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Factory tail light gasket VS Butyl rubber

Featured Replies

Which do you guys think would be better for sealing tail lights to the car?

 

When I got these, the PO said they were sealed with a Factory gasket, and indeed when I pulled them, they had some sort of gasket on them that looked like it was molded exactly to the lights...

 

I was told butyl rubber was best, it was the gasket they sealed windshields with, and windshields dont leak do they? So I decided I would go with Butyl rubber...

 

Whats best? Whats easiest? Ive never used either so Im kinda nervous... I dont want the trunk leaking or the lightbulbs to burn out because water/moisture gets in them.

I called Carr Subaru in Beaverton and the parts man told me such a thing as factory gaskets dont exist for a GL sedan... So I asked about a Loyale and he checked the books and said "Nope, dont exist for them either, come to think of it, I think they have never existed"

 

Car is a 1986 GL Sedan. I will post pictures up sometime in the "what youve done" as they are only in there "Mocked up" right now, not sealed and bolted in.

  • Author

bump... still trying to figure out:

 

A) if its easier/better to use the Butyl rubber or factory gasket

 

B) where do I get said factory gasket (if its better)

if its not:

 

C) What are the best steps for sealing the lights with either material?

not really familiar with the sedans, can you replace the light bulbs without removing the housings?

 

Butyl sealer will be a very good permanent seal if you clean both surfaces that it will be applied to. In order to separate the lights you will need to heat the seal up to remove the light assembly. Clean them with a good adhesive cleaner to clean any adhesive residue(make sure that it is plastic safe first), then use isopropyl alcohol to clean final.

 

I am doing a projector retrofit project on my truck and I am using Butyl seal to reseal the light housings.

 

hope that helps.

 

Ben

  • Author

Sweet that will help :)

 

I actually just switched out the whole housings and I have completely cleaned the car part of the housing (from the previous sealant) and will start on the lights tomorrow. Have to get the 3M adhesive remover (heard great things bout it) and then pick up Butyl Rubber and get going on it...

 

Just want to make sure I wont get any leaks :)

 

Thanks for your reply Tractor Pole!

I have never known of EA82's having gaskets on the lights. On all the wagons I have owned it seemed more that the "Gasket" was just a ring of goo probably dispensed from a caulking tube or something.

  • Author

Yea I dont want to use that stuff... its hell to get off and I do plan on putting this through a paint booth and redoing the 646 on it, so if I can put Butyl rubber on it and basically have it come on and off cleanly that would be awesome :banana:

  • Author

Soo... the only Butyl Rubber I am finding at Autozone, O'Reillys and baxters is a sealant, like black silicone...

 

I dont really want something that messy, I was hoping for something that would just kinda sit in there, and then when I bolted the lights in, they would squish it so it would seal, but then I could take the bolts off and it would come right off...

 

Does such a thing exist? I wanted to use the rubber stuff, not a sealant...

the butyl sealant I have seen in two different forms, a caulking tube and a roll of it separated with contact paper the stuff I was referring to is normally used as windshield adhesive, Permanent installation is the result and heat and/or cutting the sealant area is pretty much the only way to separate.

 

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08612-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B000CQ4AOO/ref=pd_sim_dbs_auto_5

 

http://www.goferauto.com/3mwirorise08.html

 

hope that helps

 

Ben

  • Author

There it is :D

 

Thats what Ive been looking for.

 

Permanent? So when I get my car painted... will they be able to remove it and reapply it or should I just do temporary sealant til I replace it...

 

I wont be repainting for a few years.

I mean permanent like a windshield. you usually have to cut the sealant to get it out. maybe make it less permanent by using a thinner bead? so it covers less surface area? making it easier to pry/cut off.

  • Author

Ill probably use the rolls of stuff because I hate trying to get that adhesive off... I wonder if I use a blow dryer if I can like, melt the old stuff off without damaging anything.

I install windows in steel doors at work every once in a while and use the Butyl Rubber tape. I get a roll at the glass shop that cuts the window. What they have is about a 1/4" wide and either 1/16" or 1/8" thick. I use the 1/16" cause I like to seal both sides of the glass. You should be able to pick it up at any commercial glass shop cheap. If the 2 surfaces are pretty straight, as in no big gap between the metal and tail light use the 1/16" that way not a lot will squish out at installation. It will come off well but some elbow grease will be in order. Make sure to put it where you want it the first time cause you won't be happy trying to reposistion it. I have never used this on a tail light, but I did use it to install the aftermarket sunroof from the upulit in my pickup with no leaks 3 years later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

  • Author

Thanks guys! I will figure out which one Im going to use and see how it works...

 

I have heard good things about the 3M weather tubing... so I might try that, but I like the way these strips look too.

 

Its a long thinking process... Will keep you guys informed!

Try this instead it can be permanent or not depends entirely upon you but it wont leak.

 

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automotive-MMM8578-Strip-Black/dp/B000PEZ1L4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1311649763&sr=1-1

 

Mike

 

Good call, that stuff works great too. It is less permanent, I have used that to install satellite radio antennas through third brake lights and it works great to fill the void that the small cable makes in the gasket material. Over a period of time and heat cycles it will bond very well to the paint and plastic, meaning it will leave residue when it is removed. but nothing a little adhesive remover won't take care of.

 

Ben

Or make one of the contact patches greasy so the sealant won't stick...

  • Author
Good call, that stuff works great too. It is less permanent, I have used that to install satellite radio antennas through third brake lights and it works great to fill the void that the small cable makes in the gasket material. Over a period of time and heat cycles it will bond very well to the paint and plastic, meaning it will leave residue when it is removed. but nothing a little adhesive remover won't take care of.

 

Ben

 

Ill be picking up the 3M adhesive remover.

 

My brother read on a 240sx forum that the goo is often called "dum dum" and the 3M removes "dum dum" like its "chalk on a chalk board"

 

So ill be picking this up to get the old black silicone off and I should have loads left over for if I need to take the tail lights out (for painting).

 

It appears as those these strips are highly recommended. :banana:

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