tried from underneath the engine I could see that the bolt was turning. I haven't tried pulling it out with pliers yet, is that a good idea? Also, one of the other bolts on the bottom is just holding a broken piece of the inner belt cover.

 

A year or so ago I pulled everything off (of an '85 GL) that was required to change the head gaskets but I forget exactly how that went, though it seems like I'd have to pull the inner belt cover on both sides to get the cams off, is that right? If that's the case they should be easy to replace.

 

So, the oil pump gaskets: where are the 5 bolts I'm supposed to remove to get the oil pump off? Can I get to them if I pull off the middle belt cover?

 

Is there a gasket or sealant in between the oil pan and the crank case? I tried tightening its bolts but I felt like I was going to pop the bolt heads off if I tightened them any further so I stopped. I was wondering if they should be pretty snug or if there was a gasket that was that gave them a little 'squish'.

 

-Thanks.

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I skimmed through your post, if it were me, I would do whatever is necessary to get ALL of the cover plastic off. I mean ALL of it, in front of and behind the belts, and re-assemble it with zero covers of any sort. I have done this on several cars now and am happy with the results. Easier to diagnose leaks, easier to change t-belts, easier to inspect "stuff". The only way I would be hesitant doing this would be if the car is lifted and the timing belts could be subject to debris and stuff. Thanks, Spencer

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So as far as leaving the belt covers off is concerned, lifting the car means off-road, right? Since I'm not doing any off-roading, I don't need to concern myself with the belt covers? I'm pretty sure that is exactly what you just said but I'd like to be certain.

 

Are there any everyday conditions I might worry about, like driving through puddles or something, I do live in Oregon?

 

Also, where are the 5 bolts I need to remove to take off the oil pump? Are they just on the other side of the outer middle belt cover?

 

Oh, secondarily, my question about the oil pan: should I replace all the bolts? They seem pretty worn. How do I get to the ones on the other side of whatever is in the way? I don't know what it's called but it seems to be part of what ever is holding on to the half axles.

 

-Thanks a lot.

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So as far as leaving the belt covers off is concerned, lifting the car means off-road, right? Since I'm not doing any off-roading, I don't need to concern myself with the belt covers? I'm pretty sure that is exactly what you just said but I'd like to be certain.

 

Precisely......

 

Are there any everyday conditions I might worry about, like driving through puddles or something, I do live in Oregon?

 

Negatory, you'll be fine.....

 

Also, where are the 5 bolts I need to remove to take off the oil pump? Are they just on the other side of the outer middle belt cover?

 

Once you get through all the covers, I'm pretty certain the bolts will present themselves to you.

 

Oh, secondarily, my question about the oil pan: should I replace all the bolts? They seem pretty worn. How do I get to the ones on the other side of whatever is in the way? I don't know what it's called but it seems to be part of what ever is holding on to the half axles.

 

-Thanks a lot.

 

Not 100% clear on this one. The only thing I could imagine preventing access to any of the pan bolts would be the engine crossmember. Once the skid plate is off (providing you still have one) you should be able to access nearly 75% of the pan bolts very easily, the other 25% (the ones closest to the rear of the car) should be able to be reached with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and a universal joint with an extension?!?! I wouldn't think the bolts would be extremely "worn" as you describe. Be very careful not to over-torque them, they're only threading into aluminum! I believe the torque rating on these bolts is only like 12ft.lbs.? If you have a book it will have a page with the torque values on it. Look it up! If you don't have a book for this car.... Get one!!

 

Hope this helps, Spencer

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Oh, secondarily, my question about the oil pan: should I replace all the bolts? They seem pretty worn. How do I get to the ones on the other side of whatever is in the way? I don't know what it's called but it seems to be part of what ever is holding on to the half axles.

 

The part blocking access to all the pan bolts is known as the "engine cross-member" - it's what the engine is bolted to and in turn the cross-member is bolted to the frame. Other things call it home as well such as the control arms, steering rack, etc.

 

There are holes in the cross-member for you to use a large phillips screwdriver to access the pan bolts which are not easily accesible with a socket. You will have to unbolt the engine from the cross-member and jack it up a bit to get the pan to clear the pickup tube, etc.

 

For the oil pan gasket - get it from the dealer ONLY and then coat all surfaces in Grey RTV and let it dry before installation. This will keep the cork from absorbing engine oil and turning hard/shrinking with age. And then make sure you torque the pan bolts properly. They are tricky. It's best if you just install them with a screwdriver rather than a ratchet. The torque value is relatively light.

 

Replaceing the bolts with some new black oxide bolts and star washers is never a bad idea but finding one's that have phillips heads can be tricky. Typically I opt to replace the lock washers with new star washers and I keep the original bolts.

 

GD

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