a fellow board member was down saturday, and sat in passanger side while i drove it , noise comes from drivers side rear , or rear for sure , but only 1/4 turn makes a alittle noise, does not matter if brakes are app[lied , already did the 12- 6 methold , new calipers and pads , all were good, greased everything etc.. tom think u- joint / drive shaft ?? any other possible things ?

12-6 method?

 

How many miles.

 

U-joint and drive sgaft are interchangable terms here as the uni's are not servicable for mortals.

 

Is there a clunk from drive to reverse?

 

Did the vibration start at high speed and is slowly working it's way down?

 

Inspect Uni joints for play, but the one way to really tell is to unbolt it and inspect the joints in the rear half of the driveshaft. Check for play or seizing.

 

If it is bad get a used one if not i can tell you who to get a rebuilt from.

noise all the time but at higher speeds , you can hear it, i already jacked up car and grabbed the top and bottom , thinking it might be a wheel bearing, tires are ok shape, not new , could it be a broken belt inside the tire , 126,000 mi a/t

126K is rather early for a driveshaft. or a rear wheel bearing.

 

Rotate the tires on one side front to rear and see if the noise moves. It may be as simple as cupped tires.

 

At what speed does it happen?

 

 

Is there a vibration?

 

You may need to unbolt the rear yoke and makesure the Unis at the rear are good. If not they issue will start to happen sooner over time, but it is usually a vibration more then a noise.

ok on rotate tires, yes a alittle vibation on floor board, but i could not feel it, but other board member could , as far as speed 30- 40 mph, but only 1/4 turn , meaning ,sounds almost like flat spot on tire,

rotate tires and see if it moves.

 

otherwise sounds like a wheel bearing is starting to fail.

 

drive it and put a temp gun to it - and see that side get hotter than the other.

 

i forget when legacy changed to the new style rear suspension set up, but if it's the old style, they loose rear bearings all the time. i've replaced countless.

12-6 method?

 

U-joint and drive sgaft are interchangable terms here as the uni's are not servicable for mortals.

.

 

I'm a mere mortal and I've put new u-joints in several. Main problem is finding a supplier for the replacement joints. That changes every time I look to buy.

 

You just cut the old joints out with a torch. Press out the caps and drill or grind out the stakes. New joints get retained with snap rings and are special made to replace joints in stakes driveshafts.

I'm a mere mortal and I've put new u-joints in several. Main problem is finding a supplier for the replacement joints. That changes every time I look to buy.

Rockford has been selling them for a long time, that's who I always used. I can't recall ever seeing another manufacturer.

thanks, also seems like the rear drivers side caliper goes on real tight, remembering , i have a whole hub new bearing , for a 99 forester will it work or not ?

thanks, also seems like the rear drivers side caliper goes on real tight, remembering , i have a whole hub new bearing , for a 99 forester will it work or not ?

 

you can cross reference parts on car-parts.com or subaru's own opposedforces website - that's the definitive source.

 

if it's the same style - if the Legacy doesn't have the "new" suspension style set up then the forester hub will interchange, the 99 and 2000 Forester has the "old" style hub that will interchange with any EJ from the prior decade, so if the legacy has the same suspension set up it'll swap.

I'm a mere mortal and I've put new u-joints in several. Main problem is finding a supplier for the replacement joints. That changes every time I look to buy.

 

You just cut the old joints out with a torch. Press out the caps and drill or grind out the stakes. New joints get retained with snap rings and are special made to replace joints in stakes driveshafts.

 

 

 

Most people do not have a torch, so you are not a mere mortal, you are a protector of fire

ok on rotate tires, yes a alittle vibation on floor board, but i could not feel it, but other board member could , as far as speed 30- 40 mph, but only 1/4 turn , meaning ,sounds almost like flat spot on tire,

 

It may be as simple as a broken blet in a tire. You said the tires are old. If you rotate and it moves, next step would be to put the spare on and go for a drive and see if it is gone.

I'm a mere mortal and I've put new u-joints in several. Main problem is finding a supplier for the replacement joints. That changes every time I look to buy.

 

You just cut the old joints out with a torch. Press out the caps and drill or grind out the stakes. New joints get retained with snap rings and are special made to replace joints in stakes driveshafts.

 

1. How do you separate the carrier bearing, if you've ever done that?

 

2. On the u-joints, I assume you're using a spider that allows taller caps that have an external snap ring that is inboard the yoke. Is that surface michined flat to properly support the snap ring?

 

3. Do you then balance the shaft?

1. How do you separate the carrier bearing, if you've ever done that?

 

2. On the u-joints, I assume you're using a spider that allows taller caps that have an external snap ring that is inboard the yoke. Is that surface michined flat to properly support the snap ring?

 

3. Do you then balance the shaft?

 

Another reason it is not for mortals. SOme people don't balance them when they do thier own repair, but personally I feel that is a big mistake.

 

On the older roos, I know they used ford ranger universals (I had one rebuilt locally), do not know what they do now. Like i said get a rebuilt or used it is easier.

thanks for all the help, will do the easy simple things first,

1. How do you separate the carrier bearing, if you've ever done that?

i've never done that, there's no need to in order to replace the ujoints.

 

not sure about your second question but yes the Rockford ones have a ring situated on the end caps inside of the yoke, if that helps? they don't come with great directions (or at least the ones i bought did not when i bought them) but i believe i took photos of and posted the pictures of the instructions that come with them, it would have been either here or subaruxt.com.

 

here is rockfords (the ujoints i've used before) current online version:

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm

 

 

"After pressing or pounding the old u-joints out, find an adjustable hand reamer to finish ream the holes in the yokes, then finish by

hand with 600 grit. Makes a big difference. End cap OD is .867, I adjust the reamer to .863-865. Does a great job of cleaning out what metal remains

from the staking.

 

It is a real PITA without a press, but is possible. Just make sure the yoke is supported so your hammer blows dont bend the yoke."

 

3. Do you then balance the shaft?

i haven't and have not noticed a difference. a driveline shop could do that for you if you wanted.

Edited November 29, 201114 yr by grossgary