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bubbles in the overflow and oil pump seal


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So I happen to be checking my overflow bottle and noticed it had bubbles.. OK So I went and did my other stuff (change the PCV) and spark plugs and i checked the bottle again.. no bubbles I notice when it happens the level in the bottle gets higher then normal.

 

 

 

 

Could a weak radiator cap cause this?

 

Also I'm 90% sure my front oil pump seal is leaking a bit and the plastic oil separator plate is ready to be changed out. But I should take the oil pump off and check the screws on the back side right?

 

And what is with not being able to find peratex anaerobic in stores? I checked advance auto and auto zone.. my next thing is to just order it online now.

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yeah i've seen them not have the anaerobic as well. NAPA has always had it in stock.

 

bubbles in overflow...that sucks. try the simple stuff - you'll want new caps/thermostats anyways if you end up donig the headgaskets, might as well throw them on there now to see.

 

make sure it's properly burped too.

 

replace the PCV valve, that alleviates crankcase pressure build up and purportedly reduces oil leaks. again -you'll want a new one anyway and they're cheap and easy. i pulled a 2000 EJ25 out last week and it was solidly stuck closed.

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I know someone who's been running an ej25d with bubbles in the tank for well over a year now. It hasn't overheated or gotten worse... With leaky head gaskets it's sort of hit or miss how long it'll last.

I don't like playing that game, so I just replace them. With my luck I'd be in northern Saskatchewan when it blew.

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I'm not so sure if it's totally 100% the headgaskets.. I not 100% sure on how it fails but I had torque running on my phone and looking at my coolant temp around 230 F is when the gauge starts to climb..

 

Ok So that would happen when I was moving slowly and it would go up pretty fast.. BUT when I start moving faster under power the temp went from 230 to 209F in about 10 Seconds.. that sounds like a possible blocked radiator or a funky water pump?

 

From my understanding if it's going to run hot it's not going to keep going up and down.. Also the fluid level in the overflow is not going back into the radiator so I'm going to have to do something about that.

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'97 OBW = EJ25D = Phase 1 engine = Internal HG Leak

 

Bubbles in the overflow tank is a common sign of HG leaks on the Phase I EJ25D engine.

 

My '99 started having the coolant transfer into the overflow bottle and would not return to the rad when cold. I tried a new Subaru rad cap, thermostat and new overflow bottle hose, no change.

 

Best way to confirm HG internal leaks on an EJ25D is to use a chemical block tester or an exhaust gas analyzer to sniff for CO in the coolant (engine has to be running when doing the test).

 

Chemical kits are about $50 or so, NAPA and several online sources have them. Since you have already changed the rad cap and PCV valve, you may want to do this test next to confirm or deny the HG internal leak.

 

Here is a link to some more info on checking for exhaust gases in the coolant:

 

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

 

Here is a link to a kit at NAPA

 

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_7001006_0282477652&An=0

 

Good Luck!

Edited by Mike104
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probably the headgasket, bubbles are never good. but of course rule out other simple stuff first.

 

they usually don't go up and down, but anything is possible and you just got this car right so you know nothing about it's history?

 

if it just started i would not think it's the HG since it's going up and down, but not knowing anything about it, i'd say anything is possible.

 

if it's the radiator it'll be very predictable...heats up while going up hill, cools down while going down hill or coasting...it'll heat up when the demand/load on the engine is higher (more heat generated) and cool down when demand is reduced (less heat generated). it will overheat *more easily* during the day and *less easily* at night just because of lower ambient temperatures.

 

you can remove the radiator and put a hose in it and see how well it's flowing through it. the one i did last summer would not flow the full flow of a garden hose. the new one did.

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If it's not too bad it won't be blowing much exhaust into the coolant, and will cool off at lower loads.

 

When the HGs went in my family's 99obw I was driving. I was going up a hill and it started blowing cold air. Went to turn up the temp, and then noticed the temp gauge near hot. Pulled over and let it cool for a bit, but I knew I was only a few miles from a mechanic, mostly flat ground there too. Started it back up and just drove 15mph on the shoulder, temp stayed just above the middle. So it wasn't so bad yet that it couldn't keep the temp down, but it gets worse.

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I

probably the headgasket, bubbles are never good. but of course rule out other simple stuff first.

 

they usually don't go up and down, but anything is possible and you just got this car right so you know nothing about it's history?

 

if it just started i would not think it's the HG since it's going up and down, but not knowing anything about it, i'd say anything is possible.

 

if it's the radiator it'll be very predictable...heats up while going up hill, cools down while going down hill or coasting...it'll heat up when the demand/load on the engine is higher (more heat generated) and cool down when demand is reduced (less heat generated). it will overheat *more easily* during the day and *less easily* at night just because of lower ambient temperatures.

