I recently picked up the GT, after previous owner swapped a 2.2 into the wagon. First time I drove it had a little noise when cold, now getting worse.

 

Sounds sort of like this clip I found on U-tube.

 

98 Forester Automatic Transmission Noise

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5gZZqr3*********

 

(could not seem to get link to paste right,I'll try to fix, newbie user)

 

 

It does get quieter during the shift between gears, but does not greatly slip or lag between gears, or not want to shift.

 

Other info, I have drained and refilled trans fluid twice, first time added seafoam, second time trans-x. I have a friction modifier to add with next flush. First drain was very dark, second time dark, but you could see red in the fluid. Also the pan is pushed up in the middle, not leaking though. I saw in another post this could cause problems, any pictures out there of bottom of trans without the pan to see what might have been damaged.

 

 

I'm picking up another trans for potential swap when it gets warmer, Engine looks like I'm going to have to do cam seals, also.

 

Any other things I should be looking into, anything could have been damaged during the swap?

 

Thanks in advance for any input

 

Greg

Edited December 16, 201015 yr by gregB
tried to fix link

I have a friction modifier to add with next flush.

DO NOT PUT FRICTION MODIFIER IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek::eek:

Friction modifier is designed to allow clutch type limited slip differentials to slip EASIER.

It WILL destroy the clutches in an automatic trans.

 

Think a few letters got cut off the end of your link URL. Was this the video? you linked? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5gZZqr3*********

 

That noise, if it is being cause by the transmission, is likely the fluid pump. This is often caused by incorrect installation of the torque converter after an engine or trans removal.

The trans might be hosed anyway.

 

But there are a few other things that can make similar noises. Pulleys will whine if the bearings go bad. You can remove the accessory belts and start the engine to determine if any of the pulley bearings have failed.

Timing belt idler bearings. These area bit more involved to check but they do often fail on engines with over 100k miles.

I can't seem to get a link to post correctlly, gives a malformed video Id error message from U-tube?? But if you search on the 98 surabu forester noise, its justa couple of spots own on the list, mine soundds the same.

 

 

Maybe friction modifier was the wrong words, Is there a type of additive to help quiet pump, torque converter chatter that will not damage clutchpack etc?

Maybe friction modifier was the wrong words, Is there a type of additive to help quiet pump, torque converter chatter that will not damage clutchpack etc?

 

Not that I know of. There are some transmission additives out there, Stop leak, stop slip that kind of thing, But none that really get rid of noises.

If it's full of air it can make some noise. If the fluid level is too high it will cavitate and the fluid will foam. Foam causes problems in power steering pumps. A trans pump works basically the same.

 

Do you check the fluid level with the engine idling, warm, in park, after shifting through all gears?

Yes on the fluid level warm, idle, thru all gears and in neutral.

 

The pan is dented up from the bottom. Where is the pick-up located?

 

I seem to remember seeing post where somones pick-up came loose and caused "pump" noise. Maybe it is cavitating from lack of proper volume of fluid?

 

Maybe before swapping trans's I'll drop the pan for a look.

 

Greg

The pan is dented up from the bottom. Where is the pick-up located?

 

Maybe before swapping trans's I'll drop the pan for a look.

 

Greg

 

/\ +1, good idea.

 

loosen all the pan bolts before you remove them, and do not let the pan hang from just one or 2 bolts. you don't want to bend the edge, mating surface.

Check THIS old post about a dented pan...may help, too.

GL,

TD

Maybe before swapping trans's I'll drop the pan for a look.

That would be great if that's all it is! Not sure what sounds a starved pump makes, but that's definitely worth looking into.

Well,

 

I dropped the pan today. Did not have to worry about the pan falling down as I was removing screws, the orange rtv gasket held it well in place. Had to use a sharpened butter knife, then screwdrivers with hammer to get it loose. Found the pickup filter assembly pushed up against the filter element. Looked like it was drastically reducing the flow of ATF. Now to order replacement parts.

 

i'lll try to post pics of the damage later.

 

Greg

Did not buy parts, some confusion on the two dealers I talked to about parts, and needed to get it back together.

 

 

Straightened the pan with my press, used a trim pry bar to pull the pick-up back into shape.

 

Any last minute suggestions on how to re-install pan with RTV and get a good seal.

 

I have made a cradle for the small floor jack to hold it up to the trans, to install the bolts. any suggestions on whether to put the RTV on the trans case or the pan?

 

thanks

 

Greg

Put the rtv on the pan. Dont put to much either. I actually bought a gasket instead you can't get them at the dealership but I think just auto parts places have them like napa. I got mine from autopartsway.com .

You can buy a rubber gasket and avoid the chance of RTV leaking.

 

Otherwise, apply RTV to the pan, raise it into place and put all the bolts in finger tight until the RTV dries. The trick here is to get the bottom of the transmission sealing surface 100% clean and free of oil. Then keep it that way for long enough to get the pan in place, so the RTV can make a clean seal. Not easy to do with ATF constantly dripping out of the trans. Though if it has been apart for a few days a fair amount has probably dripped away and that helps.

re fill it with ATF and a bottle of trans-x to top it off.

:banana: Went to Advance Auto yesterday, bought a gasket, put it together last night with a thin bead of Pernatex Black RTV, as there were one or two gouges from prying.

 

Added fluid this morning, and no pump noise

 

No leaks so far.

 

Now on to the rest of the new to me car issues, Rack mount bushings, rack boots, Cam seals (probably, not to suprising from a Junk yard motor). Not gushing, just annoying drip, and occasional smell.

 

Thanks for the suggestions on this fix.

 

Greg

Edited December 23, 201015 yr by gregB

only get OE cam seals from the dealer, you might as well do a t-belt job while its all open.

That was my thought, also the seperator plate while it is out. I am going to try and hold off until Spring though. Wife has been tolerant of me using her heated garage so far but do not want to push the issue right now. And my two bay shop garage does not even have a ceiling, just ridge vents to let any heat out.

 

Greg

Great to hear that! Hopefully the noise stays gone and no harm done.