travis1990 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I've been having this problem for a while and I'm worried one day it'll get me stranded somewhere. When I turn the key to start nothing happens. I hear a loud CLICK from under the hood and thats it. It won't even turn over. I have to turn the key on and off what seems like 2 or 3 dozen times before it'll start. One thing I've been doing to help is open up the hood and turn the motor over by hand to get it off the compression hump. This helps a little bit but lately it doesn't seem to. I have a new battery, new alternator, and a newish starter from my parts car. I've also tried to clean up the wires at the battery terminal. Next I'll try replacing the starter cables entirely. Any advice if that doesn't help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 how much miles of ur car? i could be know abt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 If the headlights go dim after the click,it is a bad battery or connections. If the headlights don`t go dim after the click,it will be worn solenoid contacts or possibly insufficient voltage supply to the solenoid.Measure the voltage at the solenoid to determine which. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 how much miles of ur car? i could be know abt it. About 126,xxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 If the headlights go dim after the click,it is a bad battery or connections. If the headlights don`t go dim after the click,it will be worn solenoid contacts or possibly insufficient voltage supply to the solenoid.Measure the voltage at the solenoid to determine which. I'll try watching the lights to see if they dim. How do I measure the voltage to the solenoid. I'm not quite sure what that is to be honest or where its located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Ignition coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Solenoid is the pop can sized thing on the starter w/wires attached.It is just a big relay. If the lights stay bright,check solenoid voltage by putting a voltmeter between the small(black/white?) wire on the back of the solenoid and battery -.Note the voltage while attempting to start.Much less than 12v indicates a problem w/the neutral safety switch(if auto),ignition switch or intervening connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 About 126,xxx werido...could be damage Distributor Cap or Distributor? or coil but doubtfully. dose you speeding alot? if so, could be damage timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I cleaned all the connections with sand paper. It seems to be helping. I've already started it at least 10 times in a row and it fired right up. Just to be on the safe side i'm gunna put some new battery cables on it because they seem pretty corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ITs the contacts inside the ignition switch. common problem. If you get stranded by this, you can jump a wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter to kick her over. The problem is not the starter, and replacing it will do no good. The easiest thing to do is run a pushbutton, or rebuild/replace the ign switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 ITs the contacts inside the ignition switch. common problem. If you get stranded by this, you can jump a wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter to kick her over. The problem is not the starter, and replacing it will do no good. The easiest thing to do is run a pushbutton, or rebuild/replace the ign switch That pushbutton setup sounds pretty neat. Is there detailed instructions on how to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ITs the contacts inside the ignition switch. common problem. If you get stranded by this, you can jump a wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter to kick her over. The problem is not the starter, and replacing it will do no good. The easiest thing to do is run a pushbutton, or rebuild/replace the ign switch Wouldnt it also work to gut out the ignition and use a screw driver? i know i have some rigs like that for me. Then again i live in the middle of nowhere so theft is not an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 The ignition swithc is the part you would use a screwdriver. Not anything to do with the key, unless it doesnt turn all the way. The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw circuit for the solenoid. You can run a wire through the clutch or speedo grommet, and feed the wire under the dash to place a button where the fog light switch would be on the dash, or the knoclkout plate on the bezel(87 and up whre the fan switch would be on 85-86), or wherever. You do not need a high amp bulky button like you see at the auto stores. the 'horn' button will roek, or any nuicer momentary contact button with a retauning nut to mount into a hole. Run from the starter to the button, and then from the button to a 12v source. You can borrow power from the fuse panel at a fuse that is on with run, acc, or hot all the time. My preference is 12v live when key off, for purposes of maintenance. you can use fuse 5. if you tie in elsewhere, put a fuse in the circuit in case the wire grounds out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 The ignition swithc is the part you would use a screwdriver. Not anything to do with the key, unless it doesnt turn all the way. The small tab on the back of the starter is a low draw circuit for the solenoid. You can run a wire through the clutch or speedo grommet, and feed the wire under the dash to place a button where the fog light switch would be on the dash, or the knoclkout plate on the bezel(87 and up whre the fan switch would be on 85-86), or wherever. You do not need a high amp bulky button like you see at the auto stores. the 'horn' button will roek, or any nuicer momentary contact button with a retauning nut to mount into a hole. Run from the starter to the button, and then from the button to a 12v source. You can borrow power from the fuse panel at a fuse that is on with run, acc, or hot all the time. My preference is 12v live when key off, for purposes of maintenance. you can use fuse 5. if you tie in elsewhere, put a fuse in the circuit in case the wire grounds out Sorry my bad LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis1990 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Well, I went out today and it wouldn't turn over at all. Yesterday it started about 8 times in a row. I thought I had it fixed by cleaning the cables. I put it a new negative battery cable and still no go. I guess i'll have to run that push button setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G "tinker" Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 some cars if the distributer is to far advanced will make it a hard start... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Repair a new distributer or check the under distributer's cap if there have a damage like a burn/melt..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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