Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Ej20g gl-10 problems code 11

Featured Replies

So I've been slowly chasing down problems in my ej20g swap. This last one is sorta stumping me. The computer flashes code 11 and won't leave limp mode. It won't rev easily,I've replaced the cam and crank from a junkyard car both measuring within spec on my ohm meter, I just checked the timing belt again and it appears to be correct. Does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing this hesitation and limp mode? I'm gonna roatate the engine tomorrow and read the ac voltage, but that's about the last thing I can think to do.

Edited by Turboturd

I'm coming up with a crank sensor/harness issue. Check the connector where it plugs into the harness, check the wiring with an ohm meter from the pigtail where the sensor plugs in to the ecu plug. Also check all your grounds to make sure they're tight.

  • Author

I'll check the harness tomorrow and make sure it's all good at least from the cam and crank. Is the only ground for these harness' the engine ground? I have that pretty well covered as it has a ground going from that straight to the battery. Is here no specific grounds for the ecu itself?

The actual ECU and associated sensor grounds are always on the manifold itself. But you still need a good path from there to the body and from the body to the battery negative.

 

With swapped cars it's pretty hard to troubleshoot over the internet. Most people that aren't prepared to drag out the o-scope if something isn't right with a swap probably shouldn't be doing one.

 

GD

  • Author
The actual ECU and associated sensor grounds are always on the manifold itself. But you still need a good path from there to the body and from the body to the battery negative.

 

With swapped cars it's pretty hard to troubleshoot over the internet. Most people that aren't prepared to drag out the o-scope if something isn't right with a swap probably shouldn't be doing one.

 

GD

 

 

Trust me when I tell you I've gone through the grounds, there's a ground from the battery to body, intake manifold, and starter mount. I'm still gonna keep checking grounds, but so far all the sensors I've checked have very good grounds and I understand how hard helping over the Internet is. I understand your assumptionins with me not using an o-scope yet, but I was really hoping it was something I have been overlooking. I've been working on this for a while, so I start to overthink the smallest problems. I'll check the outputs and see what I find, thanks.

Edited by Turboturd

  • Author

Yeah I connected it to what my Haynes manual says is the vss, I haven't driven it since I have connected it, so I have no idea if it is connected correctly. Would the vss affect running at idle? Thanks for all the help btw.

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.