TheLoyale Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I got stopped by that train in those pics 3 times that day, the same one every time! Conspiracy! You can have that color matched at any Auto paint store, and have it put into Aerosol cans. Most places require you purchase a minimum of 3 cans (Which will probably total $50 or more) Or, just can buy a few cans of Rustolium Semi-gloss black, and repaint the bumper and from the trim line down black. These cars look rather good in two tone. An idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 Alrighty, so I have a friend who said he would sell me his Impreza if I gave him more than what the dealer offered him for trade in. It is altogether in better shape than my legacy. It is not perfect, and will need some brake work. (so does mine.) He said he "thinks" it is the 1.8 liter, it is an automatic, 4 door, blue, and he also said it is front wheel drive. Which one does this sound like? (brighton, ls, l, etc?) Also, do you think he is mistaken on the front wheel drive thing? I didn't think subaru made a fwd Impreza. Anywho its an idea im throwing around, I would have to sell the legacy. Plus, the impreza has a radio! He also just spent $600 dollars getting stuff fixed on it and he said that he doesn't want to fix it anymore after that. (thinking about getting a new car, therefore the "more than trade in offer" thing.) Only thing that bugs me is that its an auto, and if the fwd thing is true. But if you haven't noticed, i do alot of car trading, so maybe eventually I will end up with a 5 speed impreza like I wanted in the first place. Thoughts, suggestions, input will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 oh yes! On the knocking, locking up while turning thing.- I read on another thread that if you go to a parking lot and do 20 tight circles to the right and 20 tight circles to the left it should fix the problem. Well, I did, and it did not fix the problem totally, but it made it much much better. What would that mean was/ is the issue? Seems like a very odd fix. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) Found out from him it is a 1993 L and yes actually fwd. Sounds like I figured it out myself! Any thoughts on the 20 left/ right turn thing? Edited February 27, 2012 by subarulegacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 This sounds like my problem: http://en.allexperts.com/q/Subaru-Repair-831/problem-turning-wheels-awd.htm I do not have the fuse to get to test with the FWD. However, this seems to be repeatedly the same explanation. I checked, all my tires are exactly the same. Or at least it seems, penny test about the same on all. The driver front tire seems "shriveled." Do ya'll agree that it's likely the problem? How can I determine if it is that or a CV axle? I hope this thread is not dead. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Could be torque bind. Have you drained and filled the transmission a few times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nope. What is this term you call "torque bind." Is it what he's talking about in that link? Haven't done anything whatsoever with the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbennett2u Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 pretty much any fuse will do. Put one in (its by the windshield on the passenger side under the hood, and turn tight circles, if it goes away your AWD system is binding. If it is AWD binding, drain and fill the tranny fluid at least 3 times to get all old fluid out. If that doesnt help there are many articles on here about repairing duty C solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbennett2u Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nope. What is this term you call "torque bind." Is it what he's talking about in that link? Haven't done anything whatsoever with the transmission. Lots of subject matter on this. basically it means your AWD system is locking up at all times and not just "as needed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Ok, so I need to get a fuse and see if the problem goes away. Then if it does, drain + refill tranny a few times. (um. . . does this forum have a search button, because I sure can't find it! I would like to read up on "torque bind" I always have to google "USMB whateverimsearchingfor" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Look up to your Right (Next to New Posts) that is a search bar. Here is a Search I did for ya, maybe some of this will help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1462429 If the Duty-C is failing, you will get a bucking sensation while driving straight (As both front and rear diffs are trying to engage while on solid ground (Non slick surface) so there if there is no slippage, the axles are binding causing a bucking, noises, shaking etc.. The Fuse is a 15amp (Blue) if you stick a lesser AMP fuse in there, it might not take the load and blow anyway. You could probably stick a 10AMP fuse in there if you have one handy. (There are spares in the Fuse box under the dash) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) Ok thanks very much for helping me find the "search." DUH I just could not see it though! Em, after using the "search" a little bit, I am still confused. It just seems to me like bad CV axle and torque bind have essentially the same symptoms. The car does not thud or buck when going straight generally. EXCEPT (always an exception) 2 times after taking a turn which caused the locking up there was a large THUD which shook the car once I got going straight again and had traveled no more than a yard. It is not continuos. The couple time it happened was right after a turn. So, my understanding is that if the fwd fixes it, torque bind. If not, cv axle,or something else? Correcto? Spares in fuse box under dash. . THANKS never would have known, I found 1 that didn't work in the glove box. Edited March 1, 2012 by subarulegacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 That would be my assumption, unless there is an issue with the front diff, perhaps a carriage house bearing axle stub bearing. But yeah, a bum Axle could cause some strange habits. Could also be a messed up brake grabbing at wrong times (Might want to check the brakes out) this car might have Drum in the rear, possible return spring broke, so the shoe is flopping around and getting hung up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 OK, nice day outside, so I decided to spend some "quality time" with the car. Put a 15fuse in the FWD thing. I was under the assumption that a FWD light would come on. Well, it didn't. Tried a couple fuses just to make sure that's not the issue. Just to make sure, i drove it around and it still locks up. THEN, I got under the car to look at the oil issue. Oh that is depressing. It seems more like a question of where it isn't leaking than where it is. Valve cover gasket: yep- there was a single drip of oil coming out rather slowly. Oil pan gasket: i don't know, but its covered in oil+dirt, covered. Not just duh dirty car, its bad. Oil was leaking rather quickly from various pieces of metal that come under the engine (pool up on metal, leak over). Basically lots of gummed up+ fresh leaking oil anywhere behind oil pan. Even the transmission, run your hand across the bottom of it, it will come back red. Actual discovery: im not a mechanic, so i don't know what it is called. Perhaps someone can fill me in. Im assuming its has something to do with the steering. Bar that runs from left wheel to right wheel. Has 2 boots. 