SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 This may sound like a stupid question, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. So, still working on the wheel bearing. I know it's been a long time, but it's cold out and I don't have much free time. I've gotten the lateral link bolt out and pulled the axle. I've got my slide hammer puller plate attached to the lug nuts and got the hammer on it. I read that it takes a couple few shots to get the hub out. I've pounded on that thing with the slide hammer for long enough to sprain my wrist. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Take the knuckle to a shop and have them press out the old and press in the new bearing. You could hammer on it for a week and not get anywhere. BTW I have a trick for removing stuck lateral bolts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=304 This may sound like a stupid question, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. So, still working on the wheel bearing. I know it's been a long time, but it's cold out and I don't have much free time. I've gotten the lateral link bolt out and pulled the axle. I've got my slide hammer puller plate attached to the lug nuts and got the hammer on it. I read that it takes a couple few shots to get the hub out. I've pounded on that thing with the slide hammer for long enough to sprain my wrist. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 I really don't want to do that. I mean, I'll do what I have to to get it done, but I'd like to do as much as I can before I do that. Have any other things I can try before I concede failure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy6four Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 This may sound like a stupid question, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. So, still working on the wheel bearing. I know it's been a long time, but it's cold out and I don't have much free time. I've gotten the lateral link bolt out and pulled the axle. I've got my slide hammer puller plate attached to the lug nuts and got the hammer on it. I read that it takes a couple few shots to get the hub out. I've pounded on that thing with the slide hammer for long enough to sprain my wrist. What am I missing? Have you temporarily re-installed the lateral link bolt? If not, put it back(with some anti-sieze grease) with the axle off to one side. For the slide hammer to work, the hub has to be solidly held still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 I only put it back through the rear link since the end of the bolt is mushroomed from the pounding it took to come out. Maybe it's moving too much...good point. I'll file the end of it and push it back through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I always just beat the hub out with a large impact socket and a 4lb drilling hammer from the back side. If it's really stuck in there you might have to pull the knuckle and press it out. I've had similar problems with axles rusted to hub splines, etc. Needed serious heat and a press. Destroyed the hub, knuckle (probably distorted from the heat), and wheel bearings but we saved the axle . Sometimes sacrifices have to be made. Hard to find good OEM axles with intact boots at the junk yards here - easy to find used knuckles with good bearings (this was a front wheel). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Actually, I got it out today. Just needed lots of pounding. In fact, I didn't think I was making any progress. Far from it, in fact; I was pounding on it purely to vent frustration. I happened to look down and notice that the space between the tone ring and the brake shoe was definitely bigger than I remember. So, I measured it and then gave it ten more whacks. It moved a whole 1/8"! After that, I pounded on it until my hand went numb and it was nearly out. Had my wife give it the last dozen or so whacks and it came out! The bearing even stayed all in the hub, so I dont have to screw around with pulling one of the races off the hub. Hub's in great shape too! Excelsior! Tomorrow I'll replace the bearing and see if I can get away with reusing my lateral link bolt. I may have done too much damage to it. Gotta clean it up with the grinder some and see if the nut will thread on cleanly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 There are 3 seals on my Forester: 2 inner and 1 outer. But it could be different on your Legacy. If you can, I would go with Koyo or NSK bearings. The latter is the OEM supplier to Subaru. For aftermarket seals, you could go with Beck & Arnley. I've had issues with the fitment of Timken seals on my Subaru. Made some progress on the job tonight. Old bearing is out, new one is in. Removing and installing the bearings with the FWD service set is a breeze! Turns out the inboard inner race and rollers were all pitted to hell and even a bit rusted. Looks like the inner and intermediate seals failed and the poor thing got contaminated. Serious case of rug burn... Count me in as someone who's having issues with fitment with Timken seals. The outer seal is fine, the intermediate seal seems fine, though the inner seal is too small. I still have to confirm that I have the right seal, but if it's the "right" one, it's not specced properly. If Beck Arnley seals work for you, maybe I'll pick some up. Advance carries that stuff, if I remember correctly. Man if I'm not really annoyed that I'm being held up by an oil seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Here's an update! It was too damned cold out for me to bother with this (effing) thing until it warmed up a bit. I stopped because I thought I had everything good but ran into a problem with the axle binding against the knuckle when I was done. Seems I didn't drive the hub in quite far enough. Moral of the story there? Use a real metric depth gauge instead of an SAE folding ruler and trying to do the math and guess it. Trouble I'm running into now (and I think before) is that I can't seem to get the innermost seal to drive in all the way. I'm correct in assuming that it is supposed to be flush with the bearing housing, right? Like all the way up against it? Or, is there supposed to be a space? Subaru's bearing install guide has them using a special tool. It looks like the seal should more or less bottom out against the bearing but I'm not sure. The picture in the NASIOC guide isn't clear. I gotta find out. I'm SO close now and I want to get the damned thing out of the garage. Funny that I'm going to finish fixing the winter car up just in time for spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Right up against it, as I recall. I measured all of this stuff as I did it to be sure. Also a good idea to measure the ABS tone ring distance from brake adjuster gear wheel, so you can reinstall it to correct depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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