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Loss of power or something slipping during acceleration...


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Hi, I've been working on my '97 Legacy GT and have do the following:

 

- HG job with new timing belt and pullies

- Fill and drain of the transmission fluid

- SeaFoam treat ment and fresh oil change

 

When I drive the car more aggresively I just noticed that I hear a belt type screaching and loss of power, you can see the rpm meter go down a tad. Like something is slipping? Any ideas?

 

Also, the engine is idling somewhat rouch with "hiccups" now and then? Should I change out the spark plugs?

 

Thanks

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Hi,

Are you 100% sure you're T-belt is on correctly? Did you count the teeth on the belt between marks or just go off the marks on the belt and covers?

 

Did you replace all the pulleys?...The belt 'screaching' makes me think a pulley is bad.

 

Did you replace the belt tensioner? Or reuse the original one? If original, did you slowly compress it, per the FSM?

 

GL,

TD

 

 

(500 posts FTW!-Finally!)

Edited by wtdash
500!
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I've been driving it for about 300 miles without noticing any of these problems. The rough idle started after the sea foam treatment, but now the loss of power. This leads to the timing belt, sounds like. The loss of power occured when compressing the acceleration pedal most of the way at a slow speed as to accelerate fast. Power loss occured during that strain if you know what I mean.

 

I did count the teeth and lined it up with the markings on the sprockets. Replaced all the pullies and compressed the tensioner extremely slowly like the specifications asked for and feel I did that right.

 

Should I open it up again?

 

Thanks

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Automatic Transmission

Spark plugs looked good when I inspected them, wires are old.

O2 sensor from when I did the sea foam treatment? there were a lot of gunk in the intake, not sure if that can get affected...

 

Could it be a small oil leak and the timing belt might be slipping on the idler pully at high rev's?

 

Thanks

Edited by 86GLScooby
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I took off the driver's side timing belt cover to have a look at the belt and I'm wondering how much tention should be on the belt as it is there. The belt looks clean, no proof of oil leaks. Perhaps I need to pull the middle cover and take a look at the tensioner.

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Yeah, I think it's time for new wires and plugs... what's recommended? I tried to search for wires on 1stsubaru.com with no luck. I'll take a look at my local dealer or would napa/autoparts have it? Thanks

 

ngk plugs, and ngk/oem wires. the auto parts store wire just don't hold up, they are pretty poor in quality

 

NGK wires are only 42 bucks on http://www.rockauto.com

Edited by Ricearu
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Edit: ^ What he said. :-)

 

 

You'll find on here that just about everyone recommends OEM wires. I've also seen Magnecor and NGK used. I bought my NGK wires from NAPA (had to order them). Don't go cheap!

 

Plugs - unfortunately, due to their cost, the stock NGK's are again your best bet. But I've had a couple Subie mechanics whom I trust tell me the equivalent copper version are fine, too....you'll just need to change them sooner...but if you've done plugs on the 2.5 DOHC you know it's not a job you'll want to do again soon!

 

Td

Edited by wtdash
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Thanks, I'll get those at rockauto, I'm familiar with their site. They need doing.

 

I double checked my work from when I did the sea foam and saw that I didn't clip one of the air/vacuum hoses (the one down by the engine) and so I took off the parts to get to it and clipped it on right. Haven't run the engine on hot temp., but no hiccups on cold start up and run for 5 min. Engine sounds good from what I can tell.

 

In regards to the power loss, would that occur if my alternator belt slipped?

 

Thanks

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The cheap ones have always worked best for me.

FSM lists these as OE plugs for 97:

Spark plug

Type ............... Manufacturer

 

RC10YC4 .......... CHAMPION

BKR6E-11 .......... NGK

K20PR-U11 .......... NIPPONDENSO

 

Thread size mm 14, P = 1.25

Spark gap mm (in) 1.0 — 1.1 (0.039 — 0.043)

 

Be sure to check gap before installation. It makes a big difference.

 

Power loss started after the seafoam treatment, chances are it fouled the plugs, but you also said you found a loose vacuum hose. Change the plugs and wires and take it for a drive before troubleshooting anything else.

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I referenced my Haynes manual and the 2.2l engine takes NGK BKR6E-11 plugs, but my 2.5l engine takes NGK PFR5B-11 plugs. They ended up being the premium platinum's at $10 a piece. So I'll end up doing that. Just wondering if I should order a tentioner while I'm at it.

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Went driving this morning and still something is slipping, a high screeching noise and loss of power. Could a bad tensioner have symptoms like this? Can anything by the timing belt slip to cause this? It is an interference engine and it is still driving. I drove about 40 miles today and it started doing it by the end of the trip. I would like to fix whatever is causing this, any advice would be appreciated.

 

I installed a gates timing belt kit... maybe I should have gone subaru, trying to save some money.

 

ZZZ - I'm not really sure what happens to the engine that causes it to hiccup...

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Went driving this morning and still something is slipping, a high screeching noise and loss of power. Could a bad tensioner have symptoms like this? Can anything by the timing belt slip to cause this? It is an interference engine and it is still driving. I drove about 40 miles today and it started doing it by the end of the trip. I would like to fix whatever is causing this, any advice would be appreciated.

 

I installed a gates timing belt kit... maybe I should have gone subaru, trying to save some money.

 

ZZZ - I'm not really sure what happens to the engine that causes it to hiccup...

 

this doesn't sound timing belt related to me. if the timing belt slips, the car will run crappy and it will not ''heal'' or drive ok when cold, i don't think.

 

it sounds more like a trans problem. or maybe the sound is the a/c or alt belt and not directly related to the power problem.

 

double check the trans fluid level.

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