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running ruff, wierdest issue; explained


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1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo station wagon 5 speed manual full time 4 wheel drive

 

Problem:

dont really what the problem is. we got the engine rebuilt and did the cam timing according to the book where you line up the notches and such. then i did the ignition timing. run super great. then things started deteriorating. i noticed the engine gradually start to lose power, started running really rough, now wont stay running and has no power. checked ignition timing and cam timing about 10 times and found no problems. all notches and marks line up the way they are supposed too and ignition timing is set at (book spec) 20 degrees at 750 rpm.

 

some things i did:

replaced the plugs and wires, and checked all injectors for operation.

 

i found something weird with the fuel injectors. i used a stethoscope and checked that all injectors were operating by listening for the clicking. on the number 3 it seemed like the injector wasnt actuating ( no clicking) tested good when hook up to a battery and flows freely. took a spare injector from a spare intake manifold i have and still runs like crap; injector doesnt actuate. problem in the plug maybe?

 

compression check:

checked all cylinders; each cylinder reads 100; still breaking in engine after rebuild.

 

i feel like i might have been a little misleading here but we did get the car to run, it just runs ruff and the number 3 acts like its not firing at all. pulled the wire while the engine was running and there was no change in idle speed. pulled a different wire and the car almost dies. the only remaining problem i believe is with the number cylinder.

 

 

i just dont get why the engine would run like a million bucks right after the overhaul, then slowly start to go to crap.

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It's probably not the engine or anything you've done.

 

I would be looking at the fuel system - if the fuel pump isn't holding pressure that will produce some interesting issues. Also make sure the filter is new!

 

I'd also check all your vacuum lines and your fuses including those pesky fusible links.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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It's probably not the engine or anything you've done.

 

I would be looking at the fuel system - if the fuel pump isn't holding pressure that will produce some interesting issues. Also make sure the filter is new!

 

I'd also check all your vacuum lines and your fuses including those pesky fusible links.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

 

well, that is one thing i left out. checked all fuses and fusible links. didnt find anything there.

 

would like some help with figuring out how to hook up a pressure gauge so i can check system pressure. i'll check the fuel filter tomorrow, didnt get the chance cause it got dark and dont have good lighting; no room in the shop ect.

 

oh, also did the all so simple listen test for the fuel pump: pump heard and sounds like its going strong. sounds can be just as bad as looks are far as this one word goes: deceiving.

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Is fuel flowing freely through injector rails?

 

whats the easiest way to tell w/o getting blown up?

 

also, its only messing up the number 3 cylinder; which i just dont get. it acts liket the injector is stuck open cause after running the car, i can pull the plug and its wet with fuel; but its sparking too. i pulled the number 3 plug and checked it for spark by turning over with the plug out and i get a very strong looking bright blue spark.

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First off, check the ground on the intake. It's on the right side of the intake where the intake bolts to the head and it should be the bolt under the runner. If the bolt or threads are corroded or you did not get it back on tight, you will get this type of scenario. If that checks out...

 

Then you need to check the injector control circuit, positive side. Since they all share a common ground, it should be good, but this test will tell you if either is bad. Go to radio schmuck and get a small 6 volt light bulb. It needs to be no higher than 6v as the injector pulses are so fast with a lower current, that it'll be hard to see it flashing. Unplug the #3 injector and hook the bulb to the connector, careful to not damage the connector terminals.Start the engine and watch the bulb for pulsing/flashing. If you don't see any, go to next step.

 

Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to ohms and go from the negative terminal on the injector connector to the battery. It should read no higher than 5 ohms. If it reads higher that that or 'OL' then you have a bad ground to that injector. You can either find an fix the problem area or run a separate ground. If the ground tests good, the problem is in the positive (control) side of the circuit. You will do an ohms test from the connector to the appropriate terminal of the ECU. Again, no more than 5 ohms. If you don't find a problem with either circuit, the injector driver in the ECU has crapped out need you'll need to replace the ECU.

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Glad to hear you got the main trouble solved. Have you made sure that #3 injector is working ok now? Also, your compression readings seem low to me even through the rings are breaking in. If I remember correctly, a turbo engine should be around 135lbs.

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Glad to hear you got the main trouble solved. Have you made sure that #3 injector is working ok now? Also, your compression readings seem low to me even through the rings are breaking in. If I remember correctly, a turbo engine should be around 135lbs.

 

why yes in fact. the injector is working now. um, i guess i'll have to redo a compression check now that i have seated the rings and such.

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