Ryuko91 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 I have been wanting to see this car drive around, and I wanted to buy it. Only 158K it's in Enumclaw, and it's not going to make it to Oak Harbor. I just drove it around it overheats pretty quickly and when it's hot it wants to die. I let it cool down, and it was normal again for a little bit, then the temp gauge goes up to right below the H(digidash). He said it drove fine, but he only drove it 11 miles from the auction. He's asking 500 for it, but in it's current state of leaky pop top and lack of seals, I don't want to go for it. There was some gunky foam under the oil cap before I started it. It hasn't ran in a while apparently. The main problem I have with it is the white exhaust pulses coming out of the oil filler tube and dipstick. It smoked for a couple minutes after I started it. When it's not hot, it pulls nicely, sure is a whole lot better than my auto 87 NA wagon. With the motor the way it is, is it worth getting? I wanted to get it because it was FWD and those get about 35MPG. The body only has one dent in the back and the paint isn't bad. It has rear disc brakes and the pop up roof, which leaks slightly, but the interior is in decent shape. The exhaust in the oil could maybe just be blow by from sitting? The oil isn't bad looking or watery. and about the over heating, the fans work, but I was going to go back and pull the Tstat and see if it still got hot. The current owner just went on vacation today but I have access to the car over the weekend. He's a friend of my aunt's and I'm staying at her house till monday. I would sure like to come home with this car. It runs decently when it's not hot. it idles at 650 to 700 rmps according to the tach. Might just go get some MMO and some motor oil. The lifters don't even tick! (sorry the picture is huge.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Its possible the t-stat is stuck, but I doubt it. Its most likely a headgasket is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Being a turbo, even FWD, you are not likely to see much above 25MPG. Turbone may be right about the HG, but also may be plugged radiator. May be both. (Turbone will be right about the HGs, either now or soon.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yeah knowing the ea82t's it could most defiantly be a head gasket, but the thing looks like it's in very good shape, then again where I live I have only seen one XT because they all rotted away. If it wasn't across the country I would snatch that up for 500! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) double post. Edited February 19, 2011 by Ryuko91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) I was thinking about some gasket sealant, but I don't want to trash the radiator or plug the heater core more than it already is. The oil doesn't look burnt or watery, but there was some bubbles in the coolant. I've never done a HG before, and I don't have a book with me. But I do my tools. And I know how to turn a wrench. I think it would only take me a couple hours to do the gaskets. Where should I get the gaskets from? Is there anyone around Auburn, Black Diamond, Covington or Enumnclaw that is experienced with EA-82Ts? I think I'm down here till Monday afternoon. Edited February 19, 2011 by Ryuko91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Yup, I'm about 7mi away. Might have time in the late afternoon to look at it, maybe. I have to work on my nieces 04 Malibu tomorrow :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Being a turbo, even FWD, you are not likely to see much above 25MPG. Ill attest to that. Almost had a heart attack when he said 35. Thought if he was right, something is seriously wrong with my wagon!! :-p 18mpg in all town driving with mine. Working on the first 50/50 tank now with some city and a bunch of highway. Looking more promising with 210 miles traveled at 1/4 of the tank left (was 210 and on E when I did all city) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) I get to do the front brakes on my aunt's 02 ford ranger today, so that's going to put a damper on my play time with the XT. (and I might go get some MMO and carb cleaner and play around with a chevy sprint that's been sitting here for 10 years) I could just wait another two weeks for a chance to come down here and work on it. In that time I could go to the JY and tear the heads off a turbo or two so I know how to do it (in the process maybe score a pair that aren't cracked or warped.) I'm a little concerned about the state of the heads. I drove it maybe 4 miles and the temps were dangerous, so I idled it to flow the coolant around for a minute or two and let the electric fan run. He drove the car 11 miles maybe 6 months ago, and I'm guessing he wasn't easy on the pedal. Could the HGs have worsened considerably by sitting for a few months?:-\ I looked into the MPG rating, "before adjustments" it was 26/35. On real gasoline in the 80s on flat roads? I saw a 1.8L Impreza on Craigslist with some body damage down the sides of it... Maybe that would get it up to 35mpg. I wish I had a shop down here to work with. I was spoiled with a full shop, complete with organized tools and heaters to reseal and replace the EA-81 in our Brat. And I've yet to have a problem with my wagon. Everyday it's WOT for a while(even if it is just to try to get to 60 within a minute...) :cool: Edited February 19, 2011 by Ryuko91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 the FWD non-turbo's can get 40....but that's ideal, like cruising all highway miles. i could see a turbo getting low 30's if you're really easy on it - but you'd have to have an ideal commute to work and go really easy on the go pedal to keep it out of boost to do it. possible....maybe...practical, probably not. and this is all assuming everythign else is in really good shape, injectors, rings, etc. head gasket jobs aren't terrible, you don't have to pull the motor, but removing the turbo bits is one of my least favorite parts. not many tricks except with all the bolts removed you have to coerce or tap the heads off the block with a 2x4/hammer usually. and gradually loosen the cam carriers as the rockers are just hanging there, nothing holds them in place. i loosen it gradually until i can remove one by hand...like furthest forward to back...then keep track of which one goes where so you can install itin the same place. when reinstalling - hang them with grease all over the tips to hold them in place and carefully install the cam carrier without knocking them off. use Fel Pro Permatorque head gaskets so you don't have to retorque the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 ... but removing the turbo bits is one of my least favorite