1 of the boots is torn+ spewed grease everywhere. So basically right now I=:mad::mad::mad::mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) [ Edited March 1, 2012 by subarulegacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Um no you don't...I am surprised no one has chimed in on this part. It is very doable with some know how and some basic tools. Who ever is telling you all this crap is feeding you a line and is trying to put a steak on their plate instead of just a hamburger. And the popping noise could very well be ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, sway bay end links, worn out compliance bushings, or other bushings. Not saying it is all of these at the same time, just some possibilities. Way over on page 2. Um sway bar end links? How could that cause it? Soo many possibilities I don't know what to do now. Also, looking at that oil pan, I don't know how anyone could get that thing off without movin SOMETHING out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 The oil leak could look worse then it really is, Most likely it is the Valve Covers and Oil pan which are leaking, then it blows all over from driving, and makes everything wet. Transmission pans are sealed with Fujibond (RTV style Sealant) so you could drop the pan whenever and reseal it with RTV Black (High-Heat Oil resistant) Same goes for the Oil pan, but that involves jacking the motor up to get at the rear most bolts. Valve cover gaskets are easy. As for the Steering rod thing, there is a Tie-Rod on each side of the car, the inner rod screws into the power steering rack, the inner rod has the Boot since there is a Balljoint inside which needs to pivot. The end that bolts to the wheel hub is your outer Rod, that screws to the inner rod and that is also how you adjust wheel Toe alignment. There is also a Balljoint on the outer end (Where it meets the hub) Having ripped Tierod boots are not a big deal, as long as there is no play in the joint, you are safe. If there is play, it is only a matter of time before it fails, jamming the wheel backwards and having no steering control on that side. As for the FWD, that is surprising. All I can say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Forget about it, ima just paint the engine with this- :lol::lol:Ok seriously, Valve cover gaskets I think I could take care of. Oil pan gasket, i don't know. If i have to jack the engine up, that'll take i bit of thinking because of course I don't have anything to do that. "As for the FWD, that is surprising. All I can say." LOL this IS coming from the guy that couldn't find the search button. But, i'm pretty sure I know how to do something that simple. Steering rod- give me a bit. I need to do a bit of "searching" to understand what you are saying there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Steering rod- give me a bit. I need to do a bit of "searching" to understand what you are saying there. Search for 'steering rack boots', that should get you closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 (edited) Ok, so there is the "steering rack" and a tie rod attached to each end of it. The tie rods have a tie rod end and "inner tire rod" Do I have this right? I drive this car all of the time. It is not unusual for me to put 100 miles on it in a day. I get up to 70 on a daily basis. It sounds like I need to check some things here pretty quick because losing steering doesn't sound pleasant. Edited March 1, 2012 by subarulegacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Yes, you have the steering rack assembly understood To check the condition of your inner or outer Tie rods, Leave the car on the ground, Grab the wheel and try to turn it Left/Right, If there is not any type of play (And you'll feel it move if there is) then you are ok. A Tie Rod will give you some warning before it completely breaks, it will be come loose/slopping feeling in the steering (Not as responsive as usual) Just keep in mind, the only thing holding your where straight is a solid steal shaft about 5/8" with a Ball welded to it which sits in a steal cup (Know as a Balljoint) amazing how durable they are considering the forces applied when you hit a curb or pot hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Heres an exploded cut-away view of a Balljoint. Here is a Balljoint in the shape of an Outer Tie-Rod. Here is a Complete Tie-Rod Assembly, Inner and Outer Rods. Complete Steering Rack and Pinion Style. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 ^^yes that does help. Thank you. Also kind of scary. . . I will do that check on the give of the wheels asap. just have to mention this,because im extremely excited. Through my school I have acces to on online database of every chiltons book ever written AND the "AARC." It has information on almost every car since 1956. Oh yes! this will be useful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 OK I will do that check asap.just have to mention this,because im extremely excited. Through my school I have acces to on online database of every chiltons book ever written AND the "AARC." It has information on almost every car since 1956. Oh yes! this will be useful! Chiltons are good books, just double check their Torque Specs, as sometimes they are inaccurate. (At least with the Head bolt Torque) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegacy Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 How much of that sealant you think it'll take for those 2 things? I'm getting ready to order some. Only seems to come in 3oz tubes. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330716247&sr=8-1 Yep. . . i buy everything online, almost always cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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