 

you can remove the radiator and put a hose in it and see how well it's flowing through it. the one i did last summer would not flow the full flow of a garden hose. the new one did.

i

Think this shows it

VIDEO0064.mp4

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I'm not so sure if it's totally 100% the headgaskets.. I not 100% sure on how it fails but I had torque running on my phone and looking at my coolant temp around 230 F is when the gauge starts to climb..

 

Ok So that would happen when I was moving slowly and it would go up pretty fast.. BUT when I start moving faster under power the temp went from 230 to 209F in about 10 Seconds.. that sounds like a possible blocked radiator or a funky water pump?

 

From my understanding if it's going to run hot it's not going to keep going up and down.. Also the fluid level in the overflow is not going back into the radiator so I'm going to have to do something about that.

 

My '96 Lsi displayed very similar symptoms when the HG failed. My theory on why the temp "spikes" then goes back down is as follows: The exhaust gasses start leaking into the water jacket through the compromised seal. The high heat super heats the coolant, causing the temperature "spike". The super heated coolant is forced out of the water jacket causing the coolant gauge to go back down. Just a theory, but replacing the HGs fixed the problem on mine. Have you tried the little blue bottle (or 2) of the subaru coolant conditioner?

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My '96 Lsi displayed very similar symptoms when the HG failed. My theory on why the temp "spikes" then goes back down is as follows: The exhaust gasses start leaking into the water jacket through the compromised seal. The high heat super heats the coolant, causing the temperature "spike". The super heated coolant is forced out of the water jacket causing the coolant gauge to go back down. Just a theory, but replacing the HGs fixed the problem on mine. Have you tried the little blue bottle (or 2) of the subaru coolant conditioner?

 

interesting.. because when I had my 03 Forester XS the only time I seem something like that is when I had some air in the system. As for those bottles no I did not try that since I just plan on replacing the headgaskets anyways.

 

The only thing I can't really try is if hills make it spike or not.. I know yesterday it was pretty warm in the mid 70's.. and I noticed when stopped in traffic the temp would only start to go up when I moved forward slowly and stopped going up when I stopped, BUT when I started moving forward at like 4+ Mph it would go up but then come down pretty rapidly and would stay at normal range.

 

When on the highway it never seen it overheat at all..

 

In the youtube video I posted I was just coming off the highway (not overheated) but the traffic light that puts me on my street is kinda downhill to the light but levels out.

 

Had I thought about it when doing the coolant I would of tested to see if it was blocked or a slow flow in the radiator

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Have you tried the little blue bottle (or 2) of the subaru coolant conditioner?
that only works on the newer SOHC EJ25's with external leaks, it does nothing at all for the older EJ25d's with internal leaks. completely different engines and head gasket failure modes actually, they aren't similar at all technically speaking so that's why that stuff doesn't work.

 

honestly your symptoms 1-3-2-4 are not typical EJ25d headgasket issues. i would suspect a few things - it's a non-typical head gasket failure which would make me concerned that it's a previously repaired engine with aftermarket gaskets or something, or just an odd ball (but i can't stress how rare that is on this motor)....

 

bottom line - your overheating issues do not point to typical EJ25 headgasket failure. but the bubbling sure does.

 

have you looked at the headgaskets yet where to protrude from the block/head mating areas? can you tell if they've been previously replaced?

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Have you tried the little blue bottle (or 2) of the subaru coolant conditioner?
that only works on the newer SOHC EJ25's with external leaks, it does nothing at all for the older EJ25d's with internal leaks. completely different engines and head gasket failure modes actually, they aren't similar at all technically speaking so that's why that stuff doesn't work.

 

honestly your symptoms 1-3-2-4 are not typical EJ25d headgasket issues. i would suspect a few things - it's a non-typical head gasket failure which would make me concerned that it's a previously repaired engine with aftermarket gaskets or something, or just an odd ball (but i can't stress how rare that is on this motor)....

 

bottom line - your overheating issues do not point to typical EJ25 headgasket failure. but the bubbling sure does.

 

have you looked at the headgaskets yet where to protrude from the block/head mating areas? can you tell if they've been previously replaced?

 

crack headed monkey butts that database error!!!

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You know gary the first time I had this happen I looked at the gasket on the top of the motor you can see a bit of the gasket Now I've never held a OEM factory one in my hands but this one on here now it does not seem to look factory.

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After a temp "spike" how is your coolant level in the radiator? My Lsi with similar symptoms seemed to belch out about half of its capacity or so during these episodes.

 

It moved most of it in the overflow bottle and it wont return back to the radiator. but it's never overflowed out of the bottle.

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