I have searched a bunch but I have a quick question. Does the tranny share the same fluid as the front differential? Is there a dipstick hidden anywhere like on my 99?

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

just one dipstick and drain plug.

3.5 qts....to answer your next question.

I've tested many Gearbox / Differential Oils in the Past, in many cars and in my Own experience with those, Specially with Older Gearboxes or Diffs, (So to Answer your Next Question) in my Own opinion The Best Gearbox & Differential oil is the one Reinforced with Molybdene:

 

Somehow is the Same Black Grease Base that we use on C.V. Joints:

 

 

 

(Motul 31721L Gearbox 80W-90 Molybdenum Bisulphide

-MoS2- Reinforced Extreme Pressure Gearbox and Differential Lubricant)

 

 

This Shiny Black Oil not only makes Quieter any old Gearbox, it also makes Easier Shifting.

 

Believe me, the Difference is Huge, I Run my Weberized Wagon's 5MT with it since around year 2000 (I usually Change it every three years), also I poured it onto many other Manual Cars with great results.

 

Kind Regards.

You guys are GREAT! Thank you, I'm doing it. For some reason I thought I heard Redline 75W-90NS is the way to go but I am doing the Mozul, thanks again! When cold 1st to second grinds a bit and it is stiff through all the gears, when warm it still feels a little off synchro wise.

Edited November 9, 201114 yr by ubtripn

The tranny and front dif making up one unit makes a lot of things make more sense to me now. I keep finding weird stuff the farther I go like front parking brake mechanisms I played with for 30 minutes before figuring out what they are. I have a scraping sound that is about once per tire revolution so I thought it needed pads. I unbolt the caliper, swing it up and the pads are thick as new but probably from 1990 or sometime. I lubed the one bolt on each caliper but now I think I should have lubed everything the ensure they are fully retracting.

 

Also, I bought the car from 120 miles away, test drove it before handing over the cash and put it in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement (Dumb move I found out later) I put it back into front wheel mode but once it was on the dolly it would leave rubber when we would turn which I caught right away as my friend was pulling the truck around. He had to then back up 20 feet and it seemed to have went away so I hope that snapped it back into front wheel drive only or I towed it 120 miles in 4 wheel drive which cannot be a good thing.

 

Working on these Soobies feels like a cross between working on an an alien spacecraft and a toyota. Definitely a different yet elegant way of doing things engineering wise but the boxer feels more like an aircraft engine to me for some reason.

Edited November 9, 201114 yr by ubtripn

You guys are GREAT! Thank you, I'm doing it. For some reason I thought I heard Redline 75W-90NS is the way to go but I am doing the Mozul, thanks again! When cold 1st to second grinds a bit and it is stiff through all the gears, when warm it still feels a little off synchro wise.

 

 

My 86 wagon has redline in it. I get a little grind when shifting, but the clutch is way too yight, and i think the PP is stretched.

 

That molybdenm stuff looks yummy. I would like to put that in my 3-door restoration(xt6 trans)

I am definitely gonna use it. =)

Here Motul and Liqui-Moly Brands are almost Everywhere, any Car Parts Stores sell them, including our Local Wal-Mart Stores.

 

But I found it online in USA, even at amazon!

I'm getting it!

I'm getting it!

Personally, I've had great success with the Redline 75W90NS. I don't think you could go wrong with either gearoil.

Well I ran out of dough so I used Valvoline, glad I did the job though, the bolt was just a tad more than hand tight and leaking plus is was con-caved or dished and had a metal gray slurry all over it. I am assuming its magnetic.

... I am assuming its magnetic.

 

Yes, it is.

Thanks. That makes sense.