hey guys and girls,

 

so i got a 97 outback 2.5 auto with a blown HG for the price of bananas...

 

most of you know i have a 95 lego with a 2.2 auto

 

what is involved swapping the motor from the 95 into the 97? anything i would have to do electrically? i do know mechanically it will be ok

 

also once im done with it, there will be tons of parts up for grabs either free or for a small donation... and a shell of the 95

 

thanks in advance for any info

Plug and play. You do have to swap over the flex plate for the TC.

 

Plug the extra vacuum line.

What he (^^^^) says

You'll need also the power steering bracket, the A/C bracket and, since you already have them, the power steering lines (the ones from the 2.5 will not be supported on the EJ22). I would transfer the canister as well (the 2.2 manifold will have the pipes already)

 

Thank you lmdew for the "plug the extra vacuum line"

swap the flex plates, it needs to match the trans, not the engine.

 

reseal the oil sep plate on the rear of the 95 engine.

 

but no electrical issues of any kind as long as you plug everything back in.

Plug and play. You do have to swap over the flex plate for the TC.

 

Plug the extra vacuum line.

 

 

flex plates arent the same? thats interesting

 

 

which vacuum line needs t be pluged?

the ej25 has a larger torque converter and it holds slightly more ATF so the diameter of the flex plate is larger to match.

 

iirc, the 95 has 2 small vac hose going to the passenger strut tower. at some point, 97 i think, they used a ''y'' to join the 2 hoses and and ran just one to the strut tower. then a hose ran from one to the other on the tower. it doesn't make much sense sitting here writing it, but if you look you will see what i'm talking about.

 

i used the 97 vac hoses and connected them to the correct places on the 95 engine (the ports on the intake didn't change.) and i didn't have to plug anything.

 

the 97 SHOULD still have the charcoal canister up front, near the ABS unit. so no issues there. but if the canister is in the rear, you will have to plug or connect to each other the vac / evap lines on the front of the engine near / under the top radiator hose.

Edited August 11, 201114 yr by johnceggleston

i thought the flex plates were the same.... thats interesting

 

what about the vacuum line what is it for?

the vac lines going to the strut tower, i can't remember off hand some one else will know.

 

the lines going to the charcoal canister are part of the evap system which collects fuel vapor and then releases it into the intake instead of to the outside air.

 

but neither of these are a big deal. i knew next to nothing about this stuff when i started my first swap and i had no problems. i had never pulled an engine but had read several threads about it here.

 

and i think your canister is in the front and that is the same as the 95. so no worries.

 

FYI, do not dis-connect the AC cooling lines from the compressor. just unbolt the bracket from the block and flop it out of the way during removal and install. this save the environment and the re-charging cost. if the car is going to sit for a day in between R&R, i flop it back into place to reduce the stress on the lines.

 

+2 on using the power steering lines from the 95. the the ej25 lines work fine but they do not line up with the support bracket on the 95 intake. and since you have and use the lines from the 95 it will look like stock.

 

i usually dis-connect the axles from the trans (not the hub unless you are swapping them out). you don't have to but it makes it easier to get to the lower trans bolts. i think one side is easier than the other , but is your call.

 

i use old seat belts for a sling / strap to lift the engine, especially if you are parting out the 95. chains just seem harsh when working around small vac lines and wires.

 

i jack the trans up at the front diff drain plug area. this avoids the possibility of denting the trans pan. EDIT: but if the exhaust is still on the car it will be in the way. if you do jack under the pan, use a board or 2 to spread the load across the entire with of the pan, close to the front. (don't forget to unbolt one end of the ''dog bone'' up top at the fire wall, center. i pick up parts car with out an engine recently with a bent dog bone. the guy who pulled the engine either didn't know or didn't care.)

 

if the torque converter comes out of the trans more than about 1/4 inch i would be sure to re-seat it correctly before re-installing the engine. as a matter of fact i always re-seat it. it's not hard to do, search ''torqueconverter'', look for the older threads. the hard part is KNOWING you need to do it. the last 1/4 inch can cost you the oil pump in the trans.

 

the best tool for removing the flex to TC bolts is a flex head socket and open end wrench . one end is an open end wrench and the other end has a socket attached to it. i remove the sensor on the throttle body for better access, most folks don't. but i mark the position on the top and bottom of the mounting bracket so i can reinstall it the EXACT same way. the bracket is designed to allow it to be rotated and adjusted. mark the top and bottom .

Edited August 11, 201114 yr by johnceggleston

thanks guys I'm working on it right now...

good luck!

good luck!

 

thanks... I'm gonna have lots of taupe body parts for your wagon, same color 8)

thanks... I'm gonna have lots of taupe body parts for your wagon, same color 8)

 

lol not any more lol that car got totaled I loved that wagon I got a 97 OB now dark blue and gray

successful swap now onto the AWD binding problem