February 28, 200422 yr 1994 Subaru Loyal Wagon New Clutch, new engine block, new gaskets, new radiator, new hoses, and such.... But now, (And I have charged the battery) when I turn the key, everything shorts out, and I lose all power. Until I turn the ignition, I have power, then I turn the key and I have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get power again. No blown fuses, in the fuse box, all the fusible links are fine. HELP!!! -Rob (I am in Mt. View CA, if anyone is local and can give me a hand, it would be much appreciated)
February 28, 200422 yr Author OK, just got back in from messing with it. Gaaaa.. When the starter is in the car, the whole things shorts out. When it is out of the car, it doesn't spin or move at all. I think it is hosed. That sux. Any input would be a huge help. -Rob
February 29, 200422 yr Rob it sure sounds like the positive cable and the negative cable are backward on the starter. There is a bolt on the back of the starter, this big cable must run to the + terminal of the battery. Could by chance you have this connected to the negative terminal? Please have another look at it and reply
February 29, 200422 yr does it just click or does it draw alot of current? The solenoid contacts go bad, preventing the starter motor from engaging. What can also happen is a bad spot on the armature, and if it stops on that spot it wont move again until you rotate it past manually. Try pounding on it with a hammer while you've got current through it, or rotating it then trying it, to see whether these are the problems. wait I read more, it does sound like shorting out, so that would likely rule out what i said above
February 29, 200422 yr Author The crazy thing is that I did't touch the starter when we did the swap. This is why I am so confused. If I can't figure it out by Wednesday, I think I am going to give up and take it to the dealership. Grrrr... -Rob.
February 29, 200422 yr it sounds like you have a bad connection some were your best bet is to leave the key in the on postion and go around and start jiggling wires around near your fuseable link box first they like to corrode under the box then double check all of your connections under the hood
March 1, 200422 yr Originally posted by Abue If I can't figure it out by Wednesday, I think I am going to give up and take it to the dealership. Grrrr... -Rob. Gads ... I'd rather saw my arm off first! Stick with it brother. :-p John Wilke Milwaukee
March 1, 200422 yr The only time this has ever happened to me (and it has happened a few times) is when I am working on a car and not bothered to tighten the bolts holding the cables to the battery posts. When you attempt to engage the starter, it draws so much current that one of the terminals often arcs out. Moving the cable will get a good enough connector to get dash lights, etc., but you will lose it again if you try to start the engine again. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and the connectors are on REALLY TIGHT. Good Luck! -Louis- '91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon
April 25, 200421 yr Author Ahh the project that seems to go on forever... Long story short, I can't get it to start. The starter is turning the engine, I am getting a spark. I took off the distributor, rotated cylinder 1 to TDC and then to B20, then replaced the distributer. (aligned the little hole) The starter turns over the engine, and then NADA. I think there is fuel getting in. (I smell it.) And this Chilton book I have is ALL BUT FRIGGEN USELESS! HELP!
April 25, 200421 yr Author Now the car is running, but I seem to be getting a slow antifreze leak from the top of the engine. Gotta trace it. And then tune it up a bit. Need a timing gun. -Rob
April 26, 200421 yr Hellloooooo Tribe member (happy grin) I wonder *IF* you have seen the specific threads about the vagueness that are Chiltons' manuals for "timing the engines" of our subarus. the book (correct me where i am wrong folks) misses a step entirely for Chilton where the FSM describes much better. The starting situation with the from Cam covers off to see the "hole/notch" in the cam wheels.... drivers side "hole" in cam needs to be at TDC on the notch in the cam cover backplate *With the flywheel at 0 degrees* IIRC THEN tuyrn the crank 360 degrees and then**** then you turn the crank untill the passenger side Cam "hole" is lined up with the notch at TDC (AKA 12 O'clock) this is EA82 correct alightment and then you can look in the #1 cyl for adjusting the TDC of the piston is carrectly matched and then drop in the dizzy for buttoning it all up.... did i screw up you train of though Abue? take care..... I'm off to Florida for a week with Gramma and the two great aunties.....
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