February 13, 201115 yr I need one and I have a parts brat. Now the question is it easier to order one and where could I get one at..or is there a possibility to get one out of my parts brat. Has anyone ever tried to pull one out is it worth trying? Dont want to dig it out of the snow to find out it is useless.
February 13, 201115 yr manifild bolts and studs are almost impossible without a good amount of time and usually power tools. id run to a local auto supply store and they should be able to set you up
February 13, 201115 yr Author manifild bolts and studs are almost impossible without a good amount of time and usually power tools. id run to a local auto supply store and they should be able to set you up That is pretty much what I thought thanks.
February 13, 201115 yr take one with you and match it. the stores won't be able to find one for a subaru via looking it up. but they always have them in stock. the ones i usually find you have to install one way though. they have a part on them that isnt' threaded, so you install the "short side" of the threads into the block so to speak that way the unthreaded portion resides where the manifold is so to speak. make sense? it'll all make sense when you get it home, just get the 10x1.25 exhaust manifold studs (i think that's the measurements).
February 13, 201115 yr ^ I just made a set from bolts for an ej22. Just cut the head off the bolt and chase the threads. Works fine.
February 13, 201115 yr On my '86 Brat the nut stayed in placed as the stud turned its way out of the Head, This happened to 3 of the 4 studs. Luckly they threaded in fine and I was able to torque them back down. Remember that they thread into aluminum which is very soft so be carefull when tightening them up, If i can remember right they only torque to 15-25 ft lbs
February 13, 201115 yr On my '86 Brat the nut stayed in placed as the stud turned its way out of the Head, This happened to 3 of the 4 studs. Luckly they threaded in fine and I was able to torque them back down. Remember that they thread into aluminum which is very soft so be carefull when tightening them up, If i can remember right they only torque to 15-25 ft lbs That's not really a good idea. With the studs you aren't putting that much turning force on the aluminum threads. It's all pulling force when you torque the nut down. But when you're torquing them in like that you're much more liable to rip the threads out of the head. Glad it worked for you, but I wouldn't suggest doing that.
February 13, 201115 yr Might want to look at MilesFox's post in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119071 Must be winter maintenance time... ther are 4 or 5 of these exhaust stud questions floating around this week.
February 14, 201115 yr Author I think I will head off to napa and see what they can do. IF not then I will make some from bolts. Any guess on a good lenght. I have a heli-coil job to do first on the hole. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118774&highlight=heli+coil
February 14, 201115 yr I think I will head off to napa and see what they can do. IF not then I will make some from bolts. Any guess on a good lenght. I have a heli-coil job to do first on the hole. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118774&highlight=heli+coil I use bolts that are just a tad longer than the original studs. They can't really be too long.
February 14, 201115 yr take one with you and match it. the stores won't be able to find one for a subaru via looking it up. but they always have them in stock. the ones i usually find you have to install one way though. they have a part on them that isnt' threaded, so you install the "short side" of the threads into the block so to speak that way the unthreaded portion resides where the manifold is so to speak. make sense? it'll all make sense when you get it home, just get the 10x1.25 exhaust manifold studs (i think that's the measurements). I agree strongly withstuds, since they thread in first, and then the nut takes all the torque, versus a bolt that will bottom out and stretch the threads against its bore. The 'HELP' brand studs have a burr on the thread, and when you thread in the nut and stud as a 'bolt' the nut turns the stud til it bottoms out, and then the nut takes all the torque. It is recommended tou replace the studs with new anyt time the exhaust is serviced, since it is most likely to come out with the nut anyway. Continually torquing and vibrating loose of old or junk hardware will compromise the aluminum treads. New hardware will insure a proper install every time. If the original stud stays in the head, this is ok. Clean the threads and use a new nut if you wish.
February 15, 201115 yr Author I agree strongly withstuds, since they thread in first, and then the nut takes all the torque, versus a bolt that will bottom out and stretch the threads against its bore. The 'HELP' brand studs have a burr on the thread, and when you thread in the nut and stud as a 'bolt' the nut turns the stud til it bottoms out, and then the nut takes all the torque. It is recommended tou replace the studs with new anyt time the exhaust is serviced, since it is most likely to come out with the nut anyway. Continually torquing and vibrating loose of old or junk hardware will compromise the aluminum treads. New hardware will insure a proper install every time. If the original stud stays in the head, this is ok. Clean the threads and use a new nut if you wish. "Help" brand studs.. is that a napa thing??
February 15, 201115 yr "Help" brand studs.. is that a napa thing?? no, autozone, advance, o'reilleys carry them... the "help" brand covers lots of things. common things you need replacing... I even found a "help" brand inside door latch opener for my '96 yukon because they were a common failure item...
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