recently my battery and brake fluid lights have come on.

On the weekend I was driving and the car was running weirdly...idling around 400-500 rpm when at a stop light. Stepped on the gas pedal to increase my RPM and it would barely move past 2000 RPM even when floored.

limped it into a parking lot and it stalled. would not turn over. Tried to jump start it and the car wouldn't start. It would turn twice, then the starter clicked a few times till I stopped. Tried again and the same issue.

 

Let it sit a few hours and was able to start it and drive. Dash lights remained on. Stalled 5 km's later and would not move unless I floored it and popped the clutch where it then lurched forward a bit.

 

Charged the battery and tried again, limped it home but dash lights are on still. Running weird still.

 

Any suggestions what to look at? I don't know if the dash lights (brake fluid and battery) mean anything or is a code for a certain problem.

 

And yes, my brake fluid is full and the battery showed 12.7 V when I tested it after it was charged.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

1992 loyale. standard. 300,000+ km's.

I should add the check engine light is also on, but has been on since I bought the car last Feb. P.O. said there was a short for that light.

Any suggestions what to look at? I don't know if the dash lights (brake fluid and battery) mean anything or is a code for a certain problem.

 

Yes, often that means your alternator is faulty.

 

Don't let your battery go dead too many times or it will ruin the battery too. On older starter batteries even going dead once is usually enough to do them in.

your alternator died. classic symptoms of such. Or you have a loose battery cable.

 

the check engine light is independent of this.

There's a jumper on some connector you can hook up and get it to flash out the code(s) if you want to try to find out why the light is on.

 

P.O. said there was a short for that light./QUOTE]

Maybe.......or there might a reason for it being on.

In addition to checking the above:

 

The charging cable connection at the alternator should be checked and the fusible link between it and the battery.

thanks for the suggestions guys. I will check the fuse and cables before I order a new alternator.

 

I got the haynes manual for these cars, will this describe the procedure for jumping the connector for checking the codes?

I would think the Haynes would have the procedure to get it to flash out the code(s).

 

On the alternators, some of the parts store rebuilt ones are not very reliable.

The codes are listed in the haynes book, but they are in a different chapter than what you think it would be in. It is also posted in the USRM section of the forum (search 'trouble codes')

I would think the Haynes would have the procedure to get it to flash out the code(s).

 

On the alternators, some of the parts store rebuilt ones are not very reliable.

 

 

Where do you suggest buying it from? I live in Victoria, BC so don't have the surplus of auto parts stores like the US.

 

Thanks

search came up with this : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98709&highlight=trouble+codes

 

Where does the loyale fit in?

 

Will it display more than one code (seperate codes by a 10 second delay or something?) or will it only display one code?

 

Thanks!

loyale will go with 1988 and 89 models. 90-94 loyale is the same as a gl, minus standard options(but the harness is there for them) and the only other difference is it has a 'model name' since the legacy came out in 89-90

I got a Bosch rebuilt alternator a few years ago. It works OK. I think Canadian Tire has them? IT was $130, cheapest in Lower Mainland, from Burnaby Autoparts. Try phoning around, CT, NAPA, do you have Lordco on the Island? Sometimes the independents are cheaper, and give better service than the big chains.

 

If there is a automotive electrical specialist in the area, they may give the best service. Yellow pages are great for finding parts locally, better than the internet.

your alternator died. classic symptoms of such. Or you have a loose battery cable.

 

the check engine light is independent of this.

 

Unless I have a freak car, Loyales will run and drive with the battery removed. Don't ask how I know (I found out by accident). Much more likely the alternator or a vacuum problem.

+1 on alternator.

I got a Bosch rebuilt alternator a few years ago. It works OK. I think Canadian Tire has them? IT was $130, cheapest in Lower Mainland, from Burnaby Autoparts. Try phoning around, CT, NAPA, do you have Lordco on the Island? Sometimes the independents are cheaper, and give better service than the big chains.

 

If there is a automotive electrical specialist in the area, they may give the best service. Yellow pages are great for finding parts locally, better than the internet.

 

Thanks, I'll try lordco first then CT.

The warning lights are in series with the field windings of the alternator. They turn on when the alternator isn't running for the test mode because the connection of the lamp lead on the back of the alternator is at ground potential at that time. When the current from the warning lights excites the field and the engine is turned over then the magnetic field builds up in the stator and the rotor and the charging action begins. The field windings also charge up and put out a backfeed on the lamp lead which turns off the warning lights unless there is a problem with the alternator.

Unless I have a freak car, Loyales will run and drive with the battery removed. Don't ask how I know (I found out by accident). Much more likely the alternator or a vacuum problem.

 

Once the vehicle is started, usually yes it will run and drive without the battery connected. It is highly suggested to not disconnect the battery with the vehicle running though. Doing so can allow a voltage spike when the battery is disconnected, a 'large counter EMF' as Subaru calls it.

my alternator has the double belt pulley and the one Canadian tire (cheaper than Lordco) ordered from me has the single pulley.

 

The old alternator pulley bolt is rusted on there pretty good. How can I get the old pulley off to swap onto the new alternator? I could use a screw driver to jam the pulley, but I don't want to wreck the alternator.

 

Or is it better to return the one I have now and get the alternator with the double pulley already installed?

 

Thanks... weather has been crappy so it's been a slow process swapping the old one out

my alternator has the double belt pulley and the one Canadian tire (cheaper than Lordco) ordered from me has the single pulley.

 

The old alternator pulley bolt is rusted on there pretty good. How can I get the old pulley off to swap onto the new alternator? I could use a screw driver to jam the pulley, but I don't want to wreck the alternator.

 

Or is it better to return the one I have now and get the alternator with the double pulley already installed?

 

Thanks... weather has been crappy so it's been a slow process swapping the old one out

 

Was your car utilizing both pulleys on the now-fried alternator? Because I (could be mistaken) have only ever seen single belt pulleys. I just swapped out an alternator on the loyale and the replacement was a double pulley. I was like wtf, but I just used one of them (inner).

Yes theres belts on both, I thought this was common?

I'll take a pic if neccessary

This double pulley is very common on Loyales in Canada, especially if there is no AC.

 

I suspect that the double pulley is used because the geometry of the belts is such that there isn't much "wrap" around the waterpump or main pulleys. The more wrap, the more power can be transferred. If there isn't enough wrap, the belt could slip when trying to transfer maximum power.

 

A single belt works fine at normal speeds, if you go easy on it. I know, as I blew a belt one night, and made it home just fine (100 km @ 100 km/h). It probably wouldn't slip until you try to turn hard (max. load on power steering), with the engine (and waterpump) at maximum speed (max. load on water pump), with all the lights, fans, rear defogger on and the stereo set to 11 (max load on alternator). A single belt may have a shorter life span in general, and given the sensitivity of these engines to cooling system problems, losing a single belt could be bad news, as well as a PITA.

 

Two belts may be belt and suspenders overkill, and it may never give you any trouble to run a single belt, but my preference would be to get the dual pulley alternator and 2 new belts. Subaru did just about everything else on these cars for a good reason (with the exception of the EA82 timing belts!).

 

The pulleys are pressed on, and a pain to get off at home. Trade it in for the right one.

 

Another tip: when you get new belts, make sure they are the same make, not just the equivalent part number. There is enough difference between manufacturers that one belt can be a good bit looser than the other. This is what caused me to lose that belt on a dark, wet night far from home...

Edited December 2, 201114 yr by robm

dang, not the reply I wanted, but very good to know.

I'll return the alternator today and see what the new one costs.

 

thanks! definitely saved me a lot of confusion in the future!