parts... +1 Before you go ripping into things, you really should check to see if the radiator is plugged. This is a really common issue. You need to be able to safely touch the radiator fins; this is easy if no A/C, but you have to pull a fan if it does have A/C. With the engine warm, place the palm of your hand against the radiator fins and move your hand vertically along the core. You are looking for bands of cool fins amongst the hot ones. Or you can use a non-contact thermometer, but that would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 It should at least get better mileage than my 87 3 speed wagon. I think I'll go over tomorrow and take lots of pictures and start unhooking things so I can get the heads off. I have a non contact thermometer, I'll check the radiator. But there are exhaust pulses coming through the oil filler tube, and smoke/water vapor will come out of the dipstick tube. And exhaust bubbles come through the overflow tank when it gets warmer. I drove it down the driveway and backed it up in it's spot. In the 5 minutes that is was running the temp gauge didn't go up at all. But there was almost no smoke/condensation in the exhaust when it fired up. What all should I start collecting before I want to put it back together? Cam seals, timing belts, maybe a water pump? I don't have a whole lot of kaching to work with, but I'd rather re seal the engine properly so I don't have to do it again in 3 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 A lot of times the temp gauge wont register a correct temp because of a lack of water. Make sure the water is topped off to get a accurate reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 It's topped off with some decent/clean looking coolant. It didn't boil over when I drove it around, and I checked it before and after I drove it. The oil doesn't look bad either. And it shifts like a dream. Where should the friction point be on the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 The clutch should engage lower towards the floor. Chanced are the cable is too tight. too often someone replaces a clutcu, and makes the cable too tight, stretching the pressure plate. find the clutch cable under the hood. back it off if it's too tght. It should lonly be tight enough to take the play out of the fork-that's it. If you are contending with a hill holder, you make the clutch cable ajustment first, then adjust the hill holder. If the hill holder is too tight, the rear brakes will stick after pulling forward from a reverse maneuver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 My 88 n/a 3AT would get around 30MPG. I have never see over 25MPG off of any of my turbos except for one with a 4EAT and a fractured uppipe (couldn't build boost). Clutch adjust is something of a personal preference. You should get some contact by midway, and total lockup 1-3 inches before all the way up. More important is having the proper freeplay with your foot off of the pedal. Don't get too hungup by what you see/feel out of the oil filler. Crankcase "breathing" can be significant, and dirty/old oil can smoke and stink and show water vapor. Coked-up breather nipples in the cam covers and/or pvc valve and hoses can cause even more breathing. The bubbles in the overflow could just be coolant boiling into the overflow. Might also indicate a bad radiator cap. I think that you should go into this with your eyes open, but don't go borrowing trouble that may not be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 If I get a chance tonight, I'll flush the radiator. It could very well be plugged, because the heater doesn't work very well. I was going to change the fluids next time I get a chance to spend some time over there. The owner of the house won't be back till next Sunday, which means I won't be able to use the shop facilities for 2 weeks, I'm in school all week. *sigh* I guess I'll start with the cheap stuff, like oil, fuel stabilizer, and flushing the radiator and heater core. Going down the road, not overheated, the car shudders when you accelerate, but when you let off the throttle all is smooth. Was worse when I first went above 30, but did not go away completely. Possibly a combination of old gas + water/oil in the cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 (edited) Heat from heater would depend on coolant level and whether the heater is plugged. Heater and radiator don't necessarily plug at the same time. Rough running might mean anything in the fuel system and/or ignition system. I have noticed that my EA82Ts have been sensitive to old/marginal plugs and wires, having rpm ranges where it would just fall flat on its face. Once I had a set of plug wires give up the ghost right after I put in injector cleaner into the tank. Lots of possibilities. Edited February 20, 2011 by NorthWet Redundant typo redundancy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryuko91 Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll check out the plugs and change the oil.The wires look pretty new, I don't have my multimeter to check the resistance though. I'll put a new fuel filter under it and get some sea foam in the the tank, too. Now it's dark, and supposed to get pretty cold tonight, so I don't want to let out the antifreeze. Should probably get some on the morrow. and a bucket to drain the old stuff into. Man, if I knew I wasn't going to pick up the car this weekend, I would have driven my wagon. Not having a car sucks. I'd probably have it running decently by now! Maybe I'll be able to borrow my cousin's car tomorrow while they go to Seattle. I'm pretty excited to get this car running right. I can't wait to bring it home! I have to admit, when I started it and it smoked, and then overheated, I was lookin for a Brat that I could take home. I was pretty determined to bring home another Subaru this weekend. I want to start taking apart my wagon. I found a 5 speed GL-10 in the JY. Getting the pedal box and rear disc brakes out of it, and I already nabbed the new looking blue suede seats out of it. Edited February 21, 2011 by Ryuko91 Click happy on the reply button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 grab the maplights as they are brighter. try to get the rubber piece on the door that goes with the mudflaps. the clock and the trip computer are worth grabbing for the usmb, and the l-shaped door handles are bonus; getting rare if you can have at it wioth tis car, grab the swaybars. you can swap the trailing arms disc and all and have the swaybar mounts. if you can get me the swaybar mount shackles and the bushings in the rear, let me know what you want for it, as i am missing those in my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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