Hey all, i have a lifted '87 Gl wagon i got cheap, i'll attach a picture so yall can see it, and consider this my newbie post!

 

Anyhow, i recently fixed the Hill holder leaking problem lots of people seem to have buy using a 3 way Tee, and those who are looking for it call up brakequip part number- BQ91A It is M10x1.0 with the proper flare.

 

Next, my heat on my wagon blows hot when i turn it on, but within 5-10 secs gets colder until its lukewarm, not very awesome since i reguarly drive from houston,tx - omaha, ne, where it is very cold. what could cause this? i have replaced the thermostat, maybe plugged heater core? how can i flush it if so?

 

next, what are the symptoms of a bad brake booster? i am positive i have no brake fluid leaks, but my pedal goes to almost the floor instantly and its rock solid from there, but i can push hard and stop, like having manual brakes. and while th cars idleing (hence pulling vacumn on the booster) i can manage to pump up some pressure, but it goes away quickly. once again, i do not have any leaks.

 

Any help is greatly appriciated!

 

Thanks,

Joe

 

Mods-

4inch lift

weber carb

and lots of other little stuff lol

 

 

 

 

And this is my 10 sec daily drivable 2001 Z28-

 

 

Try re-bleeding the brakes in a dual-diagonal fashion, starting with the RR wheel, LF, LR, RF. IF the hill holder is still functional, try bleeding the brake with the clutch depressed when doing the rears.

I've bled them multiple times in that fashion, and i deleted the Hill Holder completely.

It sounds like one circuit in your master cylinder is bad - the way it goes almost to the floor before getting stiff..... have you bled the master cylinder?

 

Rebuild kits are availible cheap - try www.rockauto.com. They are easy to rebuild and that might just solve your problem. Do a bench-bleed before installation.

 

The boosters almost never fail - I've never heard of it anyway. Possible but unlikley.

 

Nice lookin wasgon BTW.

 

GD

It sounds like one circuit in your master cylinder is bad - the way it goes almost to the floor before getting stiff..... have you bled the master cylinder?

 

Rebuild kits are availible cheap - try www.rockauto.com. They are easy to rebuild and that might just solve your problem. Do a bench-bleed before installation.

 

The boosters almost never fail - I've never heard of it anyway. Possible but unlikley.

 

Nice lookin wasgon BTW.

 

GD

 

Thanks for the info, i will look into the master cylinder. Can it be bled on the car?

Yes - there are bleeder screws right on the MC. It's the first thing you should bleed before doing the calipers. It sounds like there's a serious air bubble on your primary circuit or there's a bad seal in the MC.

 

GD

Yes - there are bleeder screws right on the MC. It's the first thing you should bleed before doing the calipers. It sounds like there's a serious air bubble on your primary circuit or there's a bad seal in the MC.

 

GD

 

Well i suck, lol. I didnt know that. Can you give me a quick step by step on bleed the MC? is it the same process as the calipers only im cracking the bleeder on the MC?

Yep - same procedure. Just use a bleeder bottle and crack the bleeder open. Sometimes they can be a pain and thus the bench bleed - for that I use some fittings that plug the outlet ports to provide back pressure.

 

GD

Alright, im thinking thats what it is. Thanks a ton for the help! i'll try that tomorrow and let you know how it goes!

Never got a chance to work on the brakes today.

 

My biggest concern is the heat, any help there?

Definitely want to flush out the core - pull the hoses off and flush it both ways with a garden hose.

 

GD

Alright, im really hoping that will do it. because it looks like replacing the core would be a pain! lol

 

Some people have been telling me its airlock, is this a possiblilty?

 

It's SOO cold in Nebraska right now!

Flushing the heater core did not solve my heat issue. Im stumped beyond belief.

Flushing the heater core did not solve my heat issue. Im stumped beyond belief.

 

If both heater hoses are at least hot/warm flow should be OK.How did it seem when you flushed it?

 

If the hoses are hot,maybe one of the heater control doors is flapping in the breeze.

It flushed out clear, where are said heater flap doors?

This is the best thing to flush a heater core with. It's a 5/8 inch garden hose replacement. It fits perfectly inside a heater hose.

 

 

My Brat had a funky heater when I had it. I found a replacement radiator cap solved my problems on the spot.