Dfreeman321 Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 i have tried it all wires plugs injectors compression check moved wires plugs and injectors but nothing has helped got a solid cyl3 misfire runs like crap need help tried it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Hows the compression on #3? Also, the Subaru engine control software kills the injector pulse to one cylinder if it detects uncontrolled high idle RPM. If you disconnect the battery and the car briefly runs on all 4 and is idling high, you'll know that's what's going on. Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfreeman321 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 #1 and #3 were both at 180 psi, i did have a unexpected high idle code that hasn't come back it ran good for a few and has slowly ************ out now i cant drive it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 There is sticky valve and checking secondary voltage on a scope type analyzer to actually See how one spark relates to the others. There is of course the hydraulic lifters and a reason they went away from them. Some tech more "in tune " to this may help you soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Have you disconnected the battery since the unexpected high idle code? I'm not sure that clearing codes with a scanner will reset this. Check the #3 injector for a pulse with a "noid" light. I'm skeptical about "sticking valve" theory with 180psi compression on #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfreeman321 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 (edited) me too i had the ex down and the valves looked OK ill try that in the am thanks so maybe ecm or bad injector wire? but with one bad injector the car should still run, it doesn't want to run at all Edited October 5, 2010 by Dfreeman321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfreeman321 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 but if the ex valve dont open then that could be it, but with 180 in 1 and 3 ill check 2 and 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfreeman321 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 (edited) it seemed to run better with the batt disconnected for a few then 10feet later dyed out no power 3 misfire and the noid light test seemed to be ok all the patterns where the same Edited October 5, 2010 by Dfreeman321 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dfreeman321 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 no luck still. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 "Ignitor." "MAF Sensor." "Oxygen Sensors." All suggestions I have not been able to afford testing. I am having a very similar problem.. but mine only shows up after driving a while and on really hot days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 ECU. A failing/bad ECU can cause a misfire on just one cylinder. It did for me and I replaced the ECU and it went away. Find one from a junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 The no power was caused by a failing fuel pump that couldn't make more than 20psi. We replaced the pump with a used one, 32psi at idle and 60+psi with the return hose squeezed shut. It runs much better, but There is still a cyl 3 missfire. Tried swapping coil packs, ignitor, new plugs and wires, spare known good wires, injectors, checked crank sproket reluctor teeth for damage, checked t-belt timing, swapped out MAF. Swapped crank sensors. The O2 sensor could probably do with replacing, it was the one that was downstream from a 2.5 with blown headgaskets for a while. We might switch back to the 2.2ecu that we swapped in for a while before we figured out the fuel pump issue. We've shotgunned pretty much every known-good part we had available, to no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 The no power was caused by a failing fuel pump that couldn't make more than 20psi. We replaced the pump with a used one, 32psi at idle and 60+psi with the return hose squeezed shut. It runs much better, but There is still a cyl 3 missfire. Tried swapping coil packs, ignitor, new plugs and wires, spare known good wires, injectors, checked crank sproket reluctor teeth for damage, checked t-belt timing, swapped out MAF. Swapped crank sensors. The O2 sensor could probably do with replacing, it was the one that was downstream from a 2.5 with blown headgaskets for a while. We might switch back to the 2.2ecu that we swapped in for a while before we figured out the fuel pump issue. We've shotgunned pretty much every known-good part we had available, to no luck. I hate to say it, but you might be looking at a bent or burned valve on cyl 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 If it was a valve problem then it would show on a comp. test. Burned exhaust valve would probably be around 75 psi or less. The one I just did was 60 psi and the one before that was 5 (yes just 5) . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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