What is the correct torque for the rear castle nut after a disc brake sawp? When the original rear drums were installed, it was 36 ft lbs(then the fine adjustment with a spring scale). The fronts are 145 ft lbs but that is different wheel bearing design.

 

In the USRM writeup, it says 145 ft lbs for the rear after a disc brake swap...but that doesnt seem right.

 

Sorry if this is a stupid question. I dont want to toast my wheel bearings.

I just did the rear discs on my car the other day. I would get it as tight as you can with a good size bar and line the holes up. If you dont think you can turn it to the next hole you are done.

We just worked on mine and bheinen looked up the specs in the how to keep your subaru alive book. Its 145lbs.

I am glad its 145 ft lbs because I did the disk swap about 1.5 years ago and I tightened to 145 ft lbs.

 

I was putting on new pads and rotors yestersday, and I wondered if it should be that tight.

 

Thanks.

Did your pads fall apart in pieces like mine did. I didnt order new clips so i didnt use them. The ones that go on the pad not the ones on the caliper so hopfully i wont regret that deciion. It works good though and i dont care what anyone says, the rear disk swap is the best upgrade i ever did on this car. At least you dont need to twist these calipers in to compress them.

I know my advice sounds like poor advice, but trust me, leave the torque wrench in the drawer on this one. All you need is a 2ft breaker bar, a pry bar, a friend, and two nuts on the the lugs so your shakey friend with the pry bar doesn't screw up the threads on the lugs. Turn till you can't turn any more. Take the socket off the lug. Bet me the holes aren't perfectly lined up. Unless, your friend is sasquatch with superhuman streangth, you can't screw this up.

Did your pads fall apart in pieces like mine did. I didnt order new clips so i didnt use them. The ones that go on the pad not the ones on the caliper so hopfully i wont regret that deciion. QUOTE]

 

Mine had the caliper clips, and they seemed to have worked OK.

 

My pads were OK, but when I originially did the conversion I was in a hurry and I threw on used rotors but I didnt get them turned. The rotors were deepy grooved and making nasty noises, so I put on new pads and rotors. I have never had good luck with getting rotors turned. They seem to always warp quickly, so I got new ones and hopefully they will last a while.

I know my advice sounds like poor advice, but trust me, leave the torque wrench in the drawer on this one. All you need is a 2ft breaker bar, a pry bar, a friend, and two nuts on the the lugs so your shakey friend with the pry bar doesn't screw up the threads on the lugs. Turn till you can't turn any more. Take the socket off the lug. Bet me the holes aren't perfectly lined up. Unless, your friend is sasquatch with superhuman streangth, you can't screw this up.

 

I understand what you are saying but trust me, there are certain things you want to make sure are done right. And Wheel nuts are one of them.

36mm socket, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and my 82kg's bouncing up and down on the other end until it doesn't move anymore. This has worked front and rear for me without issues!

 

As for specific torque settings I believe it would be the same as previously posted ~196nM but without a bar that can read that far it's hard to gauge exactly

 

And I agree with the rear disc conversion being the best brake upgrade besides an xt6 or crossbred conversion. IMO its a must before dropping an EJ in!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

make sure the washer is not on backwards