thefalsediviner Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 My 92 loyale which I just did a complete reseal on wont start now that I have it in the vehicle. Timing is set up right TDS with disty rotor at #1. fuel line hooked to the regulator on the TB Getting spark but no fuel i think Any ideas. thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 My 92 loyale which I just did a complete reseal on wont start now that I have it in the vehicle.Timing is set up right TDS with disty rotor at #1. fuel line hooked to the regulator on the TB Getting spark but no fuel i think Any ideas. thefalsediviner A couple questions: You did a reseal, which implies that you removed the timing belts, right? If so, the major cause of issues is not getting the t-belts on correctly, so please bear with me. Did you set the crankshaft so that the center of the 3 marks on the flywheel was next to the pointer on the flywheel-access "window"? With the 3 marks aligned, did you set the first belt with the dot on the cam pulley pointing straight up at its alignment mark on the cover?, Did you then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, align the 3 marks again, and install the other t-belt so its dot was pointing straight up at the alignment mark on its cover? Did you then have one cam dot up and the other cam dot down? Did you at any time remove the Distributor? If so, are you SURE that you put it in correctly, or could it be 180 (disty)deg off? If unsure about fuel, a little supplemental fuel supplied to the intake will help sort that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 if Everything, including Timing is Allright; then I Kindly Suggest you to Check the Fusible Links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 The fuel pressure regulator is after the injector, on the return line. You have the fuel lines backward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 "The fuel pressure regulator is after the injector, on the return line. You have the fuel lines backward." I've had it both ways, switched it back and still no go. I'm sure the Disty Timing and belts are right so I'll check the fusible links, although the car was running when I pulled the engine. thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I bet the timing belts are mis-aligned. The way i described the fuel lines is correct. The timing belts do not align to th TDC mark, and are 180 deg from eachother. Can you describe how you did the timing belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Are you ge4tting fuel to the front or rear fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 MilesFox-I set the timing as per your write up in the manual. The cams were lined up using the lll marks. then the distributor was installed with the TDC mark and the marks on the distributor. the distributor rotor is at #1 position when the Flywheel is at TDC which was set up using the finger in the spark plug hole method. I'm 100% sure that I have the timing and timing belts set up right. I have the firing order as 1324 and the fuel line are hooked up right. Is it possible that my fuel pump has failed while the car was sitting for 2.5 months? And how do I check fusible links with my multimeter? thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 ...how do I check fusible links with my multimeter? ... Just Place it on the Ώ Ohms Position to Test Continuity; So when you touch both Multimeter's pins Together, the Needle Goes Up all the Way (Or the Unit emit a "Beep" depending on the Model) That's Continuity. Then you just Place the Multimeter's Pins in Both Sides of the Fusible Links and See if it has Continuity. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) if you dont have volt meter just unhook those gas line from the carb and run the line into the jar and turn it on see if gas will come out .. thats what i did and it was one quick way to do it when you are in a bind lol but not recommened Edited January 19, 2011 by soobies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 MilesFox-I set the timing as per your write up in the manual. The cams were lined up using the lll marks. then the distributor was installed with the TDC mark and the marks on the distributor. the distributor rotor is at #1 position when the Flywheel is at TDC which was set up using the finger in the spark plug hole method. I'm 100% sure that I have the timing and timing belts set up right. I have the firing order as 1324 and the fuel line are hooked up right. Is it possible that my fuel pump has failed while the car was sitting for 2.5 months? And how do I check fusible links with my multimeter? thefalsediviner It is possible the disty could be 180. If you follow the article, you would install your 2nd belt, and then rotate the crank another 360 to be back where you begin with. It is from there, when the disty side cam is pointing up, you rotate the crank until the TDC mark comes to view, and install the disty. The passenger side cam dot will be pointing to the hard edge of the valve cover just above SUBARU when the #1 piston is at TDC and just to state the obvious, #1 cylinder is on the passenger side front. Make sure your plug wires are routed correctly!(if you can verify this for us) Looks like you did your research. Try these videos if they may be more concise in comprehension. (timing belt) (distributor timing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefalsediviner Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 So I went over everything I could think of. Had the multimeter out and everything kept checking out, still no fuel. Then I decided that it had to be a bad fuel pump, but how does that happen with the car sitting? So I looked online and found that new pumps are spendy. Then I thought how does a pump go bad sitting? so I took my ball peen and tapped that fuel pump ever so gently a few times and, low and behold, the darn thing started right up and runs like a champ. With my health and having the car sit for 2.5 months must have made the bushings or what ever stick. thanks everyone thefalsediviner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) Corrosion.The pump is still bad.Change it before it leaves you stranded. You can use a cheaper ford truck pump.Search the board for details. Edited January 28, 2011 by naru more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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