i had a thought, now keep in mind that doesn't happen often.. i want a lift but i also dont want a lift. and i have an ea82 so.. that doesnt work. i was thinking 4 inch lift (minus the subframe/rear diff lowering) with adjustable coil over sleeves and the upgraded rear shocks from a 4runner.. if memory serves the coil over sleeves make it sit like 2-4 inches below stock so with that logic a 4 inch lift would make it sit at stock or 2 over. with almost like a long travel kit. i can imagine it would handle better.. ive got some christmas money and a few days off.. so i thought give it a shot. i could be lifted by newyears. the problem is i cant remember what model honda the coil overs come from. that and i figured id bounce this off some peoples heads.

Edited December 23, 201114 yr by AKghandi

so with that logic a 4 inch lift would make it sit at stock or 2 over. with almost like a long travel kit.

 

If you're getting +4 inches from the lift kit (solid blocks), and -2 to -4 inches from the coil overs, wouldn't you have LESS suspension travel than stock?

Are you trying to gain more ground clearance or more suspension travel?

 

You should calculate how much of a lift you want by what size tires you want to run. More often, one does a lift to create clearance in the fenders for taller tires and not just to lift the body higher.

He wants a lift he can lower for the street.

Honestly having 2 cars would be simpler.

Ah. Hm. Again, depends on if you want to run bigger tires. Dunno if yours still has it, but my '87 GLW has a couple of bolts under the front spring that let me adjust it up and down a bit. But sounds like you want an airbag setup.

 

Or... Just keep two sets of tires. One set that barely fits in your fenders, and then a set of stock 175/70r13's.

 

So what your describing is to perform a typical lift with strut and body blocks, but to then attach adjustable coilovers so that you could lower it back down easier. Could work, however you'd be losing an assload of suspension travel. And it'd depend on if you want to run bigger tires or not.

So what your describing is to perform a typical lift with strut and body blocks, but to then attach adjustable coilovers so that you could lower it back down easier.

 

Not quite... he said:

"i was thinking 4 inch lift (minus the subframe/rear diff lowering)"

in the first post.

Now here's a thought....

The coil over springs are about the same size (diameter) as rear springs. You could add the sleeves and perches with stock rear springs to gain height...

And you'd be able to lower it back to (almost) stock.

 

Just lift, change wheels and hit the trail...

Edited December 24, 201114 yr by zukiru

Not quite... he said:

"i was thinking 4 inch lift (minus the subframe/rear diff lowering)"

in the first post.

 

Yeah, but you can only do a 2" lift without lifting body and diff, or else you risk grenading your CVs.

 

The problem with doing a spring adjustment to gain height instead of blocking the struts is that your susp becomes very stiff and you lose travel. And that would also create articulation issues in a car with already bad articulation

 

However, since most ea82s had adjustable front springs, you could just rig up something similar in the back.

Would love a pic of these adjustable front springs....

I have only had xts so I have never seen them.. Sounds neat.

Yeah, but you can only do a 2" lift without lifting body and diff, or else you risk grenading your CVs.

 

He's not doing a 4" total lift though, the end result is only 0-2" lift.

 

Quote:

"if memory serves the coil over sleeves make it sit like 2-4 inches below stock so with that logic a 4 inch lift would make it sit at stock or 2 over."

 

So it's a 4 inch lift from the strut spacers, and a 2 to 4 inch drop from the coil overs. So the net result is a vehicle which is somewhere between stock height and +2 inches, but I believe with less suspension travel.

 

 

I'm still not sure why you would want to go this route...

Edited December 24, 201114 yr by Red92

... the upgraded rear shocks from a 4runner. ... the problem is i cant remember what model honda the coil overs come from...

 

Here you have my Old Writeup about that:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546

 

Kind Regards.

well everyone thanks for the input. and to answer your questions i wanna do it because im going to make a rally sleeper from the outside it will look and sound like a regular wagon till i hit a cut out. i deliver pizzas and want to get into rally and since i only have one car i thought id make the best of both worlds. because im prolly never going to take it on any trails that a stock legacy couldnt handle... but heres the plan.- full time dual range out of an rx and matching rear diff w/rear ebrake. 4 inch lift blocks and coil overs(all together it will cost maybe 120 more than a 2 inch lift) rear sway bar simple front and rear bumpers with a winch and some 5 inch hid lights, full under body skid plate(front-back heavy yes, but worth it) stock 85 subaru alloys. or maybe a 5 lug swap with basic rims, nice clean body nice interior. and some kind of turbo ej or build the ea82.. but mostlikely the ej swap. and probably a roll cage..

Edited December 24, 201114 yr by AKghandi

the name will be white noise. because it will be completely unassuming. you wont notice it till i want you to. like at the start of a race...muahaha

oh and i mean longer down travel... it might see some air. hence the stiffer springs and the upgraded rear shocks

Exactly, all you get is less travel. And the wording is confusing. The only way this would make sense is to either just throw on the adjustable coilovers and only lift it 2" with those, or for 4" treat it as a normal lift with body blocks and strut brackets, but then have adjustable coilovers.

 

The main point is that if you're going past 2" you must lift body and diff.